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Rod locker hatch springs

mbowersmbowers Posts: 496 Deckhand
I added some T-H Marine 20lb stainless springs (T-H Marine Cable Hatch Spring HS-1C-DP) to the rod lockers so they lock in the upright position just like the old 189 used to with the click-sticks. I used 1 1/4" aluminum angle, #8 bolts. Pretty quick install and the rod lockers are a dream to use again. No worries about rod locker crashing down while unloading a rod in lumpy seas, can leave the lockers open to dry without overhanging the rub rail, can mount a battery operated light on the underside of the hatch to light it up and the rod lockers don't rub on the bimini top hardware either.

What a happy upgrade! The springs are easier to use than the click-sticks too. Hopefully my fishing partners won't be able to break the springs as fast as they could break click-sticks!

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Replies

  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    mbowers wrote: »
    I added some T-H Marine 20lb stainless springs (T-H Marine Cable Hatch Spring HS-1C-DP) to the rod lockers so they lock in the upright position just like the old 189 used to with the click-sticks. I used 1 1/4" aluminum angle, #8 bolts. Pretty quick install and the rod lockers are a dream to use again. No worries about rod locker crashing down while unloading a rod in lumpy seas, can leave the lockers open to dry without overhanging the rub rail, can mount a battery operated light on the underside of the hatch to light it up and the rod lockers don't rub on the bimini top hardware either.

    What a happy upgrade! The springs are easier to use than the click-sticks too. Hopefully my fishing partners won't be able to break the springs as fast as they could break click-sticks!

    2013-12-13_10-15-24_171.jpg

    Make sure you pull them toward the center of the boat when you want to close the lid. That way they don't kink in the middle. Once they get a kink the are not as strong. Tight Lines... Pete
  • Egrets LandingEgrets Landing Posts: 949 Officer
    The springs were in use for those hatches way prior to click sticks probably going back the first egret boats made. The click sticks I guess were supposed to be an upgrade but I tried them and they broke quickly. Its not a good design. I prefer the springs and they last for many years. I don't know why they ever went to those sticks.
    I went to gas shocks on the front hatches and on the seat and that is much nicer than the springs. In fact, using the spring on the heavy bench seat hatch was dangerous. I use the springs on the live well hatches and the rod lockers.
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    The springs were in use for those hatches way prior to click sticks probably going back the first egret boats made. The click sticks I guess were supposed to be an upgrade but I tried them and they broke quickly. Its not a good design. I prefer the springs and they last for many years. I don't know why they ever went to those sticks.
    I went to gas shocks on the front hatches and on the seat and that is much nicer than the springs. In fact, using the spring on the heavy bench seat hatch was dangerous. I use the springs on the live well hatches and the rod lockers.

    We got away from the springs because the would get kinked if the lid was closed by pushing the spring away from the console. Once they got kinked they would in some instances not hold up the hatch and come slamming down. So Scott got the click sticks but soon the folks were pulling the hatch beyond the limit of the click stick anf they broke too.

    I still have the original springs on my boat. I just find myself always reminding people to pull them toward the console before closing the rod locker hatch. Tight lines...Pete
  • seavee05seavee05 Posts: 42 Greenhorn
    My apologies for the thread hi jack, but this is on the same topic. I've had the gas hatch lifts to do my 189 c/k for some time but am having a hard time mocking up the install. I purchased 15" 40lb attwood in s.s., as suggested by another Egret owner. My plan is to put 2 on the helm seat hatch, and 1 on each of the 3 (Florida Egret) front hatches. As I said I haven't been able to do a mock up to get the geometry right. When I clamp up the hatch lift, it seems like I'm putting uneven pressure on the jam proof hinges. It just doesn't feel right.
    In addition, the 40lbs of lift seem like overkill for these light hatches. Since I can't bring myself to drill holes in the the carbon fiber and compromise the core material even though I know there were holes drilled for the hinges. I plan to epoxy black starboard blocks to the hatches and use them as mounting blocks. I also considered mounting the lifts at the centerline of the hatch (I've seen this done on Yellowfins). I know some of you have considered this upgrade one the best improvements you've done, and I'd love to get your input on the best way to proceed. Thank you ahead of time.

    @mbowers- I like the look of your non-skid, is that original, or did you refinish it? Hatch springs look good too.

    In closing, I'd to wish the entire Egret family "Happy Holidays and All the Best for the coming year".

    Best Regards,
    Dan Maddock
    5l8lqw.jpg
  • Carolina FlyCarolina Fly Posts: 71 Deckhand
    I'll admit I don't know what a click stick is, anybody have a photo?
    Dan, I would think PVC or fiberglass board would be better to epoxy to the lid to screw into. Glue doesn't stick as well to polyethylene things like Starboard. here is just one option: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8758
  • mtd885mtd885 Posts: 1,159 Officer
    Make sure you pull them toward the center of the boat when you want to close the lid. That way they don't kink in the middle. Once they get a kink the are not as strong. Tight Lines... Pete

    Sure, now you tell me!:bang head I have to replace my starboard side spring. It’s kinkier than me and like me, cannot hold up the rod locker while I whip out my rod.:fishing
  • mbowersmbowers Posts: 496 Deckhand
    We got away from the springs because the would get kinked if the lid was closed by pushing the spring away from the console. Once they got kinked they would in some instances not hold up the hatch and come slamming down. So Scott got the click sticks but soon the folks were pulling the hatch beyond the limit of the click stick anf they broke too.

    I still have the original springs on my boat. I just find myself always reminding people to pull them toward the console before closing the rod locker hatch. Tight lines...Pete

    I think the click-sticks have a little advantage over the springs in that just bumping the stick doesn't trigger the hatch to drop like bumping the spring does. But heavy handed hatch users will certainly break click-sticks repeatedly.

    Do you have a limiting cable inside the spring Pete? The model I installed have a heavy cable inside the spring which might prevent the spring from getting into a kinky position. Time will tell if the springs last but for now I'm much happier with something in there.

    I can't find a picture online of the click-sticks, Imagine a two piece fishing rod (6" sections) with a bungy cord down the middle. You can fold it in half at the joint to close the hatch but when you pull the two pieces apart the bungee cord tries to pull them back together so that they wedge into a single long piece that keeps the hatch open. It has some good design features but the bungee cord would wear out, the plastic attachments would fatigue and clumsy users would just rip the hatch open and destroy the sticks as Pete mentioned.

    My non-skid is factory upgrade to two-tone. I really like the color, I really do not like how smooth the non skid is and it's apparently the extra rough version. I will be redoing that myself in a while with Kiwi-Grip I expect.
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    mbowers wrote: »
    I think the click-sticks have a little advantage over the springs in that just bumping the stick doesn't trigger the hatch to drop like bumping the spring does. But heavy handed hatch users will certainly break click-sticks repeatedly.

    Do you have a limiting cable inside the spring Pete? The model I installed have a heavy cable inside the spring which might prevent the spring from getting into a kinky position. Time will tell if the springs last but for now I'm much happier with something in there.

    The springs that I have do not have the limiting cable....Pete
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