Since we are talking about braided loops, If you don't use braided loops on your clear Cortland or Monice lines what do you use?
I use to use a clear Monic 12 wt line years ago, I tied every kind of knot know to man kind to keep the butt section connected to the line, Every time I hooked a Tarpon and pulled on it hard I would lose the tip of the line and the whole shooting match. Finally I put a braided loop on the tip and these problems were solved for good. I also take my butt sections and put a braided loop on them too, that way you don't have any knots at all in your fly line tip or leader sections, very slick......somehow I can't understand why most people wouldn't want to have the best-strongest connections in there fly line system and be knot free.
If anybody wants me to explain how to do that, just ask.
Gudebrod, in 30 pound and 50 pound is very available now, somebody bought the Company is what I heard.
I also agree with you about the Cortland braid.
I make my regular loops about 5 inches long, when I make loops for mono, they are 10 inches long.
Since all my heavier rods (10wt on up) are set up with intermediate lines (including one old monocore "slime line") I've have my share of issues in the line to leader and line to backing connection. What I finally came up with is to only use double or triple nail knots... I use a heavy leader butt that's double nail knotted to the line for a permanent butt section (on a 12wt it's at least five feet of sixty pound mono with a simple surgeon's loop at the bitter end). The end that connects to the backing is just doubled back on itself to form a small loop, permanently done with three small nail knots (with 15 or 20lb mono, each nail knot a half inch from the next, the very end of the fly line trimmed right to the knot at a 45 angle to pass through the guides without hanging. Like many I still coat each knot with Pliobond for a bit more abrasion resistance. Since I use a pretty small loop in the fly line my backing is set up with a large loop (big enough to pass a fly reel through...). Hope this helps - by the way I long ago figured out that any place where you really need to use a clear fly line .... should be left alone. I much prefer fishing areas where the fish aren't afraid of their own shadows (that might be one of the reasons I fish the 'Glades for big tarpon....).
I had my own issues with the Monic fly lines, not only breaking them but with lots of memory problems. Sure, they gave me the stuff dirt cheap or free, but it wasn't worth it. there history in my book, the Cortland clear lines have there own problems however I can deal with them and they work for what I do. I install a 50 # braided loop at each end.
In Mexico the fishing can go from absolutely stupid to PHD in a few minutes. Soon as the Dorado gets semi Jaded I have had the Dorado come up and "nose" my fly, push it around, sort of play with it, and still not bite. The Roosters are even worse if there not chasing bait.....I'll take a clear line and a challenge any day.
I used to use a system similar to what your doing Bob, However I have found that the loop was easier and stronger. Each fisherman needs to fish with what makes him comfortable and has confidence in. I think everybody knows that Bob Lemay has been around forever and is one of the top Tarpon guides in Florida, I'm sure your system works great for you.