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Aluminum Corrosion

MissedMissed O-townPosts: 537 Officer
I have a 98 Lowe and it is all pitted up from corrosion.

Looking at Mirrocraft and Lund - anyone know about corrosion issues on either brand from salt water?

Replies

  • FishingpervertFishingpervert Deltona, FloridaPosts: 1,010 Officer
    edited March 2020 #2
  • SaltygatorvetSaltygatorvet TallahasseePosts: 5,807 Admiral
    Pressure treated wood on the trailer wont help 
    You should have been here yesterday
  • MissedMissed O-townPosts: 537 Officer
    Thanks, guys.

    I saw a thing about aluminum boats needing to be painted to meet warranties.

    The corrosion I have on the Lowe is under paint, get a blister and "whalla!" got a hole.  Thankfully it is on the upper side of the water line.  Been putting JB weld on them with success.

    Did not know we could put anodes on aluminum and will look into that.

    Did know not to use pressure treated wood if replacing a transom or floor in aluminum boats, did not think about trailer bunks.
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 4,455 Captain
    Remember as well that dissimilar metals together in the salt will always cause electrolysis  problems... That's why you use a nylon (or similar material) washer when using stainless fasteners onto an aluminum hull... so that the two metals aren't in direct contact...

    One other small point - be very, very careful with electrical wiring around any aluminum hull since the slightest stray current (leakage, etc. from older or improperly installed wiring) can turn all your electrolysis prevention efforts non-effective...   Some years ago I found and did a complete restoration on an old SeaCraft - including new everything from wiring to fuel systems, etc.  After a few years my fuel gauge quit on me and I didn't bother to do much about it at all.. When I sold the boat the new buyer reported that that my fuel tank (only in place about five years, part of the restoration...) was badly pin-holed and leaking...  Seems that the wire to the sending unit had broken away and was laying on top of the tank - under a screwed down hatch where  you couldn't see it... and had caused serious electrolysis, ruining a forty gallon aluminum fuel tank....

    Just another of those "ask me how I know moments"....
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • gandrfabgandrfab Posts: 21,646 AG
    Pressure treated wood on the trailer wont help 
    Same is true with parking it on carpeted bunks.

    tef-gel for all your SS to aluminum hardware, plastic washers and the such used to isolate dissimilar metals will ware out. 
    Do not use the hull as an electrical circuit in anyway. 
    While paint when the prep work was done correctly can be great many times it was not properly prepped as you see with premature bubbling and creep. 
  • MissedMissed O-townPosts: 537 Officer
    Thanks guys. 

    I actually have some of those plastic slip covers for the bunks - buddy got them and we were gonna rebuild a diff trailer...  Will make sure my next rig has them installed.

    It seems like most of my corrosion issues are in the transom.  The manufacturer (Lowe) probably put marine plywood in the transom - the corrosion holes are mostly above the water line and on the inside and outside of the boat.  That would make sense.
  • bicyclistbicyclist FlardaPosts: 1,654 Captain
    A buddies aluminum pitted out and got holes due to the tannins in oak leaves that piled up under the floor boards. My old boat pitted along the bunkers because the previous owner had them carpeted and they held salt water even cleaning.
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