Places near Ocala/Belleview for sending unit

Can anybody recommend a place near Ocala or Belleview sells fuel sending units at a reasonable cost? The only place I can find near me is GM, and I have only priced them online and haven't seen them for less than 75. I heard I could find them less than 50. Thanks for the help.

Replies

  • SouldeepSouldeep Posts: 269 Officer
    The only place I can think of is Miller's on north 441, I have found some really good deals there believe it or not. You might have better luck in Citrus Co, Homosassa marine, West, the surplus place on Grover Clevland, that's all i've got...
    Pro Line 251 - 225 Optimax
    Fisher 1754 - 60 Merc

    2 boats is 2 to many and at least 1 shy of enough
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    most marine places should have one i would think!
  • LineDriveLineDrive Posts: 136 Officer
    I'll probably try Miller's. Weekends is the only time I have to grab stuff, little tough to get to places before closing time during the week. Hawk, saw you lived in Hernando, that's the only reason I didn't ask after all the help you had given me already. Enjoy the weekend, fellas!
  • Fishin RodFishin Rod Posts: 2,620 Captain
    Did you test your old sending unit? If so can you tell me the procedure? I'm having fuel gauge/sending unit problems on my A/C and need to get it repaired.
    "Be what you is"....... Isaiah Minter
  • Doc StressorDoc Stressor Homosassa, FLPosts: 2,433 Captain
    From my useful info collection:
    American senders are about 230 ohms at low and 30 ohms at high (full).

    If you disconnect the wire from the sender to the gauge (it may be pink) the gauge should read empty. If you now take the wire from the gauge and ground it, the gauge should read full. If nothing happens or the readings are intermittent, you need to find where that wire connects at the gauge and do the same tests, no connection to the gauge and grounded. If the gauge doesn't react properly it is bad OR the battery connection is bad/intermittent. To check that you need to measure the voltage to the meter and wiggle things (connections) to see if it fluctuates.

    http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/230281-how-do-you-test-fuel-gauge-vs-sending-unit.html
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    the procedure is pretty easy to find on google, using a multimeter set it to test resistance (ohms, the little headphone looking icon) touch one lead to the spade connector that leads to the gauge and the other lead to the body or whereever the ground screw hooks to it. while moving the sending lever arm the resistance should change. i dont remember exact values but they are pretty much irrelevant. if the values change as you are moving the arm then the sending unit should be working. if it stays constant or just read a "1" then it is bad
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    dang it, doc replied as i was typing out my reply!!
  • Fishin RodFishin Rod Posts: 2,620 Captain
    Thanks for the quick replies, I'll give it a shot today.
    "Be what you is"....... Isaiah Minter
  • LineDriveLineDrive Posts: 136 Officer
    Let me know how it goes. Hawk helped me out a ton, and I got it fixed in no time. One thing I think they left off. Check the gauge first, and if it moves, check all wires. If you have to get a new sending unit, just connect the wires and test it before you install. For me, that just verified I didn't overlook anything. Got a Teleflex sending unit at West Marine for about 40 bucks after tax. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  • Fishin RodFishin Rod Posts: 2,620 Captain
    Well I tested the sending unit and it seems to be working. At least according to the test meter. When I turn my key on, the gauge goes to full and I cannot make it move when I adjust the float on the sending unit? Turn the key off and it goes back to empty. There are (9) wires going to the back of the gauge and this throws me for a loop.
    "Be what you is"....... Isaiah Minter
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    The back of the gauge should have four terminals one marked s for the sending unit, one marked I or + for an ignition controlled power supply and one marked gnd or - for the ground and one marked L for the lights. It is common to have jumpers from gauge to gauge which would mean two wires on every terminal except s. that only gives you 7 though. What are you seeing on yours??

    Feel free to give me a call...

    David
    225 978 6749
  • Fishin RodFishin Rod Posts: 2,620 Captain
    I know I had one that jumped to the tach, is that just a light wire for both?
    "Be what you is"....... Isaiah Minter
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    could be light, power or ground...

    the standard color for lights is blue wire, power red and ground black if that helps
  • Fishin RodFishin Rod Posts: 2,620 Captain
    Well after quite a bit of head scratching and cussing I found my problem to be the fuel gauge. It was grounding out internally and when I turned the key on it would jump to full. I went to my favorite repair shop, Suwannee Shores Marine in Fanning Springs and they had a complete package, sending unit and gauge, for $49.95 so I replaced them both. Installed and everything works fine now. Thanks for all the help Hawk.
    "Be what you is"....... Isaiah Minter
  • Hawk232Hawk232 Posts: 327 Officer
    no prob, glad you got it working!!
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