Trailer lights, tricks to keep working?
I have trailered boats for 25 years and the lighting still suck. I have put the lights on the PVC up rights and had great success. But the Boat I have at this time is wide, with a wide trailer. I do not wish to add PVC guides as I know it will cause a problem being to wide. So I am stuck using traditional LED submersible lights. All of my wire joints are good, but the lights are failing, either just not working more than a few months or they fill with water and do not work until they dry, so no lights on the way home. At home I go to replace the bad light and it has started to work properly as it had dried out? Do any of you have any thoughts or tricks to keep my trailer lighter working? It seems, I have to work on them every two or three trips. Now one fills with water upon launching the boat and is worthless until it drys? Thanks. Tomm
All fresh water use.
All fresh water use.
Triton 1870 Bay Sport, 115 merc. 4/stroke,
Fish Shallow saltwater, lakes central Fl. And Lake Oconee Ga.
Live in Lakeland
Fish Shallow saltwater, lakes central Fl. And Lake Oconee Ga.
Live in Lakeland
Replies
Why not fiber optic trailer lights ?? No stupid fuses,electric bulbs or wires.. Hook to the tail lights. (the ones that almost always work)..
Please send my royalty checks asap ..
And my guide ons don't stick out further than anything else on the boat TBH, i don't think that would be a problem unless you're towing a triple axle 35' boat with a 10'beam. But most anything else, that 1" on each side isn't going to make much if any difference in anything.
Seems like 90% of my trailer light issues is ground related. 10% bulbs going. We've had good success with magnetic lights and other non-submersible lights rigged free of the trailer - we hang em on the boat...
WD-40 on the ball also helps ground the trailer to the vehicle.
Also, one thing I always wanted to try...get that rope light which is cheap..and run it all long the trailer. take some shrink rap which is also cheap and run it on the parts you dont want to light up. That way, the only wire connections you have are at the tongue of the trailer and the rest is 100% waterproof rope light. Splice it into the wiring harness. Should work great
I have a dedicated ground wire as well. The ones that ground to the trailer always rust or corrode no matter what you do
Good idea.
My posts are my opinion only.
Be thankful we're not getting all the government we're paying for. Will Rogers
Yes!
My posts are my opinion only.
Be thankful we're not getting all the government we're paying for. Will Rogers
Fish Shallow saltwater, lakes central Fl. And Lake Oconee Ga.
Live in Lakeland
The second is a dry launch light. It is open on the bottom and the light bulb is on a slide and wiring is made up on terminals. When you back the trailer in the housing traps it full of air and no water enters. Been using it for years on bully net boat and air boats.
Not a fan of leds . I see the all the time with some burnt out.
boathttps://cdn.boatersplus.com/images/thumbnails/280/280/product/36/5801271.jpg
Haven't had to touch the lights in ~8 years. I had to replace the plug once, as I damaged it by accident.
Whatever you do, run a 3rd wire for ground to each light!!!
Did the same thing and every time I hook up to the trailer, i hit the flashers just to remind myself that i don't have to eff with those stupid trailer lights anymore! Man I hated trailer lights.
2) run wires in any kind of plastic or poly or pvc conduit you can...a little abrasion in the wires and + water = problems
3) use LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE on every seam, screw, connection near / at the lights. This is 100% better than silicone IMO
4) your lights will probably still be a p in the a...I have never been able to avoid headaches with trailer wiring and boat wiring. Good luck
Been using for years.
3M Scotchlok 314 IDC Pigtail Electrical Connector Blue tops.
Put the lights on trailer guides this weekend. No more weak link in lighting!
Fish Shallow saltwater, lakes central Fl. And Lake Oconee Ga.
Live in Lakeland
You got all of the good tips above:
Using the above, it has been 6 years since I touched my trailer lights. So far so good.
When re-wiring coil extra wire at both sides of all connections so when a connection fails you can just cut off the bad stuff and make a new connection without much trouble. Also use marine wire on the entire trailer..... it makes a BIG difference.
When re-wiring coil extra wire at both sides of all connections so when a connection fails you can just cut off the bad stuff and make a new connection without much trouble. Also use marine wire on the entire trailer..... it makes a BIG difference.
I bought a new boat/motor/trailer 3 years ago (small at boat) and had light problems after only 4/5 months. Most manufacturers don't care as long as they work when they are sold. After that it is not their problem. I have to clean the connections about once a month to keep mine working. Yes, mostly the white ground connections.
If you run the wires in conduit of any kind, make sure one end is higher than the other, and that there are no low spots in it. Otherwise, it will hold water in the pipe, and sooner or later it will get into the wires and cause a short.
Use liquid tape and heat shrinks at all connections. Make sure you have good grounds.
High quality, waterproof LED lights
Use Anchor wire about 2 gauges higher than specified for the length of the wire run and the amperage
All connections made with high quality, heat shrink connectors and then use heat shrink tubing with adhesive over the the connectors. Get a racheting crimper and heat gun.
Dedicated ground wire for each light –never, never- let me repeat that, never ground to the trailer frame.
Never ever use those connectors that break the wire insulation.
My trailer lights are submerged with each launch and have been in use for 10 years. They still work.
Jeff Cooper