Reel maintenence help (Penn Battle 3000)

Hi everyone,
I've got a problem with my Penn Battle 3000 that I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with. A couple weeks back I was fishing at Cedar Key with a friend and her cousins from out of town. Since they didn't have any rods, I was letting them use mine. At one point, my friend catches a nice trout and her cousin puts my rod down to go help her even though he had a live pin fish in the water. Of course, this is when presumably the biggest fish of the day decides to take the bait and the rod and reel go overboard. :banghead Amazingly, after about two hours under water, we randomly managed to snag the line still in the water and retrieve both the rod and reel.

So the next day I take the reel to a local shop to get it cleaned, hoping it can be salvaged. A few days later I get the call to pick up, but they tell me that they weren't able to clean the reel because the couldn't get it open. The screws and the handle are rusted (presumably?) and couldn't be removed to open up the reel. Now the reel still casts and spinds (I actually caught a few fish with it this weekend) although it definitely isn't smooth any more and I can feel some grinding.

So my question is this: is there anything I can possibly soak the reel in that might remove the rust without hurting the insides of the reel? Or anything else that might work? My goal is to just be able to open up the reel so that I can clean it as best I can. Thanks.


  • Luv2YakLuv2Yak Posts: 944 Officer
    Wow ... I'm going to have to be more careful with my Penn Battle 3000 ... kind of hard to believe this reel could become that corroded and rusted after being submerged in saltwater for 2 hours .... I'm guessing the grinding you feel is from grit and sand ... I dunno ... maybe contact Penn to find out whether you could send it to them for re-conditioning?
  • johnDjohnD WC FLPosts: 6,400 Admiral
    I'd send it back to Penn.

    They monitor this forum (link below) , you might want to send the Penn guy a PM.
  • cprcpr Posts: 9,309 Admiral
    maybe this guy can help

    If it were me, after taking the spool off I'd spray the crap out of it with corrosion X and hope it would work it way down the shaft, turn the handle and repeat, so something would get into the housing. I'd also spray under the rotor. while slowly turning the handle. Of course that would mess up the grease job but I've done it and the reel is still working fine.
    "The test of a first-rate intelligence is the ability to hold two opposed ideas in the mind at the same time, and still retain the ability to function." F. Scott Fitzgerald

    "Prediction is very difficult, especially if it's about the future." Niels Bohr
  • Alex from GAAlex from GA Posts: 1,297 Officer
    If and when it happens to anyone, put the whole reel in a bucket of fresh water and bring it to the shop or home in the water. I used to repair cameras and we'd tell people who got their $400 cameras submerged to do that. It's the O2 in the air that rusts not the water.
  • Permit RatPermit Rat Posts: 2,283 Captain
    Wow....I better check that Shimano that I purposefully did not open up and clean, after being dunked by my girlfriend. It was a cheapie and I wanted to see how the quality stacked up against the Stellas and other high end Shimanos.

    But after thinking for not too long, I remembered that this is a potential problem with all reels since there are dissimilar metals between the chrome plated (or stainless) screw and the body material that the screw goes into. In other words, this is electrolysis and you might have had the same problem, even if the reel had not gone overboard. This is good to know, since I am also in the process of changing over to Battles, from BG Daiwas that are going on 30 years old. By this I mean that some reels are better or worse, where this problem is concerned. I never had the problem with my BG's, but the old Shakespeare Sigmas and the old Spinmaster reels were notorious for corrosion in the coverplate screws.
    The best preventative procedure that I have come up with, is to take the reel from the box and clean all the screws in lighter fluid, to remove any grease. Then put a tiny dab of Lok-tite toward the bottom of each screw. Now re-grease the screws and put them back as they were. If the cover plate of your reel has recesses for the screw heads, fill them with a good waterproof axel grease, after the screws are in place. This will further help to keep water out. However, this is not going to completely solve the problem and you should take your reels and back off/re-tighten those screws, about once a month, depending on how often you use your reels.
  • Permit RatPermit Rat Posts: 2,283 Captain
    You serious fishermen with lots of reels, would also be well served by dedicating and converting 1-2 Phillips head screwdrivers for the "cross-slotted" screw heads found on many reels. These are not true phillips head screws and in fact, one is better off using a standard slot screwdriver to remove them.

    So to maximize the area of contact between a Phillips head and the screw, you have to grind down the point of the head, so that it is flat, like the screw head. Then you have to file down the thicknesses of each leg of the "X", such that it will fit in the slots. This is tedious and labor intensive to be sure (there are 8 surfaces to file), but you can do this while watching a football/baseball game on TV. The result will be a screwdriver that has maximum contact with the screw heads in your reels and you should never strip a screw head.

    BTW, it is also good to customize your slotted drivers for those straight slotted screw heads in your reels. Start with a screwdriver that is too thick for the slot in the screw, and grind it down until a snug fit is achieved. The less freedom of motion you have, between the screwdriver and the slot in the screw, the less chance you have for burring or stripping a screw head.

    At one time, I had a dedicated and custom made set of tools for doing maintenance on all my Penn Internationals. The right tools make the job much easier and faster, not to mention keeping expensive reels looking like new.
  • Toad31Toad31 Posts: 13 Greenhorn
    I have had pretty good success using Inox. It is a silicon based lubricant that works really well. Also, if you are able to get your battle open, here is a link that will help you with your cleaning.

    Good luck.
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