What size prop on a Bluewater 2350 with a DF300?

Kevinwwings2Kevinwwings2 Posts: 1,268 Officer
I have a 2003 Bluewater 2350, a 2010 Suzuki 300hp on it. I am currently running a Suzuki 3x16x20 pitch prop in SS. It only tops out about 5500-5600 rpm and is quite slow to get up on plane. I have no doubt I am over propped. The next option in is the same prop in a 18.5 pitch, but from what I read that should only give me about 150 maybe 200 rpm, still not getting me to the 6,000 rpm max on this motor. FYI I tend to keep my fuel and water tank full, and don't usually travel light.
I am considering going to a 4 blade prop, hearing I will get a lower plane speed and more stern lift, whciH I think would both be a bonus. I don't run around at WOT, so the slightly lower WOT is not an issue. Most if my time is spent either idling or around 4,000-4,500 rpm. I don't see any 16" 4 blade props, so what happens if I go to a 15" prop. How do I compare the pitch on a 16 vs a 15 inch prop?
I belive in the newer 2350's they are mounting the bracket higher than they did in the 2003 models. I don't think my engine is much too low, but may be just a touch. While up on plane and trimmed I can walk back and see the top of the cavitation plate.
I also read somewhere that the 16" Suzuki props have alot of slippage, I find that hard to believe over a 15" prop, now drag there maybe a bunch, but slip??
Thank you for any input..


  • dhadleydhadley Posts: 53 Deckhand
    If you think the motor is mounted too low try raising it up a hole or two and see what changes. Set up is everything. No need to spend money on a prop until you max out the set up with the current baseline prop.
  • Kevinwwings2Kevinwwings2 Posts: 1,268 Officer
    I wish I could just raise it a hole or two, but it is already raised as far as it can go. In order to lift it any further I would have to go with a Jack plate of one sort of another. I really don't think that is much of an option as the boat already is tending to A$$ heavy. The last thing I want to do is add more weight to the back and move the engine back another 4-8 inches depending on the plate. My only other option is to raise the whole bracket, which is not easy or cheep to do. I got an estimate to raise a new bracket so I could mount twins before I went with the single 300, and it was like $3400, or something like that. Needless to say that is why I have a single 300 instead of twin 150's. Thanks for the reply though.
  • dhadleydhadley Posts: 53 Deckhand
    Take a look at Bob's 4 in 1 convertible plate. Manual plate , not a lot of weight and turned in it's only about 3.5" setback. Might be a low cost option.....
  • Kevinwwings2Kevinwwings2 Posts: 1,268 Officer
    I am looking into things like that. I am gonna take some pictures of my Cavitation plate running first and pass it around some that really know before I get too much further into this..
    Thanks for the info.
  • Buccanr1Buccanr1 Posts: 437 Deckhand
    One other thing, a general rule of thumb is the plate should be 1" higher than the keel for every 12" of setback from the actual transom of the boat. This is important for those of us with brackets.
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