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Manual Jackplate or not 17 ft AC

DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
Hey all, I am new to the forum and just purchased my first Action Craft.  It's a 1989 17.5 Bayrunner.  I am currently re-powering it and have a manual (pro-Hijacker) jackplate not being used in my garage.  The Motor being used is a 1997 Johnson 115 60 degree v4 (roughly 315 lbs)  the boat has a stainless steel cavitation plate and those non-powered (on shock things-non adjustable on the fly) trim tabs, will have 4 batteries in back (trolling and regular)

Should I use the Jackplate?   It will give me 6" setback.  Not worried about top speed.  I will be fishing shallow with a buddy only using one baitwell.  Concern will be that the weight leveraged further rear will reduce, not help my shallow water ability.  What improvements/tradeoffs can I expect.

Thanks,
Dave



Replies

  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    Oh, one more important bit.  It has a 4 blade prop (not sure of the pitch and diameter as I am not at home)
  • oaksoaks Posts: 105 Deckhand
    I own the same boat as you with a 130 yamaha. 3 batteries in the back and the 6" CMC jack plate.
    You will most definitely need operable trim tabs to keep the bow down during holeshot....
    It will run skinny enough to get you in trouble if you have to come off throttle for any reason. Low water pick up is a must for best use, pay attention to your water pressure..... 
  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    I don't believe there is a water pressure sending unit on my motor.  What is needed to monitor water pressure?

    Did you find that the jackplate reduced your floating (fishing) draft?
  • kmagnusskmagnuss Posts: 3,237 Captain
    edited January 2019 #5
    The good thing about the setback of a jack plate is that it allows you to keep the normal position of your motor a few inches higher.  It's due to the level of the water rising after the hull... the further the motor is back the higher the motor can be mounted (to a point).  This usually offsets the increased rearward tilt of the engine from the jack plate.
    Since you already have the plate I'd stick it on.
    I used to have that same boat... 89' 17 foot bayrunner with the smart tabs it sounds like you have... great boat.
    Tarpon... everything else is just bait.
    Captain Keith - Crooked Rod Charters
  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    Thanks for the reply. Figured the planing draft would benefit, just wasn't sure if the motor raised draft would suffer.  Sounds like it isn't a concern. 

    I am on a budget, do you feel the smart tabs are "good enough" for popping onto a plane? Oaks seems to think I will need the real thing. I haven't had the boat on the water yet.

    Nice to hear!  Maybe it was your boat at one time...any chance you live in cape coral Ft. Myers? Would love to know the history.  Who Knows..stranger things..
  • oaksoaks Posts: 105 Deckhand
    The 6" set back didnt affect the draft too much at all, if any..
    I'm not saying you "need" operable tabs, only suggesting you'll get better response from the boat with them.
    Run the heck out of that thing and enjoy it, they are great boats! 
  • kmagnusskmagnuss Posts: 3,237 Captain
    I had that 17' Bayrunner pre and post Smart tabs... they made a huge difference getting up on plane.  You may know this already but they're adjustable also so that they don't hurt your top speed as much, while still giving you a good holeshot.  My last two Action Crafts have had the adjustable Lenco hydraulic tabs, and they're nice to be able to adjust on the fly, especially when the boat isn't weighted evenly or you're trying to cut across a crosswind... but honestly other than that the smart tabs are fantastic in my opinion.
    I bought the boat from Captain Dan Medina out of Cape Coral almost 10 years ago, then sold it to a retired police officer (just the hull) probably 6 or so years ago.  It's possible that it's the same boat... post some pictures of it. 
    Tarpon... everything else is just bait.
    Captain Keith - Crooked Rod Charters
  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    Great info.  Thanks guys!

    Keith,  Sounds like you have been pretty loyal to Action craft (had at least 3) ., good to hear.  I usually hire a guide a couple times a year to improve my fishing skills and the last one had a pre qui-dri AC.  I was impressed, which is why I bought this one . 
    What is the best way to know when the smart tab actuators are getting weak.  Mine don't have as much back-pressure as I would expect.

    I will eventually get around to taking some photos.  I make my living as a photographer yet I almost never take photos for myself. lol.

  • kmagnusskmagnuss Posts: 3,237 Captain
    Yes, 3 AC's... love them.  Build quality is fantastic, they ride nice, shallow running but good in chop.  I've had the qui dri hull on my 1720 and my 2020 is pre-qui-dri... honestly I can't tell a difference in hull slap or dry.  The qui-dri looks cool though, I'll give it that.
    If you don't feel like the tabs take much pressure to release, try putting the pin in a further from the hull and see if that helps.  I think there's 5 slots to choose from.
    Tarpon... everything else is just bait.
    Captain Keith - Crooked Rod Charters
  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    edited February 2019 #11
    Keith,
    Turns out I do have your old boat!  I saw your old thread when you were selling your boat  FL-3339...

    I did get a chance to water test for the first time this past weekend (used the jack plate) and it was awesome!  Pretty certain the tab actuators are toast as they push up very easily, but she accelerated like a mad dog with that 4 blade. New ones are ordered. Another  irony is,  I saw your jackplate question from about 5 years ago and you had the exact same questions I had.

    A couple of questions.  What was the hole on the front starboard side of the hull into the main deck  used for?  Some sort of removable livewell drain?
       Also, How was your baitwell rigged?   See Photo.  The aerator that was plumbed on the inside side (the one that goes into the storage area (black)) isn't currently connected to anything. The sureflow is connected directly to the pump outlet &  I assume the one out the side is the flow out (overflow) and the bottom is the drain(as you can see a standard drain plug fits in.  My guess would be that I could tee the pump to fill both fittings (with a valve to control water out the black one).  I would then tee the drain with shut off valve to the plugged input fitting on the pump for recirculating.  Anyone else reading this please chime in with your suggestions as well.  Tank will hold Pilchards on most trips. Another option (probably how it was used) is to leave everything as is (cap off the black fitting), and not worry about recirculating.  I am a fishing novice.  How often would I need to recirculate in Ft. Myers,FL (Blue Green Algae Capital of the World)? Would it be worth the added complexity?

    Your replacement fuel tank is a 24 gallon.  What was your cruising range with the 90hp?. when you pulled the cap to replace it, how did the boat look inside(wood)  (I know, what a scary question!!) Sorry for all the questions, but the person I bought it from spoke limited english and I am not bilingual.

    I plan to give it a slight makeover and will post some photos once I do.

  • DaveparmDaveparm Posts: 7 Greenhorn
    Another tidbit on baitwells.  Saltstrong  mentions of pilchard fish droppings becoming more toxic as they are ground up by the pump and recirculated creating high acid content.   Would a bubbler be the way to go with the existing setup (Black fitting plugged)
  • kmagnusskmagnuss Posts: 3,237 Captain
    Daveparm said:
    Keith,
    Turns out I do have your old boat!  I saw your old thread when you were selling your boat  FL-3339...

    I did get a chance to water test for the first time this past weekend (used the jack plate) and it was awesome!  Pretty certain the tab actuators are toast as they push up very easily, but she accelerated like a mad dog with that 4 blade. New ones are ordered. Another  irony is,  I saw your jackplate question from about 5 years ago and you had the exact same questions I had.

    A couple of questions.  What was the hole on the front starboard side of the hull into the main deck  used for?  Some sort of removable livewell drain?
       Also, How was your baitwell rigged?   See Photo.  The aerator that was plumbed on the inside side (the one that goes into the storage area (black)) isn't currently connected to anything. The sureflow is connected directly to the pump outlet &  I assume the one out the side is the flow out (overflow) and the bottom is the drain(as you can see a standard drain plug fits in.  My guess would be that I could tee the pump to fill both fittings (with a valve to control water out the black one).  I would then tee the drain with shut off valve to the plugged input fitting on the pump for recirculating.  Anyone else reading this please chime in with your suggestions as well.  Tank will hold Pilchards on most trips. Another option (probably how it was used) is to leave everything as is (cap off the black fitting), and not worry about recirculating.  I am a fishing novice.  How often would I need to recirculate in Ft. Myers,FL (Blue Green Algae Capital of the World)? Would it be worth the added complexity?

    Your replacement fuel tank is a 24 gallon.  What was your cruising range with the 90hp?. when you pulled the cap to replace it, how did the boat look inside(wood)  (I know, what a scary question!!) Sorry for all the questions, but the person I bought it from spoke limited english and I am not bilingual.

    I plan to give it a slight makeover and will post some photos once I do.

    Haha that's awesome!
    The hole in the hull was used for the drain for the livewell.  The previous owner had a big livewell tank set up in the front of the boat.  You used to be able to see the tie down marks from where it was.

    As far as the livewell system I used... I didn't.  I was never much of a live bait fisherman so I didn't mess with it at all.

    Personally I don't mess with recirculators... you have an infinite supply of fresh water available... may as well use it.

    The hull/stringers looked great in there.

    Range?  I have zero idea.  The 90 was pretty darn efficient.  If I had to guess I'd say it was in the neighborhood of 100 miles or so but probably closer to 130'ish.

    Yeah whoever you bought it from isn't who I sold it to.  My guy was a retired police officer... from Cape Coral if I remember correctly.  He bought the hull from me (no engine).

    Any other questions feel free to ask.
    -Mag

    Tarpon... everything else is just bait.
    Captain Keith - Crooked Rod Charters
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