Replies

• Garza Blanca Posts: 106 Deckhand

  March 2018 #2

  If you have room you need a "house" battery for everything that is running when the engine isn't. I use dual purpose batteries with a combiner and only have tabs connected to the starting battery.

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• capt louie citrus countyPosts: 10,770 Moderator

  March 2018 #3

  Jumper cables. Had to use them on my skiff last month. Just to jump start off the TM battery. How many cranking amps on main ?  BTW , I use dual purpose on my main.

  "You'll get your weather"

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• 10kman Posts: 902 Officer

  March 2018 #4

   You may need to spend the money for a Oydessy
  battery.Where I fish,10K area that motor better
  start because you might not see a boat for
  another day!

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• finbully Posts: 882 Officer

  March 2018 #5

  Have you had your alternator checked on the motor?

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• Alan1631 Posts: 13 Deckhand

  March 2018 #6

  I use Deka AGM batteries.  The big ones.  It is a group 31 battery.  This month Sam's has them for $20 off and I think they are normally about $180.  I also use a Stealth 1 charger that charges all the batteries on the fly including my TM batteries up front.  Great charger but expensive.  The other alternative is one of those power pack type units that you can jump with.  I agree with Garza - two batteries and a battery switch just to be safe.  I run all the same gear as you and my pumps are 1100 gph.  Never had a problem.  I normally use the battery switch and switch about mid day after making any sort of run with the big motor.  That way I know I have plenty to get me home.

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• Alan1631 Posts: 13 Deckhand

  March 2018 #7

  Forgot to mention.  The Deka's have a Duracell label but are the exact same battery.  BP has uses the exact battery with their house label.  As long as it is made by East Penn and is an AGM, it is the right battery.

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• vs-MA21 Posts: 43 Greenhorn

  March 2018 #8

  finbully said:

  Have you had your alternator checked on the motor?

  
  I have not... Is that something I can do on my own?

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• The Cat's Eye Posts: 1,670 Captain

  March 2018 #9

  I don't trust load tests but use a hydrometer on each cell 24 hrs after a full charge.
  
  i bought a new battery for my Honda once at Walmart. After charging it to full capacity it barely started the car. I then removed it and installed the old battery that was four years old.  it cranked the engine better than the new one. i went back to Walmart and they insisted the battery tested GOOD on their load test. I had to fight for a refund  by arguing that if the battery tested perfect they can sell it to another sucker.  Then i told them i was leaving the battery with them and contesting the charge with Visa. Then they gave me a refund. 

  Giimoozaabi

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• finbully Posts: 882 Officer

  March 2018 #10

  vs-MA21 said:

  finbully said:

  Have you had your alternator checked on the motor?

  
  I have not... Is that something I can do on my own?

  
  With a mulit-meter yes. An inexpensive multi-meter is around $30. If you don't have one about any boat engine shop should be able to do it for you.

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• vs-MA21 Posts: 43 Greenhorn

  March 2018 #11

  Hey guys I went out to mess around on the boat for an hour or two today... Boat fired right as it usually does on the first turn of the key. I planned on just running the boat a little bit and throwing some soft plastics... (No livewell use). Volts were pretty good at about 12.-12.9 while ideling through the canal with the Simrad running. Trolled (with trolling motor) a shoreline for about an hour and left the Simrad on, finished that shoreline and started the boat no problem... Volts were in the 11's then krept up to 12.8/9. Then when ideling back through my canal to the lift I decided to try the livewells, volts dropped to low 11's on my guage and high 10's/low 11's displayed on the Simrad voltsupply.... Hmmm so I looked down in the bilge and took the pictures below, do you guys think this could be the problem?? Also a picture of my battery.

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• Alex from GA Posts: 1,683 Captain

  March 2018 #12

  The battery voltage will read low when the stuff is running.  After you turn everything off what does the voltage say?  Are those connectors melted?  If so I would reconnect them by soldering and heat shrinking.

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• Saltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer

  March 2018 #13

  Those connectors look like they were installed using the wrong tool. Which broke the plastic cover when it was crimped. Personally it sounds like the outboard is running on the same battery as the trolling motor. But that in many cases not matter.  You need to have the outboard checked to see if it is charging and is the starter dragging once it get's hot. After you run the boat for a while so that it get to normal operating temperature. Stop and turn it off. give it 5 minutes and try to start it. It should turn over just like it did the first time. Check all the battery connections too. A set of battery cables or a jump box is a good idea.

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• Slough S.w. Ga./ St. JamesPosts: 5,701 Admiral

  March 2018 #14

  With engine running and all usual equipment on. The charging system should maintain 12 volts. If not, bad charging system or you are pulling more amps than charging system is designed for.

  I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you

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• Alan1631 Posts: 13 Deckhand

  March 2018 #15

  Looks like they may have overheated and melted.  Do you have filter before the pumps?  If not, check the pump motors for debris or fishing lines.  I would recommend checking the pumps on the bench.You should replace each of these connectors.  I use the 3M bullet styel connectors.  They make it easy to swap pumps when on the water.  Nothing worse than spending time catching pilchards to watch them die due to pump issues.  Make sure you use a ratcheting crimper and take care not to melt the connectors when heating for the shrink.  Use a heat gun.  You can get a crimper and heat gun at Harbor F.  They are cheap.  Been using mine for years without any problem.

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• lvitch72 Lake mary floridaPosts: 4 Greenhorn

  December 2018 #16

  I run 3 dual purpose batteries ( 2 trolling, one main / cranking). my main switch is rigged so If i kill my main battery I can switch over and draw off one of the trolling batteries to crank the motor. If I'm running the trolling motor hard, I can also use the same setting to partially charge one of the trolling batteries with the motor. works great. It was the alternative to running a 4th house battery ( plus install, wiring, weight, and a bigger charger).   

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• Alan1631 Posts: 13 Deckhand

  December 2018 #17

  That 24M7 battery is not a deep cycle battery.  If you going to run livewell pumps (my 1100 gph pumps draw 3.3 amps each), you need to use a dual purpose battery.  I use the DEKA 31 series (8A31DTM) with no problems.  It has the same CCA for starting as your current battery. I can run my two pumps all day and have no problems starting the motor.
  
  I agree with Ivitch72 for the setup to save you another battery. 
  
  The DEKA 31 will take a larger battery tray and has both screw terminals and posts.  I get mine from Sam's.  They are normally 180, but through Dec 24, they are $25 off at 155.  I normally get 3-4 years on my battery with normal use (3-5 days a month).

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• swampmonster Posts: 345 Deckhand

  December 2018 #18

  Also check the Perko because they do get corrosion problems. 

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• wayvis FloridaPosts: 170 Deckhand

  December 2018 #19

  "Hey guys I went out to mess around on the boat for an hour or two today... Boat fired right as it usually does on the first turn of the key. I planned on just running the boat a little bit and throwing some soft plastics... (No livewell use). Volts were pretty good at about 12.-12.9 while ideling through the canal with the Simrad running."
  You should be reading 13 to 14 volts on your Simrad or a volt meter connected across the battery terminals. If your simad is 12 volts and your batter is 13 to 14 volts then you most likely have a bad connection or corrosion on your battery terminals.
  
  The 13 to 14 volts is what your outboard should be putting out to charge your battery. 
  

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