Rust Removal

Alvin AAlvin A Posts: 315 Deckhand
What is the best product for rust stain removal ???
Weld-Craft 1656 Tunnel, Yamaha F70, Garmin 547xs.

Replies

  • SCFD rtrd.SCFD rtrd. Posts: 1,369 Officer
    I use "Rust-Aid". From Home Depot, about $8 per gallon. It's also great for removing tanic stains from your hull. I delete it 50/50 with water. It will etch aluminum or galvanized trailers, so wet the trailer if you're gonna use it on the hull.
  • Anonymous2Anonymous2 Posts: 1,964 Officer
    I've heard for small areas ( bleeding screw heads ), Barkeepers Friend and a soft toothbrush does the job. Any thoughts?
  • Mango ManMango Man Posts: 11,057 AG
    Splashmob wrote: »
    I've heard for small areas ( bleeding screw heads ), Barkeepers Friend and a soft toothbrush does the job. Any thoughts?
    Yep, the amount of scrubbing depends on how bad the rust is.


    America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.
    Abraham Lincoln
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    Starbrite Stain remover. Spray and walk away. Coat the metal when your done to delay the return. Stainless either needs air to stop it from rusting or needs to be sealed.
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • Anonymous2Anonymous2 Posts: 1,964 Officer
    Passivation
    This process is recommended where the surface must be free of iron. The presence of any iron, cast iron, mild steel, carbon steel or low alloy steel particles on the surface of stainless steel will promote pitting corrosion at the cells set up between the "free" iron and stainless steel. This potentially very serious (and certainly unsightly) problem most often occurs due to contamination by scraping with carbon steel tools or fixtures, or from grinding swarf. Passivation also aids in the rapid development of the passive surface layer on the steel.

    Stainless screws pick up free iron from the driver bit used to install them. The above paragraph is from an article online I thought I'd share. Obviously, we can't passivate screws that are already in there location, but regular cleaning with a acid based cleanser (Oxalic Acid as contained in bar keepers friend) will keep those stains from getting worse and ruining the head of the screw.
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    If they "electropolished" screws like they do with a lot of hardware it would be better too. ;)
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • Anonymous2Anonymous2 Posts: 1,964 Officer
    This is true. Generally, screws , even if this is what the poster was wanting to remove rust stains from, are of a generic hardware that wasn't, but should be,a thing of beauty. On the other hand, they should be of a 304 or 316 stainless not 410. But, the cost diferance is huge so 410 gets used. Below is a snip from the article online.

    Electropolishing
    Electropolishing is an electrochemical process which brightens the steel surface by selective dissolution of the high points - it is the opposite of electroplating, and is carried out with similar equipment.

    The process is able to produce a very attractive and hygienic finish, but trials should first be conducted to determine the optimum prior surface condition and polishing parameters. Electropolishing of some surfaces results in a frosted rather than smooth finish.
  • Anonymous2Anonymous2 Posts: 1,964 Officer
    And if you use a screw driver on the electroplated part, it takes on free iron, and that is what it rusting. It's a viscous cycle. :/
  • PattonC222PattonC222 Posts: 286 Officer
    Mango Man wrote: »
    Yep, the amount of scrubbing depends on how bad the rust is.

    Be careful with the Barkeepers, it will take the shine away real quick if you get aggressive with it.
  • T TopT Top Posts: 3,706 Captain
    Rust Wink, we get it at Publix, wipe/spray on rinse off 5 min later. EZPZ
  • BoatelectronicguyBoatelectronicguy Posts: 48 Deckhand
    T Top wrote: »
    Rust Wink, we get it at Publix, wipe/spray on rinse off 5 min later. EZPZ

    2nd vote for Wink.
  • Renagade69Renagade69 Posts: 1,228 Officer
    I use spotless stainless to clean the rust off my boat ss.
    Hells Bay Estero Bay Boat and Hells Bay Marquesas
  • Key LimeKey Lime Posts: 360 Officer
    A lot of good suggestions thus far. I use FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover) with good success. West and others carry it.
  • 001001 Posts: 4,292 Captain
    Sandblasting, a grinder, wire wheel. All will work.
  • BillatstarbriteBillatstarbrite Posts: 511 Officer
    Star brite Rust Stain Remover to eliminate the oxidation, followed by a coat of Premium Marine Polish with PTEF to seal it to help prevent future oxidation.
  • schmaltz~herringschmaltz~herring Posts: 206 Officer
    I'm thinking that when I replace some rusted parts I will spray clear coat on them to delay or eliminate the rusting.
  • polepositionpoleposition Posts: 1,052 Officer
    Splashmob is spot on. Stainless is best cleaned through passivation. That frees the surface of the iron and allows the chromium to re-oxidize. The oxidizing of the chromium (which must be in concentrations of 10.5% or greater in the stainless, is actually what creates the anti-corrosive properties of the stainless. I use a product called spotless stainless:
    http://www.spotlessstainless.com/

    While it is best to remove the hardware for best results, it does work very well in places where that is not possible like exposed screw heads etc.

    I have no connection whatsoever to the company. What I have learned is that passivation can best be done with either nitric acid or citric acid derivatives. The citric acid approach seems most popular with the PHDs, but there is some debate...spotless stainless is citric. While other acids will clean rust stains effectively, they can actually accelerate the "re-rust" process.
  • SCFD rtrd.SCFD rtrd. Posts: 1,369 Officer
    Am I missing something??? Did the OP ever say what was rusting or what he was trying to remove rust from?
  • FLDXTFLDXT Posts: 2,486 Captain
    CLR seems to work for me, no problems yet.
  • polepositionpoleposition Posts: 1,052 Officer
    SCFD rtrd. wrote: »
    Am I missing something??? Did the OP ever say what was rusting or what he was trying to remove rust from?

    True that. If it is simple rust on the gelcote, the Starbrite followed by wax. I went down the road I did because the stains on the deck are usually the symptom, the rusting stainless the disease...usually, not always.
  • woo woowoo woo Posts: 66 Deckhand
    Sno-bowl toilet clearer works great
  • BillatstarbriteBillatstarbrite Posts: 511 Officer
    Star brite Rust Stain Remover will eliminate the surface oxidation (rust). Spray it on, let it work, then use a medium brush to agitate the surface if needed. Follow by sealing the cleaned surface with a good polymer polish to keep it clean and help prevent future oxidation.
  • FlatoutventuresFlatoutventures Posts: 224 Officer
    Splashmob is spot on. Stainless is best cleaned through passivation. That frees the surface of the iron and allows the chromium to re-oxidize. The oxidizing of the chromium (which must be in concentrations of 10.5% or greater in the stainless, is actually what creates the anti-corrosive properties of the stainless. I use a product called spotless stainless:
    http://www.spotlessstainless.com/

    Interesting stuff. Just ordered some.
    While it is best to remove the hardware for best results, it does work very well in places where that is not possible like exposed screw heads etc.

    I have no connection whatsoever to the company. What I have learned is that passivation can best be done with either nitric acid or citric acid derivatives. The citric acid approach seems most popular with the PHDs, but there is some debate...spotless stainless is citric. While other acids will clean rust stains effectively, they can actually accelerate the "re-rust" process.


    Interesting stuff. Just ordered some to give it a try.
  • aflatsnutaflatsnut Posts: 89 Deckhand
    Been using a product called Snow Cap, get it at Ace Hardware. It comes in a powder, mix with water, pour it on and watch the rust vanish. It has citric acid and other things in it and does not seem to burn my hands. Will also take rust stains off the driveway or house from lawn sprinkler.

    Bob
  • nuclearfishnnuclearfishn Posts: 8,353 Admiral
    I use good old muratic acid. let sit for 30-60 seconds then wash off. if you get it on your gel coat you have to re-wax that area.
  • JasnomJasnom Posts: 18 Greenhorn
    1) Mary kate on & off hull cleaner is our best seller
    2) Whink
    3) SLX
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