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Saltwater Trolling Motor Lifespan

For those of you who fish every week using a trolling motor, how many years have you gotten out of your motor? Mine is 5.5 years old now, a Minnkota Riptide, and has performed great since day one but it has corroded deeply on the motor housing where contact is made when raising and stowing the motor. I doubt it will make it beyond another year or two max. I always rinsed it well and have repainted it once and now put a little grease on the corroded area to slow down the inevitable. Any advice here guys?

Replies

  • OkgolferOkgolfer Posts: 36 Deckhand
    4 years old. Have always rinsed. Gave up on sanding,painting,inhibitors, long ago. Probably because it lives outside. Sometimes it even turns on slow by itself. When it stops working I’ll try to fix it. If I cannot I will buy a new one. I feel I’ve gotten my moneys worth out of it. A little les streamlined now but better camouflaged. Bonnethead sharks seem to be very attracted to it and I’ve hooked lots of slot reds(and overs) within 3 feet of a whirling prop. Also trout, snook and jacks. I might paint my new one rust colored after this passes away.
  • GettnreddyGettnreddy Posts: 85 Deckhand
    After a rinsing, let it dry and spray it down with corrosion block. I have done every time with good success. I let it dry in the deployed positition and even remove the prop. Mine doesn't get heavy use as we do not fish daily. This has definitely helped mine though.
  • FlecFlec Posts: 705 Officer
    After a rinsing, let it dry and spray it down with corrosion block. I have done every time with good success. I let it dry in the deployed positition and even remove the prop. Mine doesn't get heavy use as we do not fish daily. This has definitely helped mine though.
    So how old is your motor now?
  • FlecFlec Posts: 705 Officer
    Too bad they can't make the motor housing out of the same composite material that the shaft is made of. They guaranty those shafts for life!
  • rehartlinerehartline Posts: 808 Officer
    At this point I would scrape off the rough stuff, go to Home Depot and get some the rust converter or neutralizer, then some epoxy paint. 
  • GettnreddyGettnreddy Posts: 85 Deckhand
    Going on 3rd year Flec.
  • duckmanJRduckmanJR Posts: 20,928 AG
    Both my motorguides look like that..... Next new one I get...I think I am going to pay the guy to spray Line - X on the lower unit and see if that doesn't seal that motor housing permanently.
    There are many roads to travel
    Many things to do.
    Knots to be unraveled
    'fore the darkness falls on you
  • duckmanJRduckmanJR Posts: 20,928 AG
    Both my motorguides look like that..... Next new one I get...I think I am going to pay the guy to spray Line - X on the lower unit and see if that doesn't seal that motor housing permanently.
    There are many roads to travel
    Many things to do.
    Knots to be unraveled
    'fore the darkness falls on you
  • bluewater_feverbluewater_fever Posts: 143 Deckhand
    I've owned 2 minkota riptides and 2 endura. The rip tide ones only lasted like 3 yrs so each before the seal is lost and water gets inside. I think they didn't last as long as they should because I ran them with a wore out prop that was unbalanced. Mine did not rust like the photo. I currently have an endura but I converted the head unit over to the riptide controls. I think I've been using the endura for 4yrs now in salt water.
  • RemoRemo Posts: 73 Deckhand
    I get any where from 1 to  3 years.  Last one, still ran, motor rusted completely, started losing power, made just  under three years.  Current one, 6 months and control switch is already in failure mode.  Have to consider that I run mine 6 to 8 hours every trip times 60 plus trips per year.
  • FlecFlec Posts: 705 Officer
    Well mine will be 6 years old this coming January and it is only half as bad as the photo from Okgolfer, so I guess I shouldn't be to disappointed. I guess I will be forking out another $900 soon. I am still using the same age deep cycle battery too going on 6 years old. It is a Walmart battery. I fish 52 times a year. And now that I am at least temporarily retired, I am fishing twice a week sometimes. Thanks China Virus.
  • The Cat's EyeThe Cat's Eye Posts: 1,481 Officer

    My saltwater transom mount is going on 21 years. I covered the motor housing with a special anti rust grease that is used by the oil industry on offshore oil rigs. It’s not available any longer to the general public. I also oil the "O" ring often on the prop shaft so it doesn't get "melted" to the shaft when stored in hot weather. IMO most trolling motors fail when water gets pass this O ring and I think this probably occurs before the motor housing fails due to rust. I also cover the entire transom, engine, and trolling motor with a thick tarp to keep everything dry when not in use. 


    Giimoozaabi
  • baccaracbaccarac Posts: 107 Deckhand
    I have a Hewes Redfisher and have had quite a few riptide‘s on it in the last 15 years. Your riptide has a warranty on the housing and normally start showing well before the end of the warranty. They will warrantee a new lower unit because of the corrosion. This only works one timeSince you’ll probably be out of warranty by the time you need a second unit due to corrosion. So what I’ve done in the past have slightly sanded down the lower unit and then used Ospho which is a rust neutralizer. Primed and painted it put a topcoat of industrial Enamel. I believe going through this process creates a barrier actually accelerates the deterioration of the lower unit. I think it’s best just to try to wash it and take care of it each time you go out and put no product on it that will seal in the unit. I fish about 90 days a year and I’ve had one now for about 2 1/2 years after I got my warranty and we’re still good with not too bad of rust showing. Oh and by the way I own a painting company.
  • The Cat's EyeThe Cat's Eye Posts: 1,481 Officer
    edited September 26 #15
    You could paint a rusted housing with POR 15. . This paint was developed to be applied directly on rust, no primer needed. It will adhere to the rust like no other coating to the point that it is very difficult to remove.  It will dry ROCK hard. I use this paint on grapple anchors i make out of rebar.  the paint doesn't even chip off the prongs when they bend. Plus the rebar has shown very little rust after seven years on two anchors i have made. I use PVC tubing for the body and fast drying cement to fix the rebar into the tube. Bending rebar can easily be accomplished without the use of a bending table or tool, but that is for another time. Store unused POR 15 in your frig and it will keep for years in a glass jar sealed with silicone. (Its not cheap)
    Giimoozaabi
  • FlecFlec Posts: 705 Officer
    Why don't they make the motor housing out of aluminum like the lower units of outboard motors? Outboard lower unit housings and skegs never rust. They might corrode and pit, but no rust. The trolling motors must be some kind of steel. Crazy! My goal on my next one will be to make that thing last 10 years like I expect of my OB. 
  • duckmanJRduckmanJR Posts: 20,928 AG
    Flec said:
    Why don't they make the motor housing out of aluminum like the lower units of outboard motors? Outboard lower unit housings and skegs never rust. They might corrode and pit, but no rust. The trolling motors must be some kind of steel. Crazy! My goal on my next one will be to make that thing last 10 years like I expect of my OB. 
    Because the part of the housing that rusts...is where the magnet and windings are and has to be ferrous metal...or so I am told.
    There are many roads to travel
    Many things to do.
    Knots to be unraveled
    'fore the darkness falls on you
  • GettnreddyGettnreddy Posts: 85 Deckhand
    duckmanJR said:
    Flec said:
    Why don't they make the motor housing out of aluminum like the lower units of outboard motors? Outboard lower unit housings and skegs never rust. They might corrode and pit, but no rust. The trolling motors must be some kind of steel. Crazy! My goal on my next one will be to make that thing last 10 years like I expect of my OB. 
    Because the part of the housing that rusts...is where the magnet and windings are and has to be ferrous metal...or so I am told.
    The magnets are usually glued to the housing. Which at that point should be able to be glued to any other type of material for the housing
  • ric1ric1 Posts: 156 Deckhand
    I have an Ulterra. Going on 3 years on a boat in a lift over saltwater. Not only rinse well after every use, but whenever I'm out on the dock I give it a quick splash with the hose. So far, so good.  No signs of rust anywhere. 
    Of course now that I've said that,  will probably fall apart tomorrow,  lol.
    Instead of giving your children everything you didn't have, teach them everything you didn't know. I promise their future will turn out better! :wink
  • bcnucsbcnucs Ponce Inlet, FlPosts: 35 Deckhand
    2nd on the POR.  But I would get all the rust off and prime it really rally good.   Never seen one that bad ever.  
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