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Leaders

I would like to ask two question s concerning leaders:
1. Is there an optimum ratio of leader lb. test relative to line lb. test? For example 10 lb. test braid, what lb. test leader?
2. Under what conditions is it a good idea to use flourocarbon(FC) leader? Considering the difficulty tying secure knots in FC should one use it on a regular basis, or only when conditions require it? What are some secure knots to use with FC?
Thanks for the help.
Bob

Replies

  • Alex from GAAlex from GA Posts: 1,681 Captain
    IMO. 1. no, if you get bit on 30 use it if not go lighter. 2. all, it's no different tying fluorocarbon than mono. I use fluorocarbon on my bass worm rods exclusively and tie the same palomar knot to the hook as I do with anything else. It's the braid that is the problem with knots. When tying heavy, 12-30 lb, mono or fluorocarbon, to braid I use a 3 turn surgeons knot and when tying a lighter, 6 or 8 lb fluorocarbon or mono leader I use a modified albright. An fg knot they say is better but I haven't used it. Always wet the knot to pull it tight.
  • StandOutI2StandOutI2 Posts: 544 Officer
    I throw flourocarbon 100% of the time so I can get away with throwing lighter braid for farther casts. I throw 20lb flouro for redfish, but if I know that there are some snook in the area I'll go 30 and then pray. I use a couple knots. Uni knot, or an Albright knot. Albright is considerably easier to tie, especially on the water.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:fishing
  • Jim311Jim311 Posts: 4,961 Captain
    I use Ande mono leader. Most of my inshore stuff is done with 30lb in the summer. Sometimes I up the topwater rod to 50lb leader in warmer months to cut down on break offs from macks and jacks snook or tarpon or other toothy stuff. In the winter I have to worry less about break offs and the water is clearer so I might use 20lb. The only time I've noticed fish being leader shy was fishing for mangrove snapper offshore. I keep a bait caster with 15lb fluoro line on it (no leader) for throwing mirrodines and jerkbaits when stealth and a quiet presentation is important. If you can't catch a pile of trout on a grass flat with it the fish just aren't there.
  • mburke001 aka TripleBmburke001 aka TripleB Posts: 1,593 Captain
    i mostly use 30-50 lb braid with a FC leader usually 30-50-80 lb. I use the uni knot.
  • VertigoVertigo Yankeetown, FLPosts: 617 Officer
    For reds and trout I use 20# FC. If I get into some toothy fish like Spanish mackerel I use a wire leader. Leader to line an Albright knot works for me.
  • GatorCityGatorCity Posts: 332 Deckhand
    20lb braid with 20lb flouro leader for trout & reds. If I'm working a bar I may go up to 30lb leader to cut down on break-offs. I tie double-uni exclusively on my braid to flouro - have never had a knot failure using that knot. On leader to hook/jig I tie Palomar and loop knot for topwater plugs.
  • sEA aRKERsEA aRKER Inglis fl.Posts: 123 Deckhand
    I've been using 20# braid and the FC connection, I use about 30'' of leader in order to be able to switch lures multiple times without having to tie on a new leader. I think the FC " KNOT" is one of the best leader to line connections I've used, and also slips through the rod eyes better too.
  • sEA aRKERsEA aRKER Inglis fl.Posts: 123 Deckhand
    I meant FG knot sorry bout that
  • Wishin i was fishinWishin i was fishin Dunnellon FlPosts: 977 Officer
    Albright or FG will go through your guides much better than the uni. I use the Albright most of the time because it's familiar. For inshore I use 15lb braid and 20lb FC leader most of the time with a loop knot for the hook or lure. If we target bigger snook a 30-40lb leader improves your odds of landing the fish. My offshore rod has 50lb braid with about 25' of 80lb mono attached with an Albright knot, then a sliding sinker above a swivel then and 80lb FC leader with a snelled circle hook usually.
    But to better answer the question you asked, I don't think there's a formula. It depends on the water clarity and the species waryness. My understanding is that mono is much more visable when it has small abrasions than FC. Fish that get a lot of pressure aren't stupid. Lots of good fisherman will tell you they become more and more wary of the tackle. So the lighter the better.
  • SevenweightSevenweight Posts: 95 Deckhand
    20 or 30 lb fluorocarbon on 15 lb braid for inshore for me.

    Line-to-line I use the FG knot. Great knot.
    Leader-to-lure I use a uni knot if no loop is needed.
    If I want a non-slip loop for improved lure action, I use the Rapala knot, Lefty Kreh version (last step is removed from the original Rapala knot) so the tag end points down toward the lure.

    The only mono knot I have had fail on fluorocarbon is the improved clinch. Lost multiple fish before I figured that one out.
  • Jim311Jim311 Posts: 4,961 Captain
    The improved clinch is a strong knot when tied right but you definitely have to cinch it tight and leave a small tag end and using the right amount of turns for the line size. 5 or less for heavier leaders and 7 or more for really light line. It's my go-to knot for tying lures or hooks that don't require a loop knot. The knots I use most are the Rapala loop knot, improved clinch, and improved Albright. We virtually never have breakoffs except to sharks, jacks, the occasional tarpon, or toothy stuff.
  • SevenweightSevenweight Posts: 95 Deckhand
    Jim311 wrote: »
    The improved clinch is a strong knot when tied right but you definitely have to cinch it tight and leave a small tag end and using the right amount of turns for the line size. 5 or less for heavier leaders and 7 or more for really light line. It's my go-to knot for tying lures or hooks that don't require a loop knot. The knots I use most are the Rapala loop knot, improved clinch, and improved Albright. We virtually never have breakoffs except to sharks, jacks, the occasional tarpon, or toothy stuff.
    Yeah, I used the improved clinch with mono for about 35 years without issues :-). However when I started using 8 lb fluorocarbon for smallmouth around '05 I lost a few good fish due to knot failure. I switched to the Trilene knot for light freshwater, which is rated very high with fluoro and, among other things, has the advantage of running the line twice through the hook eye (a nice-to-have with light line). Likely the difference is with light fluoro vs the gauge we use in saltwater. If you look around you'll see a lot of commentary about avoiding improved clinch with fluoro from reliable sources like knot wars. Your mileage may vary however.
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