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trailer wiring

pechypechy BbiPosts: 1 Greenhorn
Any one know a mobile trailer wiring guy near BOYNTON 

Replies

  • 10kman10kman Posts: 632 Officer
       Pechy,love that name,its not that hard once you buy the kit.But when
    you do it,make sure no lights or connections are in the water.Buy the
    pvc poles that do that.
  • RobertRRobertR Posts: 304 Deckhand
    I'm more than 200 miles north of you and not a repair guy..but I have done my own a few times..So I did a quick search... I googled "Boynton mobile trailer repair" and a place with a mobile truck  called Trailer worx came up but they have a Royal Palm Beach address. You might call a trailer supply store and they will know a guy or two..
  • MelbourneMarkMelbourneMark Posts: 2,157 Captain
    I do not know of anyone in that area.

    but, Its pretty simple to do.  We can walk you through it if you wish.  It should take about 30min total.  All you need is some wire strippers/crimpers to do the work. 
  • stc1993stc1993 Albany, GA Carrabelle, FLPosts: 7,180 Admiral
    Make sure they use marine grade wire or it won't last long.
  • Soda PopinskiSoda Popinski GrovelandPosts: 12,457 AG
    stc1993 said:
    Make sure they use marine grade wire or it won't last long.
    Rewired my trailer with an extension cord over a year ago, 2nd one i've wired this way.  Dedicated ground, tougher wire and tougher casing around the wire.   Works perfectly.   Lights mounted on the guide on posts, no connections ever under water.   Took about an hour including mounting the lights
    You don't need fun to have alcohol
  • 1outlaw1outlaw Naples FLPosts: 1,288 Officer
    Buy this and be done with it https://krakenwiring.com/
    Jason :USA
  • gandrfabgandrfab Posts: 21,685 AG
    1outlaw said:
    Buy this and be done with it https://krakenwiring.com/
    The price for trailer lights hardware alone is a little off for us po folks. 
  • gogittumgogittum SW New MexicoPosts: 393 Deckhand
    Kraken wants $400 for a single axle kit, then you still gotta wire it ??  Mercy - bring 'em over here and I'll do them all day for $300 each and I'll supply the materials.

    Something I've found that makes a big difference - don't use the in-line crimp terminals, where a wire goes in each end and you crimp them separately.  They hold the water in and corrode badly.  I like to use the little translucent "hats" where you twist the wire ends together and put them both into the cap, then crimp it solid - both wires together inside the cap - and don't mash it to where you split the plastic.  Then fill it with silicone - and wiggle the wires around some to make sure the silicone coats everything thoroughly.  Those'll last a long time. 

    Yes, mount them up on the pvc.  I've used many of the potted solid state lights and within months of being frequently dunked half of them will be dead.  Regular bulbs don't last at all.
  • mattb78mattb78 Posts: 219 Deckhand
    2x on the PVC poles, get the connections out of the water and that really saves them.

    Secondly, buy the butt splices that are waterproof/resistant, they work better than just regular cheapo splices we all have lying around.

    Thirdly, heat shrink the connections. Get a good torch not a lighter and the correct size heat shrink.

    Its more work thats for sure. But it prevents the cursing and sweating at 5 am when you are about to pull out and see a trailer light not working and have to MacGyver it.
  • FishingpervertFishingpervert Deltona, FloridaPosts: 1,010 Officer
    edited March 27 #11
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,794 Captain
    If you do the wiring job yourself, here's the basics.... The standard wiring with most trailers is only 18ga - I use 16ga (one size larger and barely a few cents more per foot...)and make sure it's proper tinned copper wiring for any possible saltwater use... Never, repeat never, use standard copper wiring around the water.... Both Ancor and Pacer have really good quality adhesive lined wiring connectors... Use the proper heat shrunk adhesive lined connectors and your connections will be water proof....

    Standard wiring colors as as follows.... White is your ground, brown wires are for all your running lights, yellow is for brake and turn signals on the road side of the trailer (driver's side when hooked up), green is for the curbside brake and turn lights.

    For all of your marine wiring needs, soup to nuts, check out Pacer Group for really top quality supplies....

    Hope this helps, aren't boats fun?
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • MelbourneMarkMelbourneMark Posts: 2,157 Captain
    stc1993 said:
    Make sure they use marine grade wire or it won't last long.
    Rewired my trailer with an extension cord over a year ago, 2nd one i've wired this way.  Dedicated ground, tougher wire and tougher casing around the wire.   Works perfectly.   Lights mounted on the guide on posts, no connections ever under water.   Took about an hour including mounting the lights

    I used an old extension cord as well years ago.  I had the lights mounted on pvc guide ons.  None of the connections were underwater at any time, but I used heat shrink anyways.  Those lights and wiring gave me ~8years of trouble free use before the trailer rusted away. 

    The dedicated 3rd ground wire is the key. 
  • pottydocpottydoc The thriving metropolis of Umatilla Posts: 3,865 Captain
    stc1993 said:
    Make sure they use marine grade wire or it won't last long.
    Rewired my trailer with an extension cord over a year ago, 2nd one i've wired this way.  Dedicated ground, tougher wire and tougher casing around the wire.   Works perfectly.   Lights mounted on the guide on posts, no connections ever under water.   Took about an hour including mounting the lights
    This
  • 1outlaw1outlaw Naples FLPosts: 1,288 Officer
    gandrfab said:
    1outlaw said:
    Buy this and be done with it https://krakenwiring.com/
    The price for trailer lights hardware alone is a little off for us po folks. 
    The owner of Kracken posted here https://forums.floridasportsman.com/discussion/253817/trailer-lights-tricks-to-keep-working#latest On how to do it yourself and do it right... I did as he recommended and couldnt be happier with the results!
    Jason :USA
  • Gary SGary S Posts: 2,036 Captain
    Personally I believe in the dry launch lights. They are open on the bottom so the housing is totally sealed. When you back them into the water air in the housing prevents water from entering. The bulb and socket slide out the bottom and all connections are kept dry. I do coat everything with grease before I slide back in place. I also don't like led trailer lights, I don't think they are worth the extra money. I see too many going down the road with half the leds out.
  • gandrfabgandrfab Posts: 21,685 AG
    My lights go on a 8' piece of aluminum angle that I tie, clamp, strap to whatever I'm towing. 
    Run the loomed wires on top of the boat or what ever I'm towing and plug it in, GTG.
    If the trailer needs to be dunked the lights go in the truck bed.  ezpz
  • finbullyfinbully Posts: 748 Officer
    Dielectric grease is your friend slopped in all connections.
  • FletchFletch Merritt Island, FLPosts: 2,455 Moderator
    edited February 22 #19
    Gary S said:
    Personally I believe in the dry launch lights. They are open on the bottom so the housing is totally sealed. When you back them into the water air in the housing prevents water from entering. The bulb and socket slide out the bottom and all connections are kept dry. I do coat everything with grease before I slide back in place. I also don't like led trailer lights, I don't think they are worth the extra money. I see too many going down the road with half the leds out.
    I have been maintaining many trailers for quite a few years now. These are the best, in my opinion, of the ones that get dunked in water. And, when they do eventually fail (and they ALL will at some point), these are the quickest and easiest to replace. My second choice would be an extension cord with all connections and lights above water using heat shrink connectors and heat shrink tubing over the heat shrink connectors. 

    90 percent of the problems I encounter are related to a bad ground. I go way oversized on the ground connection from truck to trailer and even have short, super-heavy cables with clamps on each end as "emergency" ground straps. In a pinch, I've even used jumper cables to establish a good truck-to-trailer ground.
    "Ninety percent I'll spend on good times, women and Irish whiskey. The other ten percent, I'll probably waste..."
    -- Tug McGraw on getting a raise

    Get Down Fishing Charters - Port Canaveral, Florida
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