I do NOT recommend using a Snap Swivel. I tie the line to a Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel) & the Hooks attach to the Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel). I have a HD Split Ring attached to the Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel) & the Jig is attached to the Split Ring. I use Split Ring Pliers (if needed) to change Jigs (leaving the leader tied to the Solid Ring/Barrel Swivel). This utilizes a design perk where the line is attached to the Hooks (& indirectly to the Jig) so the fish can't use the Jig to torque the hooks loose...
I think most people who 'Jig' a lot do it this way...
There should be NO Commercial Fishing for any fish species considered 'Over-fished' , 'Undergoing Overfishing' or Subject to Recreational Seasons, Limits, or Closures... Game Fish Status IS the Answer !!!
I'm a little different in that I always use snap swivels on my main line so I can have multiple jigs rigged up and ready to swap. The jigs I rig like this:
Jig>3ft 60# mono leader>barrel swivel.
Others prefer tying the leader directly to the mainline. I am not fast at tying knots at sea, so I will continue to do it my way.
Do whatever makes you comfortable.
I do NOT recommend using a Snap Swivel. I tie the line to a Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel) & the Hooks attach to the Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel). I have a HD Split Ring attached to the Solid Ring (or Barrel Swivel) & the Jig is attached to the Split Ring. I use Split Ring Pliers (if needed) to change Jigs (leaving the leader tied to the Solid Ring/Barrel Swivel). This utilizes a design perk where the line is attached to the Hooks (buy indirectly to the Jig) so the fish can't use the Jig to torque the hooks loose...
I think most people who 'Jig' a lot do it this way...
This x2
braid to Fluoro leader using uni-uni knot then the leader is tied directly to a solid ring (some jigs come with them, some will not) and then the ring is attached to the split rings.
I will admit, I suck with split ring pliers (no idea why) and I rarely switch jigs out ON THE WATER using them. I usually just cut and re-tie when changing colors/weights. I know, it sounds lame but I find it easier and almost faster while on the kayak. Maybe I just have a bad pair of pliers....
I'm a little different in that I always use snap swivels on my main line so I can have multiple jigs rigged up and ready to swap. The jigs I rig like this:
Jig>3ft 60# mono leader>barrel swivel.
So you're always using a snap swivel ----> barrel swivel connection while jigging? I understand your point with tying knots at sea, having jigs ready etc. However, that connection makes me nervous for any rig let alone one that goes through the rigors of high speed jigging.
Have you thought about tying a loop knot in your leader on one end as opposed to the barrel swivel? As you said, "do what makes you comfortable" but it may be an option to cut down on the amount of (1)terminal tackle and (2) Breaking points of the line
I like to use swivels on butterfly jigs. It spins more freely on it's way down and I can just hold it still in the water column and let the current spin it around like a spoon.
I tie the main line to the solid ring. Then solid ring->split ring->swivel->split ring. You can use a snap swivel too if you want, it doesn't matter. You don't tie the main line to a snap swivel, but attaching just the jig blade is fine.
So you're always using a snap swivel ----> barrel swivel connection while jigging? I understand your point with tying knots at sea, having jigs ready etc. However, that connection makes me nervous for any rig let alone one that goes through the rigors of high speed jigging.
Have you thought about tying a loop knot in your leader on one end as opposed to the barrel swivel? As you said, "do what makes you comfortable" but it may be an option to cut down on the amount of (1)terminal tackle and (2) Breaking points of the line
Just an idea
You know, I never thought to do that, I'll try my next round of jigs that way.
While vertical jigging I've had a few snap swivels open when I got a hit (or while fighting fish) & I lost the jig (& some people would lose everything the way they rig, but my hook was attached to the barrel, not the snap). That's why I don't use them...
There should be NO Commercial Fishing for any fish species considered 'Over-fished' , 'Undergoing Overfishing' or Subject to Recreational Seasons, Limits, or Closures... Game Fish Status IS the Answer !!!
Learn ur knots and keep it clean and simple, just watch ur catch ratio increase. The more crap u add the more possibility for tackle failure.
X2. I have more faith in my knots than a snap swivel. I've used snaps for trolling spoons/plugs on boats and reeled fish in and noticed the snap came unhooked somehow, don't know how exactly. That never happens with my knots...
X2. I have more faith in my knots than a snap swivel. I've used snaps for trolling spoons/plugs on boats and reeled fish in and noticed the snap came unhooked somehow, don't know how exactly. That never happens with my knots...
Same here, the only time I use snaps is when I don't want a bait to spin (i.e. a loop knot) such as a spoon. Also, while trolling (on powerboats) it's nice to have a nice big 'ole snap on the main line to easily swap out wire leaders, lures etc. I've seen snaps open up while bass fishing, it just happens sometimes which is 90% of the reason why I try not to use them anymore.
On the kayak, I never use a swivel unless I'm running a stinger ring (main line > mono shock leader > SPRO swivel > stinger rig)
Vertical jigging, it's just a straight uni-uni knot to 40-50lb fluoro and then I tie the jig to the solid ring. I'd much rather lose a fish to a poorly tied knot (which is rare) because it would be MY fault as opposed to equipment failure such as a swivel opening. I like to tie a REALLY long leader in the beginning of the day and just cut it down as the day progresses. I do the same thing in the backcountry with jigheads/jerkbaits/etc
Hey I have a question on swivels when verticle jigging. Are you guys using them or just retying them on leader?
Not on the topic of swivels here as I believe in tying directly to leader but was curious about what everyone prefers as far as the lb test for braid that they are using on their vertical jigging setup. I've seen a lot of people say they use 50lb diamond braid or equivalent, but also have seen quite a few people also using 30lb braid. My first time jigging last week I was using 20lb braid with a 50lb Fluoro leader on a 5000 series Penn and it handled a pretty decent sized cobia no problem. Is there reason to change this setup? I'm looking to pick up a dedicated jigging reel this weekend so that's why I ask before I spool it with something and realize I wasted money on braid that was too light or too heavy
When I started out, I was under-gunned with 15# braid and 30# leader. I lost some good kingfish that summer. Its probably good to use a braid strength a bit stronger than your drag rating. Now I use 40# braid and 60# leader and although its less "sporting" I think its just about right for my tastes. Braid isnt invincible though, check to make sure your line doesnt get frayed or you may lose the big one when it hits. I lost my only sailfish that way at the beginning of this year :-(
Not on the topic of swivels here as I believe in tying directly to leader but was curious about what everyone prefers as far as the lb test for braid that they are using on their vertical jigging setup. I've seen a lot of people say they use 50lb diamond braid or equivalent, but also have seen quite a few people also using 30lb braid. My first time jigging last week I was using 20lb braid with a 50lb Fluoro leader on a 5000 series Penn and it handled a pretty decent sized cobia no problem. Is there reason to change this setup? I'm looking to pick up a dedicated jigging reel this weekend so that's why I ask before I spool it with something and realize I wasted money on braid that was too light or too heavy
That is a good set up for that size reel. nice outfit for tuna and kings. You will be out gunned fishing for AJ around wreaks.
I got cut off twice the other day anybody using wire leader while jigging? I use braid => uniknot =>#80 mono => barrel swivel => split ring. I can just change jigs by the split ring. Lets the jig spin.
The more u stress ur split rings(by adding pressure with pliers) the weaker they get, while fighting a fish u can loose ur hooks and fish. Just learn to tie a knot.
The more u stress ur split rings(by adding pressure with pliers) the weaker they get, while fighting a fish u can loose ur hooks and fish. Just learn to tie a knot.
Learn ur knots and keep it clean and simple, just watch ur catch ratio increase. The more crap u add the more possibility for tackle failure.
Couldnt have said it better. Tie off to a solid ring w your assist hooks and just change jigs w split ring practice its a snap and quicker than tying a knot.
Ol Sarge
Posts: 290 Deckhand
Replies
I think most people who 'Jig' a lot do it this way...
Jig>3ft 60# mono leader>barrel swivel.
Others prefer tying the leader directly to the mainline. I am not fast at tying knots at sea, so I will continue to do it my way.
Do whatever makes you comfortable.
This x2
braid to Fluoro leader using uni-uni knot then the leader is tied directly to a solid ring (some jigs come with them, some will not) and then the ring is attached to the split rings.
I will admit, I suck with split ring pliers (no idea why) and I rarely switch jigs out ON THE WATER using them. I usually just cut and re-tie when changing colors/weights. I know, it sounds lame but I find it easier and almost faster while on the kayak. Maybe I just have a bad pair of pliers....
So you're always using a snap swivel ----> barrel swivel connection while jigging? I understand your point with tying knots at sea, having jigs ready etc. However, that connection makes me nervous for any rig let alone one that goes through the rigors of high speed jigging.
Have you thought about tying a loop knot in your leader on one end as opposed to the barrel swivel? As you said, "do what makes you comfortable" but it may be an option to cut down on the amount of (1)terminal tackle and (2) Breaking points of the line
Just an idea
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>
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I tie the main line to the solid ring. Then solid ring->split ring->swivel->split ring. You can use a snap swivel too if you want, it doesn't matter. You don't tie the main line to a snap swivel, but attaching just the jig blade is fine.
You know, I never thought to do that, I'll try my next round of jigs that way.
X2. I have more faith in my knots than a snap swivel. I've used snaps for trolling spoons/plugs on boats and reeled fish in and noticed the snap came unhooked somehow, don't know how exactly. That never happens with my knots...
Same here, the only time I use snaps is when I don't want a bait to spin (i.e. a loop knot) such as a spoon. Also, while trolling (on powerboats) it's nice to have a nice big 'ole snap on the main line to easily swap out wire leaders, lures etc. I've seen snaps open up while bass fishing, it just happens sometimes which is 90% of the reason why I try not to use them anymore.
On the kayak, I never use a swivel unless I'm running a stinger ring (main line > mono shock leader > SPRO swivel > stinger rig)
Vertical jigging, it's just a straight uni-uni knot to 40-50lb fluoro and then I tie the jig to the solid ring. I'd much rather lose a fish to a poorly tied knot (which is rare) because it would be MY fault as opposed to equipment failure such as a swivel opening. I like to tie a REALLY long leader in the beginning of the day and just cut it down as the day progresses. I do the same thing in the backcountry with jigheads/jerkbaits/etc
South Florida Chapter Coordinator
https://www.facebook.com/HOWSouthFloridaChapter
"Helping find peace for those who fought to defend it!" :USA
FREEDOM CAPTURED!
FSU Alumni GO NOLES!!! >>
>
2013 Hobie Outback
Not on the topic of swivels here as I believe in tying directly to leader but was curious about what everyone prefers as far as the lb test for braid that they are using on their vertical jigging setup. I've seen a lot of people say they use 50lb diamond braid or equivalent, but also have seen quite a few people also using 30lb braid. My first time jigging last week I was using 20lb braid with a 50lb Fluoro leader on a 5000 series Penn and it handled a pretty decent sized cobia no problem. Is there reason to change this setup? I'm looking to pick up a dedicated jigging reel this weekend so that's why I ask before I spool it with something and realize I wasted money on braid that was too light or too heavy
http://www.youtube.com/user/Liltuccii/videos
Log your trips and help the SGF with accurate stock assessments, great site
http://angleraction.org
That is a good set up for that size reel. nice outfit for tuna and kings. You will be out gunned fishing for AJ around wreaks.
:Agree
http://www.youtube.com/user/Liltuccii/videos
Log your trips and help the SGF with accurate stock assessments, great site
http://angleraction.org
Couldnt have said it better. Tie off to a solid ring w your assist hooks and just change jigs w split ring practice its a snap and quicker than tying a knot.