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How to shorten rod butt

I have a Okuma 7' 6" Salt Stalker and the reel seat is about 2.5" further from the end as compared to my 7' 6" Temple Fork Outfitters rod. When pitching plastics the end of the Salt Stalker keeps bumping my arm and/or hanging up on my clothing. Thus I have to sometimes hold the rod in a somewhat uncomfortable position for hook sets. No problem with my TFO.

Would like some advice wrt removing current butt without too much damage so I can re-use after I shorten the rod.


Grey Beard



  • jcanracerjcanracer Posts: 4,344 Moderator
    I know what you mean, I have a jigging rod that I also want to shorten by about 2.5-3"
    In my case, I was going to take a hacksaw to the rod and then cap it off with a butt cap from mudhole.com:
    I figure that butt cap would have to be the right material, inner diameter, and length to make it a tidy fit. I just don't know what type of epoxy to fix it in place.

    I'll be interested to see what suggestions you get from other forum members.
    Hobie Kayak angler for life!
  • Grey BeardGrey Beard Posts: 102 Deckhand
    I looked at a couple of You Tube videos and if cutting with a hack saw they suggested covering the area of the cut with masking tape to avoid splintering. The clear coat that is adjacent to the rod and the butt cap might be softened by a heat gun or careful use of a butane light. One video showed someone putting 2 narrow strips of masking tape on the ends of the rod where the butt cap fits to make a better fit. He didn't want to cover the entire area where the butt cap went so there was some room for the Shoe Goo he used to glue it on.

    I asked Okuma for help and got no info except for a warning that if I cut the rod I voided the warranty. I would rather do that than deal with an uncomfortable rod.

    Grey Beard
  • XafXaf Posts: 1,098 Officer
    Cutting the butt of a rod can effect performance characteristics, but having said that, shortening it by only a couple inches shouldn't change it too much.

    I doubt that you can save the current butt for re-use. You can try warming it with a heat gun or hot water and try to twist it loose but I don't think it is worth the effort. Depending how much you want to shorten the rod you could just cut it off above the butt, otherwise you will have to use something like a razor blade to shave the butt off, being careful not to nick the blank. Once you decide where you want to cut it, wrapping it with a piece of tape to prevent splinters is a good idea. A good sharp hacksaw with small teeth will work. A roto tool with a cutoff blade or a reciprocating electric saw will also work. You just want to be careful and get a smooth straight cut.

    Looks like all you need is the butt and a trim ring. You will need to know the outside diameter of the rod where you are installing the new butt. Ideally the new butt will fit tightly, if not you will need to build up the diameter with masking tape. You can look online to find a new butt or your best bet is to call someplace like Mudhole and explain to them what you need. If you ask they can probably walk you through the steps to install the new butt. Which is fairly simple. You need to coat the rod and inside of the rod butt with a 2 part epoxy such as U-40 Rod Bond, push the rod butt into place, clean up any excess epoxy and let it dry.
  • jcanracerjcanracer Posts: 4,344 Moderator
    Grey Beard, good point on the masking tape! I have used a dremel on carbon fiber before and the tape kept the clearcoat intact. I think I'd do that again rather than use a hacksaw now that i'm thinking about it.
    Hobie Kayak angler for life!
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,840 Captain
    Any competent rodbuilder (or rod shop) should be able to shorten the butt - and come pretty close to matching the way it came from the factory with an entirely new butt section and new buttcap... The only problem for those not used to building rods is that the butt at its end is larger in diameter than the area just above it (so you end up with a bit of difficulty sliding the new butt grip into place without a trick or two..). All I've ever used to glue up handles or secure reel seats is standard slow cure epoxy (usually Fasco). Cleanup is with lacquer thinner. Hope this helps...
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • Alex from GAAlex from GA Posts: 1,481 Officer
    Cut it off, buy a piece of EVA from Mudhole and a butt cap and epoxy it on. It's not rocket science. You probably aren't going to able to use the old one.
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