Lenco Trim Tabs

Family Devocean · November 2015

Anybody know who can work on these? My port will only go down and the starboard will only go up. However, when I turn the engine off, the port does auto-retract. They are electric driven not hydraulic.

rookiemistake · November 2015

might be the switch. if they retract they should still be good, sounds like wiring issue

Reel Mayhem Too · November 2015

Family Devocean wrote: »

Anybody know who can work on these? My port will only go down and the starboard will only go up. However, when I turn the engine off, the port does auto-retract. They are electric driven not hydraulic.

Check your grounds. or you can give me a call at 338-6172.

Family Devocean · November 2015

The switch has a single connection that goes into a box. All wiring appears to be sealed and good

Boattronics · November 2015

You have the soft digital pad. The wire you see that attaches to the bottom pulls right off, you grip it with two fingers to disengage the little pin at the connection.

Purchase a new one at west for about $50. Be careful with the box. Simply disconnect the old one and temporarily plug up the new one under the console, check functionality.

If the new button pad works, it will take you five minutes to replace. The old one will have 4 plastic nuts usually only finger tight with no tools nessasary.

If the new key pad doesn't change current functionality, it's the box you see in the console that must be replaced. Package the new key pad back up and take it to west to put towards the box purchase. Replacing the box is only slightly more complicated, as you'll need to butt splice 7 connections, but they are easy to identify as they are color coded.

Or, purchase both the box and pad at the same time, try the pad first. Take back which piece you don't need.

Family Devocean · November 2015

Okay Tony, thank you, I'll try that.

Boattronics · November 2015

My pleasure bud.

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

Boattronics wrote: »

You have the soft digital pad. The wire you see that attaches to the bottom pulls right off, you grip it with two fingers to disengage the little pin at the connection.

Purchase a new one at west for about $50. Be careful with the box. Simply disconnect the old one and temporarily plug up the new one under the console, check functionality.

If the new button pad works, it will take you five minutes to replace. The old one will have 4 plastic nuts usually only finger tight with no tools nessasary.

If the new key pad doesn't change current functionality, it's the box you see in the console that must be replaced. Package the new key pad back up and take it to west to put towards the box purchase. Replacing the box is only slightly more complicated, as you'll need to butt splice 7 connections, but they are easy to identify as they are color coded.

Or, purchase both the box and pad at the same time, try the pad first. Take back which piece you don't need.

What happens if there is a short in the actuator, like say, from water intrusion ? Will it smoke the parts that you buy to troubleshoot the problem and if so will West Marine still refund your money ? Can you smell the burnt electrical parts or are you able to return them to WM without them knowing ? If so, wouldn't that be dishonest ? Isn't it kind of wrong anyway to use WMs return policy as a tool ? Just curious....

Boattronics · December 2015

Lol he said both actuators are moving Wade. Pretty far long shot you thought of don't you think?

I'll bet money it's the switch pad or box, and most likely the pad.... we shall see!

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

Iz just asking bud, tryin to learn every chance that I get. I could've suggested that he warm the control pad with a hair dryer and see if it worked then. I could've suggested that he jump the plug and see if that worked. I reckon guessing is as good as any though...:-) I did learn somethin though....I wasn't aware that WM allowed electrical part returns, almost no one else does. I wonder why that is ?

Boattronics · December 2015

Lol its called an "educated" guess..... 90% chance it's the switch pad based on his description, and a 5 minute repair he can do himself. Just tryin to help a brotha out.

Westside Marine · December 2015

huh?????????????

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

Boattronics wrote: »

Lol he said both actuators are moving Wade. Pretty far long shot you thought of don't you think?

I'll bet money it's the switch pad or box, and most likely the pad.... we shall see!

Actually no Tony it is not a long shot, I always check resistance of the actuators for a short to ground prior to replacing the box or switch which is why I advised to check the grounds. It's that 10% that bites and cost ya but I guess that it doesn't matter when you're betting with someone elses money huh ? We may very well be revisiting this thread in a month or so after the new part(s) have fixed the problem today only to reoccur shortly after. Does West Marine really refund electrical parts ?

Boattronics · December 2015

Reel Mayhem Too wrote: »

Check your grounds. or you can give me a call at 338-6172.

Family Devocean wrote: »

The switch has a single connection that goes into a box. All wiring appears to be sealed and good

Reel Mayhem Too wrote: »

What happens if there is a short in the actuator, like say, from water intrusion ? Will it smoke the parts that you buy to troubleshoot the problem and if so will West Marine still refund your money ? Can you smell the burnt electrical parts or are you able to return them to WM without them knowing ? If so, wouldn't that be dishonest ? Isn't it kind of wrong anyway to use WMs return policy as a tool ? Just curious....

Reel Mayhem Too wrote: »

Iz just asking bud, tryin to learn every chance that I get. I could've suggested that he warm the control pad with a hair dryer and see if it worked then. I could've suggested that he jump the plug and see if that worked. I reckon guessing is as good as any though...:-) I did learn somethin though....I wasn't aware that WM allowed electrical part returns, almost no one else does. I wonder why that is ?

Reel Mayhem Too wrote: »

Actually no Tony it is not a long shot, I always check resistance of the actuators for a short to ground prior to replacing the box or switch which is why I advised to check the grounds. It's that 10% that bites and cost ya but I guess that it doesn't matter when you're betting with someone elses money huh ? We may very well be revisiting this thread in a month or so after the new part(s) have fixed the problem today only to reoccur shortly after. Does West Marine really refund electrical parts ?

Look, I was just trying to be nice and help the dude save some money on a repair that there is a 90% chance he can do himself in 5 minutes.

But reading the thread again, you must think I replied to block a call your way which is not the case at all.

But, since you insist, let's break it down.

You keep saying ground (s) as in there are multiple grounds to this system. There is only one ground, a black wire to the relay box. It is obviously getting a ground because both tabs are moving and auto retracting.

There are two weaknesses to this system, that 9 times out of ten, will either be the switch pad, or the harness connections to the actuators which are typically in the bilge section of the boat, that tend to get moist and fail due to corrosion because they have been improperly heat shrinked, or the diotch connector in place of those same butt splices has failed.

This is not likely the case because both actuators are moving, though the aft connections should be checked.

This leads towards the switch. The switch seal may have been compromised, the connection could be corroded, or the cable weight has broke the connection loose from the bottom of the switch pad, based on 17 years of seeing this stuff every day.

The switch pad is simply a low level signal that is sent to the relay box, which has the power and ground supplied to it which engages relays that reverse polarity, thus turning the reversible motor in the actuator in or out.

Based on what he has described, it's about a 90% chance its the switch that he can change in 5 minutes. Just trying to help the guy out.

But Wade, maybe your right. Maybe I shouldn't have offered him any professional experience/advice that could possibly help him fix it himself.

So I tell ya what Family Devocean...... you change that switch, and it doesn't work, then I'll do whatever labor it takes to fix it for free. If it smokes the switch like Wade said, I'll buy ya a new switch too. After all, it is Christmas season!

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

No need to get upset Tony, that reversible ground can make lotsa different things happen if it is weak. No ? I'm only busting your chops because you like to bust others so..... Hope business is good bro. :-)

kajo · December 2015

to break this down in a positive way..you have 2 guys fighting (friendly) to help someone..love to see that!!

you guys rock!!

Boattronics · December 2015

Lol thanks Wade, hope you and yours are well too. You are still my go to recommendation for hydraulic pump/ram/helm rebuilds and of course mobile trailer repair..... Merry Christmas!

Boattronics · December 2015

The coincidence of this timing is astounding lol....

So today I had to go repair some stuff on a 25 Shearwater. Lenco tabs were on the repair list, so I brought an extra switch just incase.

Low and behold, I check the switch and the connector had broken off the bottom of the pad, a problem I explained just last night that I see often. Put the new pad in, 5 minutes later she was golden.

Family Devocean, I took a couple pics to illustrate for you.

In this case, it wasn't corrosion, but rather, an improper installation that did not provide support for the cable. The weight of the cable had pulled the connector loose from the pad.

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

Cause and effect......Although parts routinely fail, most times there is a cause for their failure which you have just demonstrated beautifully. Great job ! What would likely happen if you did not also fix the problem of the harness pulling on the new switch that you installed ? AH.....now maybe, just maybe, the failure would reoccur at some point down the road right ? Which is to say that when you replace a defective part, you should also check to ascertain if there was a contributing factor as to the failure of that part and remedy that prior to installing the new part. Tony, I didn't reply to your post because I wanted a job, I replied because I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem until it goes away, that gets expensive. I will be the first to admit that I hate wiring, despise it and every thing associated with it, it's just not what I like to do. How many boat rewires have I tried to give you ? I ended up having to do them myself and all though I don't enjoy doing them, it doesn't mean that I don't know how or that I do them half azzed. If you can't handle a little critique bud, you shouldn't critique others. You still haven't answered my question though...... Does West Marine really allow electrical part returns ?

Family Devocean · December 2015

Wow, a lot of things to think about. I'm no guru when it comes to electrical stuff (yes, that's a technical term I learnt in school) so I have no clue how to test this stuff. I checked a new switch pad at West Marine and it's about $83, which I hate to waste, but I don't mind trying if you guys think it might be the pad.

ReefRocket · December 2015

Those actuators are expensive. I used ebay when I purchased my used set. The ebay was 1/2 price. This was years ago. Not sure of the pricing now.

Maysport · December 2015

Family Devocean wrote: »

Wow, a lot of things to think about. I'm no guru when it comes to electrical stuff (yes, that's a technical term I learnt in school) so I have no clue how to test this stuff. I checked a new switch pad at West Marine and it's about $83, which I hate to waste, but I don't mind trying if you guys think it might be the pad.

Dang, Chris, sounds kinda risky! Rather than get a new pad I'd leave your boat unlocked in a storage lot and go get a new one (just kidding)!! LOL! Good luck!

dilligaf84 · December 2015

Maysport wrote: »

Dang, Chris, sounds kinda risky! Rather than get a new pad I'd leave your boat unlocked in a storage lot and go get a new one (just kidding)!! LOL! Good luck!

Haha, has worked in the past.( Also just kidding)

Boattronics · December 2015

Reel Mayhem Too wrote: »

Cause and effect......Although parts routinely fail, most times there is a cause for their failure which you have just demonstrated beautifully. Great job ! What would likely happen if you did not also fix the problem of the harness pulling on the new switch that you installed ? AH.....now maybe, just maybe, the failure would reoccur at some point down the road right ? Which is to say that when you replace a defective part, you should also check to ascertain if there was a contributing factor as to the failure of that part and remedy that prior to installing the new part. Tony, I didn't reply to your post because I wanted a job, I replied because I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem until it goes away, that gets expensive. I will be the first to admit that I hate wiring, despise it and every thing associated with it, it's just not what I like to do. How many boat rewires have I tried to give you ? I ended up having to do them myself and all though I don't enjoy doing them, it doesn't mean that I don't know how or that I do them half azzed. If you can't handle a little critique bud, you shouldn't critique others. You still haven't answered my question though...... Does West Marine really allow electrical part returns ?

Lol WOW you have tottaly blown this thing up into something it's not lol!

The op needed help. Based on his description, it's most likely a bad pad. I explained to him how to try a new one.... he won't damage anything trying one.... and offered to pay for the switch pad if he did lol!

And to answer your question..... I've never had a problem returning anything to West Marine.

Reel Mayhem Too · December 2015

Tony, I have already told you that I was just getting your goat bro. Although I don't agree with your TS method, I am glad that you reach out to help others. Being perfect ain't as easy as it's made out to be sometimes.....

Family Devocean · December 2015

dilligaf84 wrote: »

Haha, has worked in the past.( Also just kidding)

You guys are hilarious. The problem is every time they steal the dang boat, we keep finding it. I'd rather they steal it and sink the darn thing somewhere!!!

Let's go fishing, I'm not seeing anything in the woods.

sydngoose · December 2015

Family Devocean wrote: »

You guys are hilarious. The problem is every time they steal the dang boat, we keep finding it. I'd rather they steal it and sink the darn thing somewhere!!!

Let's go fishing, I'm not seeing anything in the woods.

well...did you take Tony's advice and buy the $83 part? Inquiring minds want to settle this debate between Tony and Wade. When you do have it corrected, please update this thread.

Morocco_madness · December 2015

sydngoose wrote: »

well...did you take Tony's advice and buy the $83 part? Inquiring minds want to settle this debate between Tony and Wade. When you do have it corrected, please update this thread.

I ran into some problems with my Lenco Tabs a few weeks ago. Mine would open no problem but wouldn't retract. Wound up being a bad motor. Also, if you take off the tab motors at some point, do yourself a favor and get rid of the plastic pins that connect the motor to the transom. Lenco's tend to come with them and they definitely fail after a while. Change them out to a SS bolt and lock nut.

Mike at Morning Star is my go to guy for repairs, whether it's mechanical or electrical. He does it all. My Sea Hunt has been an electrical nightmare and Mike has pulled through in fine style every dang time. He has even gone and grinded out small dings in my prop for me without saying a word about it. No payment necessary, just repaired the prop out of kindness. One day(probably weeks later) I noticed the propeller looked new again. I had no idea why or how, sorda figured maybe I dreamed having dinged the prop or something(this made me crazy for a minute). Then one day Mike walks by and says "You keeping that prop out of the rocks?" with a big smile on his face. That's when I realized he did the repair for me. Excellent service and has gone the extra mile for me time and time again. He's saved a number of charters that I would have lost due to boat problems.

Boattronics · December 2015

sydngoose wrote: »

well...did you take Tony's advice and buy the $83 part? Inquiring minds want to settle this debate between Tony and Wade. When you do have it corrected, please update this thread.

There is no debate lol.... I simply offered free advice to a guy asking for it.

Morocco_madness wrote: »

I ran into some problems with my Lenco Tabs a few weeks ago. Mine would open no problem but wouldn't retract. Wound up being a bad motor. Also, if you take off the tab motors at some point, do yourself a favor and get rid of the plastic pins that connect the motor to the transom. Lenco's tend to come with them and they definitely fail after a while. Change them out to a SS bolt and lock nut.

Mike at Morning Star is my go to guy for repairs, whether it's mechanical or electrical. He does it all. My Sea Hunt has been an electrical nightmare and Mike has pulled through in fine style every dang time. He has even gone and grinded out small dings in my prop for me without saying a word about it. No payment necessary, just repaired the prop out of kindness. One day(probably weeks later) I noticed the propeller looked new again. I had no idea why or how, sorda figured maybe I dreamed having dinged the prop or something(this made me crazy for a minute). Then one day Mike walks by and says "You keeping that prop out of the rocks?" with a big smile on his face. That's when I realized he did the repair for me. Excellent service and has gone the extra mile for me time and time again. He's saved a number of charters that I would have lost due to boat problems.

I agree, Mike is the man. Only dude who touches my engine, and calls me for electronics work when he doesn't want to do it.

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