I have a 2000 189 and I am trying to modify my live well drain pipes.......1 1/2" PVC is too big and 1 1/4" PVC is too small.....I even tried 1 3/8" outside diameter flex PVC hose and that was slightly too small. Any suggestions?
I have a 2000 189 and I am trying to modify my live well drain pipes.......1 1/2" PVC is too big and 1 1/4" PVC is too small.....I even tried 1 3/8" outside diameter flex PVC hose and that was slightly too small. Any suggestions?
I think they are the same, but I have a Lauderdale built boat and the outside diameter on the overflow stand pipe is 1 7/16. Measure the other one if you have it. Good Luck...Pete
I have a 2000 189 and I am trying to modify my live well drain pipes.......1 1/2" PVC is too big and 1 1/4" PVC is too small.....I even tried 1 3/8" outside diameter flex PVC hose and that was slightly too small. Any suggestions?
The original push in design was poorly conceived. Its totally worth it to replump with new pipes and water input. I think most people that found themselves wrestling with that design switched it out completely to new standpipes that screw in. There are several options for that. Its an easy fix and not very much to do and it works much better than the original. If you switch it you probably will want to rework the water inflow too to a different design such as clamshell and get rid of that that other inflow standpipe.
Guys, Long time reader, first time posting - did anyone find replacement pipes that fit the inlet or drain on the old style egrets, or did everyone do surgery and switch designs? I have a yr2000 189; thinking that a buddy on trash duty cleaned out everything in the livewell, standpipes included, so I'm down a set of pipes. I measured my OD's at 1.425"-1.450" for the overflow and 0.725"-0.735" for the inflow pipe. Wall thickness measured at 0.080". I was very surprised that the pipe had that much OD variation, got me looking at “tubing” instead of pipe. As others have mentioned, I haven't found a perfect match while searching the web - some HDPE tubing seems to nearly match (maybe "close" match with Pete's sanding gets them there!)
Current options:
-buy HDPE tubing slightly oversized, heat and insert to take final form, or sand down to fit
-buy PVC, cut 4 "flex grooves" 90deg apart on the insertion end, they may allow enough pipe pinch to collapse the extra OD and push in, slits will continuously discharge or drain water, sounds like the junk on the bottom of the well will purge out (good), but will also mean water level only maintained when pump is running (negative?)
-buy oversized PVC, turn down on wood lathe to proper OD
-buy undersized PVC, build up with self-adhering plumbers repair tape
-buy undersized PVC, cut o-ring groove in pipe, find suitable o-ring to secure fit
Just FYI, I removed the original standpipes, which constantly came out of the opening, as well as trapping small bait behind the standpipe. I made the new standpipes out of PVC to screw into the base by epoxying threads into the opening. By having different size pipes I can adjust the amour of water and weight I have in the wells, and the pipes are close enough to the curvature of the well that bait no longer gets trapped.
The original push in design was poorly conceived. Its totally worth it to replump with new pipes and water input. I think most people that found themselves wrestling with that design switched it out completely to new standpipes that screw in. There are several options for that. Its an easy fix and not very much to do and it works much better than the original. If you switch it you probably will want to rework the water inflow too to a different design such as clamshell and get rid of that that other inflow standpipe.
I had the same problem with my '97 189. I wanted a shorter pipe when I am carrying just a dozen or so crabs. I ended up buying the 1 1/2 pipe and then took a sharp knife and trimmed the out edge of the rubber bottom which has what looks like a skirt around it. To install it just push and spin at the same time and it will work itself into the original bottom of both the bait well and the release well.
Just FYI, I removed the original standpipes, which constantly came out of the opening, as well as trapping small bait behind the standpipe. I made the new standpipes out of PVC to screw into the base by epoxying threads into the opening. By having different size pipes I can adjust the amour of water and weight I have in the wells, and the pipes are close enough to the curvature of the well that bait no longer gets trapped.
I wanted to add some updated detail to this topic. I used this topic in my search for a new standpipe for my Florida built Egret 167. I contacted Marine East (link above) and was able to get a new drain pipe and screen from them.
Part Number:
O-9097 1.5"OVERFLO TUBE BLACK
9133 INTAKE SCRN-1"1800-10
New pipe on the right, old on the left. They sell the pipe in 16.5" length. I'll trim it to the final size I need. Also will add a cable loop as a pull tab similar to the factory one.
Similar to the old pipe I sanded down about an inch of the pipe where it will slip into the drain. Fits perfectly!
I hope this information can help someone in the future fast track their search!
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Replies
I think they are the same, but I have a Lauderdale built boat and the outside diameter on the overflow stand pipe is 1 7/16. Measure the other one if you have it. Good Luck...Pete
If I remember right. I want to say that the input pipe was sanded down to fit. Good Luck... Pete
The original push in design was poorly conceived. Its totally worth it to replump with new pipes and water input. I think most people that found themselves wrestling with that design switched it out completely to new standpipes that screw in. There are several options for that. Its an easy fix and not very much to do and it works much better than the original. If you switch it you probably will want to rework the water inflow too to a different design such as clamshell and get rid of that that other inflow standpipe.
Current options:
-buy HDPE tubing slightly oversized, heat and insert to take final form, or sand down to fit
-buy PVC, cut 4 "flex grooves" 90deg apart on the insertion end, they may allow enough pipe pinch to collapse the extra OD and push in, slits will continuously discharge or drain water, sounds like the junk on the bottom of the well will purge out (good), but will also mean water level only maintained when pump is running (negative?)
-buy oversized PVC, turn down on wood lathe to proper OD
-buy undersized PVC, build up with self-adhering plumbers repair tape
-buy undersized PVC, cut o-ring groove in pipe, find suitable o-ring to secure fit
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/t-h-marine--baitwell-drain-tubes--P010126613
Maverick 17T sold
nice work!
http://www.marineeast.com/
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
Part Number:
O-9097 1.5"OVERFLO TUBE BLACK
9133 INTAKE SCRN-1"1800-10
New pipe on the right, old on the left. They sell the pipe in 16.5" length. I'll trim it to the final size I need. Also will add a cable loop as a pull tab similar to the factory one.
Similar to the old pipe I sanded down about an inch of the pipe where it will slip into the drain. Fits perfectly!
I hope this information can help someone in the future fast track their search!
Cheers.