Skip to main content
Home Boating

2011 build for inland fishing

2»

Replies

  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    Something like that tackle locker would work if it's much more narrow than the one you linked as an example. When I am going on week long trips I put a 105 yeti in front of my console and it fits fine but you wouldn't want anything any wider. I believe it is 31 inches wide.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Actually they make a wide variety of boxes in different sizes and heights. I want one with drawers and a work top with pliers etc at about counter height where I can work on stuff. I'm just not sure how it would be attached where it wouldn't slide around. The hardware on it looks top notch.



    Nice to step off of deck to that work area. Always wanted something like that on a bass boat but can't do it there.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    I talked with Frank today for a few minutes about brainstorming on options to lay rods on the sides over the top of the rod lockers like this:


    Not a deal breaker for me. I can get used to using the vertical rod holders. The rest of the layout actually works perfect for me with the exception of where to mount a foot control for the trolling motor. I don't need it recessed but need a good place to put it.
  • TXWahooTXWahoo Posts: 572 Officer
    blakesfav wrote: »
    I talked with Frank today for a few minutes about brainstorming on options to lay rods on the sides over the top of the rod lockers like this:


    Not a deal breaker for me. I can get used to using the vertical rod holders. The rest of the layout actually works perfect for me with the exception of where to mount a foot control for the trolling motor. I don't need it recessed but need a good place to put it.

    Motorguide makes a wireless foot control for their trolling motors; I believe Minn Kota might as well. You just put it wherever you want on the boat. With the non-skid and rubber feet, it's not going anywhere while fishing and you can stow it in the front hatch or under the console when not being used.

    This is the route I would go as opposed to mounting a foot control.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Great idea if it's stable enough to not get kicked in the water. It would be nicer more firmly fixed so that I wouldn't have to stow it every time I move. I think motor guide has the only wireless version that can still be used with the gps.
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    Minn Kota's foot control is wired for the Ultera and I assume it is for the Ultrex that all of the bass guys are moving to now. For my foot control for the Ultera I have never seen it slide forward but planning off or hitting waves it can slide back. I guess if you came to a sudden stop by grounding out or something it could slide forward. What I did to keep mine in place is crimp a short section of 3/16 shock cord to the foot control and then crimp a loop in the other end. I run that U shaped pin that you have to pull out for the Minn Kota Quick release mount through that loop. It keeps it from sliding back and locks it in pretty much right where I want it to be. I never have to pull it off when trailering.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    I looked at the motor guide closely and the more I think about it the more I like the option of just moving it around on the deck. Fishing a bank with a spinnerbait would actually be much easier with the pedal simply moved so that I can face the bank. Another reason this boat may actually work better for bass fishing than a carpeted bass boat with a recessed fixed location pedal.

    I'm thinking two thoughts on a graph to look at when fishing. I don't really want it on the deck - like a nice clean deck that will allow unencumbered flipping and pitching (hate the gunwhale on the Ranger that is too high and the bait hits it on the way out). Was thinking of mounting one near the corner of the rod locker that faces forward. Or on the wall of the cockpit near the front left corner. Or just putting one large graph on the console and flipping it around to fish.
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    Before my Ultera, I had a Motor Guide Xi5 with the wireless foot control. That foot control was what made me come up with the piece of Shock cord to secure it. With no wire, it would go sliding across the deck much worse than the wired Minn Kota Remote. If you are wanting to be able to move it around the deck according to the side you are fishing, be prepared to remember to pull it off he deck and put it in the floor of the cockpit every time you want to jump on plane. I found the foot control for the Motor Guide to be clunky at best. It was slow to respond and once it did it would over steer. I also took a big wave over the front of my 189 while sitting in the surf during the mullet run that instantly fried my 1st Xi5 foot control.

    I've had 4 flats boats and used a Johnny Ray swivel mount for my console depthfinder so I could swing and see from the front on all but the 2011. I have a windshield on the 2011 so it will not swivel. It would with a Ram Mount but I absolutely hate how insecure those are in rough water. The only issue with viewing the console depth finder from the front is the mapping. It's fine for seeing the depth and spotting fish or bait on the sonar. But viewing the map to follow off shore contours or get precisely on a waypoint is tough. First, it's all the way back at the console so you have to walk back there to zoom in or out to get the proper view of the map. Then the whole map in relation to your direction of movement is backwards when you are rear facing. I can't tell you how many times I would turn right when I should have been turning left when looking back at the map. You get used to it but you will still find yourself making mistakes. If you primarily are fishing visible cover and not relying on your mapping for off shore contours it's no big deal.

    I would recommend you have Frank go ahead and run a Ethernet cable, power cable and NEMA cable to the bow with out hooking them up in case you ever decide to go with a Bow mount depthfinder. If you have them already run, install would be simple.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Great thoughts - you've been extrememly helpful. I have a ton more ideas. The boat is really a perfect blank slate for the type of fishing I do.
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    All the folks on this board helped me a ton with ideas on my builds. It's a great resource.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Yes awesome group - I'm sure I'll be on here a ton until I get this done. Lots of options to look at including the worst one - picking a two tone color :).

    So far I've got windscreen, delete on flush mount rod holders, add second pole and jack plate, no poling platforms. Not sure what fuel management is. Need to look at cover options. Need to look at console type options - not sure what's included in the base. Need to look at seat cushion options. Gotta decide on graphs, which will determine trolling motor choice. Probably will powder pat black hardware depending on hull color choice.
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    Fuel Management may be an old option still listed. When I built my 189 it was an upgrade to the Yamaha gauges where you would have gallons used, rather than just relying on the bars on the fuel gauge. On the SHO 250 on the 2011, I may be wrong but I think the single Yamaha rectangular gauge is standard and it has the fuel consumption data as part of it. You just have to remember to reset it when you fill up.

    One option that I would consider since you are doing a wind screen is a grab rail that surrounds the wind screen. As people are walking past my console it keeps them from grabbing a rod for support. It also gives you a place to mount various gadgets over time. I have a red light I clamp up there when I am night fishing for stripers so I can see my rod tips but not use night vision. I have a buddy that clamps a go-pro light up there. I've seen people put a small piece of pipe insulation on the middle section of the grabrails on bay boats and hang treble hooked plugs as they change them out. It's something I'm very glad I added to my second build.

    Are you going to do a back rest for the helm cushion? I split my backrest into 3 removable sections which has been very nice. If I'm fishing alone I just put the center one in. I also split my helm cushion into 3 sections. Once again if I'm fishing alone I only need the center cushion. It makes jumping up on the rear deck a lot easier.

    Another option to consider since you are talking about taking a lot of gear is locks on all of the compartments. I really like being able to lock everything for long trips. I worry less about it if we pull into a restaurant to grab a quick bite.

    With no poling platform you need to think about where you will mount your anchor light. I put mine on my engine cowling rather than having a pole light. It is something you have to think about when pulling the cowling off to check the oil, the wire for the light has to be unplugged. But I like it other than that.

    For the main livewell, be sure to have him do a standpipe instead of the cover plate over the recessed drain area. You would hate that cover plate system for what you are doing. With the cover plate, you have to run your pumps all the time or all the water will run out of the well. If you bump a switch you lose all your water and all your bass are dead. Plus, you don't have to recirculate the well 100% of the time to keep bass alive which will cut down on a lot of noise. Instead, get the stand pipe and have him install two separate Marine Metal Products bubbler pumps with 4 air lines running into the well. They are very quiet and will really keep you catch much healthier. You can just run your livewell pumps periodically through the day to flush the water.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    I guess the grab bars will be part of the console choice. I never considered that the livewell system would be much different. Great thoughts there on some changes. A timer that runs it every few minutes would be an easy add on. I've looked at a lot of different console types and they all seem to have pluses and minuses. A seat would be nice but I'd prefer the tackle system there I showed a pic of earlier. The backrest system is a great idea. I've seen a more contoured seat there that I may upgrade to.
  • Vinny lVinny l Posts: 389 Deckhand
    The guys on this forum are very knowledgeable. The guidance, recommendations and suggestions I received during my decision making process was invaluable. You're in the right place.. good luck
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Yes they are - starting the process now. Got the basics from Frank and now I need to fly out there and just tweak it with all of the ideas. This will be an AWESOME boat for the type of fishing I do!
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Any concerns of bow hooking with the sharp entry (engaging and spinning the boat 90 or 180 degrees at high speed)? That concern with Egret has been brought up to me by two competitors and I haven't read anything anywhere that reports anyone having an accident in this boat. I've had a bass boat do this to me and eject me and it's not pleasant. Watching the videos it's hard to imagine the hull allowing that to happen.
  • silverdreamssilverdreams Posts: 235 Deckhand
    It can happen , but not common. A lot of things "can happen" if someone drives a boat beyond their operating capacity, or a freak occurrence happens. I had an 18 Egret for 5 years and the 21 now for about 2 1/2 years and I've never experienced it, nor am I concerned. But I could see it happening if you hit a wave/wake at an angle and the nose of the boat was going down, either from too much tab or coming off another wave/wake. The nose of the boat is light and very easy to pick up when running the boat........if it's rough, adjust your speed and use your tabs and the nose softens the ride.
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    blakesfav wrote: »
    Any concerns of bow hooking with the sharp entry (engaging and spinning the boat 90 or 180 degrees at high speed)? That concern with Egret has been brought up to me by two competitors and I haven't read anything anywhere that reports anyone having an accident in this boat. I've had a bass boat do this to me and eject me and it's not pleasant. Watching the videos it's hard to imagine the hull allowing that to happen.

    I've never heard of this happen on any Egret or Moccasin line of boats. I can tell you that with the trim tabs all the way down, the 18 Egret does not bow steer.

    Competitors are always looking for ways to make other builders boats look bad and make themselves look better. I can tell you that I've done plenty of sea trials when I worked for Egret when they were here in Florida. I've heard plenty of BS. Ask those builders if their boats passed a USCG test.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Yes my incident occurred at 78 mph - struck a floating log about the size of my arm. It was enough to kick the prop out of the water and allow the nose to drop and bite. It's a pretty awful experience.

    Any of you guys have any experience running an aluminum deep v walleye boat like the Lund? Would love a direct comparison in ride quality to a different style hull like the Egret.
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    blakesfav wrote: »
    Yes my incident occurred at 78 mph - struck a floating log about the size of my arm. It was enough to kick the prop out of the water and allow the nose to drop and bite. It's a pretty awful experience.

    Any of you guys have any experience running an aluminum deep v walleye boat like the Lund? Would love a direct comparison in ride quality to a different style hull like the Egret.

    What you're describing is an unfortunate accident, when you vessel was running at a high rate of speed an hit a floating object which caused the boat to spin out of control.

    Bow steer is when your pulls to either port or starboard regardless of the operator attempting to correct. This commonly happens on the flats when the operator puts the trim tabs down on powers up to get on plane in the shortest possible distance. In many cases the bow digs in and the boat pulls to one side at a high rate of speed as the boat leans hard in the opposite direction. This can also happen in rough water in beam/quartering seas mainly on smaller lighter vessels and/or little deadrise. The degree of bow steer is dependent on various factors as mentioned by Silverdreams"
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,394 Officer
    blakesfav wrote: »
    Any of you guys have any experience running an aluminum deep v walleye boat like the Lund? Would love a direct comparison in ride quality to a different style hull like the Egret.

    I owned a Lund back in the day. The ride quality of the Lund is like comparing A Crap Sandwhich (being the Lund) to A Ice Cream Sunday with Whip Cream and a Cherry on top!
    Hope this helps!:grin
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    FlatsBoy wrote: »
    I owned a Lund back in the day. The ride quality of the Lund is like comparing A Crap Sandwhich (being the Lund) to A Ice Cream Sunday with Whip Cream and a Cherry on top!
    Hope this helps!:grin

    Ha that makes it perfectly clear :)
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Bow steer also occurs in bass boats in quartering waves and it's usually controllable unless at high speed. At high speed the precipitating event is some type of prop blowout usually. I never thought about the contribution of the trim tab but that makes sense. It's the violent version of this that I'm concerned about and I'm sure it can occur in any boat with any amount of deadrise.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Any thoughts on how the boat maneuvers on the trolling motor? I was thinking last night that the extended front would make it difficult to swivel the boat 90 degrees in tight spaces. I've read the threads on the tracking issues at low speed and wondered if this might make it more difficult to move around with the troller down.
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,394 Officer
    blakesfav wrote: »
    Any thoughts on how the boat maneuvers on the trolling motor? I was thinking last night that the extended front would make it difficult to swivel the boat 90 degrees in tight spaces. I've read the threads on the tracking issues at low speed and wondered if this might make it more difficult to move around with the troller down.

    I really think you need to go and take a ride and operate the boat in person. This will answer all your questions along with going to the Factory to see the operation along with working out your details. You can read and read and read but noting will sell you unless your run the boat ans see it for yourself and decide if it's the boat for you.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    I agree trying to get there in early September. I'm trying to learn as much as I can so that if there's a total deal breaker I don't waste a trip. I appreciate all of the input you guys have shared and it seems to be a remarkable platform for the things I want it to do.
  • silverdreamssilverdreams Posts: 235 Deckhand
    Boat works perfectly fine on the trolling motor. I had a bow mount motor on my 18' Egret, then put transom mount trolling motors on it and either worked fine, both had their pros and cons. I started with transom mount motors on my 21' Egret, then switched to the bow mount I pilot. I can fish docks without any issues, get in and out of tight spots with no trouble. I have experience with bass boats, Hewes Redfisher, Ranger Cayman, Maverick Master Angler and a 24' Sheaffer......all had trolling motors on them. I would say they all worked about the same, with the difference being response time on the heavier boats. The Egret floats high and is light, so it's easy to move on the trolling motor.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    Great input - thank you
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    I agree with silverdreams. The Egret does just fine on the trolling motor. I had a Hells Bay prior to my first Egret and I didn't notice any big differences in responsiveness with the trolling motor. The thing I love about the Egret, especially the 2011 is the way it rides up and over waves while on the trolling motor or anchored. My dad's old Pathfinder would take waves over the bow while on the trolling motor very easily.
  • blakesfavblakesfav Posts: 34 Deckhand
    91tiger wrote: »
    I agree with silverdreams. The Egret does just fine on the trolling motor. I had a Hells Bay prior to my first Egret and I didn't notice any big differences in responsiveness with the trolling motor. The thing I love about the Egret, especially the 2011 is the way it rides up and over waves while on the trolling motor or anchored. My dad's old Pathfinder would take waves over the bow while on the trolling motor very easily.

    When I first got interested in the Egret I found pics of it being towed in 10 foot sees and still plugging along. It's a remarkable hull and I think very unique.
Sign In or Register to comment.
Magazine Cover

GET THE MAGAZINE Subscribe & Save

Digital Now Included!

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Give a Gift   |   Subscriber Services

Preview This Month's Issue

Buy Digital Single Issues

Don't miss an issue.
Buy single digital issue for your phone or tablet.

Buy Single Digital Issue on the Florida Sportsman App

Other Magazines

See All Other Magazines

Special Interest Magazines

See All Special Interest Magazines

GET THE NEWSLETTER Join the List and Never Miss a Thing.

Get the top Florida Sportsman stories delivered right to your inbox.

Advertisement

Phone Icon

Get Digital Access.

All Florida Sportsman subscribers now have digital access to their magazine content. This means you have the option to read your magazine on most popular phones and tablets.

To get started, click the link below to visit mymagnow.com and learn how to access your digital magazine.

Get Digital Access

Not a Subscriber?
Subscribe Now