Tarpon line

I've always have used mono when fishing for tarpon. I only fish the beaches and in the river and like it for the stretch. generaly I stick to 40-30 pound test. Just wondering what others use and how it works for them. Everything else I use has braid on it (except flyrods :cool:). Looking for input. Thanks.

Replies

  • kmagnusskmagnuss Posts: 2,875 Captain
    Funny... I was just asking a buddy of mine what was better for tarpon a few days back. I know jack squat about tarpon... but it would make sense to me that a little stretch would be advantageous when they jump, in case you don't 'bow' in time. He said it's harder to get a good hook-set with mono... which I guess makes sense also.

    I'm curious what the more knowledgeable people will say.
    Tarpon... everything else is just bait.
    Captain Keith Magnussen - Crooked Rod Charters
    Instagram is @crooked_rod_charters
  • red_magnetred_magnet Posts: 498 Deckhand
    We use braid and mono or floro leader. 60 lb leader and 50 lb braid which is like 12 lb mono equivalent, on 7000 or 8000 series reel w/ a star 8' handcrafted rod. the trick is when you tie the two together you have to double or trip up the braid to make it thicker. IF not the braid will slice through the leader no problem. We have caught 100 lb + fish this way. Floating off venice beach, pass crabs on larger popping corks 7/0 owner circle hooks.
    I owe it all to my Granny and Bill Dance....
  • sirfersirfer Sarasota, FLPosts: 107 Deckhand
    I use 50lb braid and ~8' of 65lb fluoro leader for all my tarpon fishing whether off the beach or around the bridges. I could see how the stretch of mono would be advantageous during the fight but I feel braid aids feel during the hookset.
  • capeanglercapeangler Posts: 586 Officer
    sirfer wrote: »
    I use 50lb braid and ~8' of 65lb fluoro leader for all my tarpon fishing whether off the beach or around the bridges. I could see how the stretch of mono would be advantageous during the fight but I feel braid aids feel during the hookset.

    I use Cabo 60's with #65 Braid with #80 fluro leader. #60 fluro is a little light on fish in the #100-#150+ category (Lost many fish using #60). #65 Braid helps to keep the fight down to 10-15 minutes on #100 class fish.
  • Shark bittenShark bitten Posts: 209 Officer
    I use 65 braid with a 35 ft section top shot of yozuri hybrid florocarbon / mono as my main line then use 4 ft section of floor leader. Dbl up the braid with uni to uni and then uni to uni the leader to mono. The yozuri hybrid is a great top shot with just enough forgiveness and stretch without sacrificing light bites or feel. And if the fish desires to run a mile you have plenty of line compasity from the braid also without so much line drag or belly a straight mono main line adds.
  • Shark bittenShark bitten Posts: 209 Officer
    Sebile has a pretty interesting line to line knot that I may start using. Looks to be a little work thou. Has a lot of surface are between the braid and mono or leader. Anyone try it yet?
  • sirfersirfer Sarasota, FLPosts: 107 Deckhand
    capeangler wrote: »
    I use Cabo 60's with #65 Braid with #80 fluro leader. #60 fluro is a little light on fish in the #100-#150+ category (Lost many fish using #60). #65 Braid helps to keep the fight down to 10-15 minutes on #100 class fish.

    65lb mainline to 80lb fluoro used to be my go-to setup, I just got tired of tying the 80lb. In my limited experience though it doesn't seem that I've experienced any more break-off's or that the length of the fight has increased substantially. I use Saltist 6000's and Stella 10000's so even with a hefty amount of drag it all seems to hold up well.
  • CaptainBlyCaptainBly Posts: 1,967 Captain
    Traditional drop reels I use 50 pound mono to a spider hitch then a 60 or 80 lb peace of leader, usually 5' longish. I have used flouro and traditional mono for leaders. For spinning I have 65 lb braid to the same type of leader.
    In Loving Memory of James Zielske, January 19, 1957-July 5, 2013
  • Captain_AhabCaptain_Ahab Posts: 39 Deckhand
    The Sebile knot works great, I used this knot all of last year for Tarpon season. 65lb power pro sebile knotted to #80 fluro shock leader
  • TarponatorTarponator Under a BridgePosts: 11,348 AG
    I use both mono and braid for tarpon depending on the situation.

    I use mono when fishing vertically in passes and braid everywhere else. I've not noticed a significant difference in fish landed on either method, if anything the braid seems to hold fish a bit better (but, admittedly, there's a big weight on my vertically-fished mono rods, which could be throwing things off).

    I use circle hooks almost exclusively, so stretch on the hookset (which is virtually nonexistent and really done more out of habit) doesn't really play into the equation for me.
  • Gary S. ColecchioGary S. Colecchio Posts: 24,922 AG
    For the live bait pitch rod: 20# Fireline, 4' bimini, uni-uni to 5' 60# fluoro , to 18" 80# fluoro.

    For conventional free line: 40# braid, 4' bimini , offshore swivel knot to 80# micro swivel, improved clinch to 5' 60# fluoro , red bead , 4" foam float , red bead , small rubber band, uni-uni to 18" 80# fluoro.
    "If I can't win, I won't play." - Doris Colecchio.

    "Well Gary, the easiest way to look tall is to stand in a room full of short people." - Curtis Bostick

    "All these forums, with barely any activity, are like a neglected old cemetery that no one visits anymore."- anonymouse
  • capeanglercapeangler Posts: 586 Officer
    For conventional free line: 40# braid, 4' bimini , offshore swivel knot to 80# micro swivel, improved clinch to 5' 60# fluoro , red bead , 4" foam float , red bead , small rubber band, uni-uni to 18" 80# fluoro.

    Way too complicated
  • LGILGI Posts: 348 Officer
    capeangler wrote: »
    Way too complicated

    What did you expect, it's Gary's rig. He likes to make things more complicated than they need to be.
  • Gary S. ColecchioGary S. Colecchio Posts: 24,922 AG
    capeangler wrote: »
    Way too complicated

    Not for me. I can tell you about my 11 wt. systems if you want.
    "If I can't win, I won't play." - Doris Colecchio.

    "Well Gary, the easiest way to look tall is to stand in a room full of short people." - Curtis Bostick

    "All these forums, with barely any activity, are like a neglected old cemetery that no one visits anymore."- anonymouse
  • Captain_AhabCaptain_Ahab Posts: 39 Deckhand
    Not for me. I can tell you about my 11 wt. systems if you want.

    Please do, I just picked up a 12 wt this year and I'm curious on how to rig my leaders.
  • TrevfishinTrevfishin Posts: 587 Officer
    I've debated with quite a few on this and I understand the theory behind not using hardware, but I haven't been able to justify it. So what I normally do is use a snap swivel that the end of my braid with a Palomar Knot. I then pre-make leaders depending on hook size or lure size and tie a surgeons loops knot on the other end. The length of the leader is also determined on what I'm after as well. 6ft for Tarpon (80-100lb leader), 3-4ft (30-40lb leader) for everything else. This helps in switching hooks and lures out. My larger spinning reels have 80lb power pro and my smaller have 20lb power pro. Yes, I still learned how to tie the uni to uni knot as I have some spliced on one of my reels and it has held quite nicely. I'm just cheap like that...
  • Joey ButtonsJoey Buttons Posts: 11,849 AG
    Way too much.......Those stupid fish can be caught using just about anything.


    I use 40# power pro and 5' of 60 # fluoro.

    Never had a problem catching them
    FSU is the best football team of all time!
  • Gary S. ColecchioGary S. Colecchio Posts: 24,922 AG
    OK

    20" 40# fluoro nail knoted to fly line, coated with Pliobond with a bimini loop at the end . this is your basic line/ butt section to loop to loop your leaders.

    I use two:

    'Homeboy' - 5' 20# fluoro, bimini loop at butt section, uni-uni to 18" 80# fluoro.

    'Turnover' - 3' 30# fluoro , bimini loop at butt section, uni-uni to 2' 20# fluoro, uni-uni to 18'' 80# fluoro.
    "If I can't win, I won't play." - Doris Colecchio.

    "Well Gary, the easiest way to look tall is to stand in a room full of short people." - Curtis Bostick

    "All these forums, with barely any activity, are like a neglected old cemetery that no one visits anymore."- anonymouse
  • capeanglercapeangler Posts: 586 Officer
    Trevfishin wrote: »
    I've debated with quite a few on this and I understand the using hardware, but I haven't been able to justify it. So what I normally do is use a snap swivel that the end of my braid with a Palomar Knot. I then pre-make leaders depending on hook size or lure size and tie a surgeons loops knot on the other end. The length of the leader is also determined on what I'm after as well. 6ft for Tarpon (80-100lb leader), 3-4ft (30-40lb leader) for everything else. This

    Works (I Guess) until:

    Top 11 Reasons why you should not use a snap swivel:
    1. Mackerel or Bluefish homes in on your snap or bubble trail and cuts you off
    2. Target Fish sees the snap or the debris tangled around your snap and passes on your bait
    3. You snag something in your boat because you are trailing 6'-8' of leader & line behind you (Tarpon)
    4. You snag a tree/dock/angler in close quarters because you are trailing 4-5' of leader (Backcountry)
    5. Can't quite get a bait to skip under anything because of a long leader
    6. Can't quite get a bait far enough because you are dangling too much leader (Need 3-10" to effectively skip)
    7. You spook a redfish or snook, etc., because your snap lands a little to close to the fish you just sight casted to; or you reeled the snap swivel across the path of an unseen fish.
    8. Wasting too much fluro material because you just cant trim off the chewed up section near the hook and retie, because now your hook is too close to your snap
    9. You chipped a guide because you (Or someone else) just reeled in the swivel or snap through your top eye
    10. You wasted 25 minutes trying to undo a massive tangle your white bait made after swimming in circles on a semi slack line, and now all of that braid is wrapped all over your swivel or snap swivel (Braid users who fish a lot know exactly what I'm talking about).
    11. Accuracy; you just cant seem to get that lure or bait where you want it because you are dangling too much leader

    Personally, I don't see any advantages to a snap vs a uni. One can make an argument; 100% breaking point (Snap) vs. 95% (Uni), but then again, aren't the other two knows (Hook & Swivel) @ 90-95%?; AND quick change of leaders. But then again, I can tie on a new hook and attach braid to leader in about the same time as it takes to unwind a leader and snap a new one on.............seconds.
  • TrevfishinTrevfishin Posts: 587 Officer
    No, really, tell us how you really feel Capeangler ;). Yep, like I said, I grasp the theory of it all, however, it is easier for me while sitting in my yak to just snap change and continue fishing. As far as casting goes, you learn how to handle that extra bit of leader. When using the longer leaders I'm generally float fishing or slow trolling, so I don't have to worry about casting. However, I am all to familiar with the massive tangle the bait has caused swiming in slow circles around the yak. Quite frankly I'm still learning about how to make sure that doesn't happen! Like you said, it's a personal preference and I"m sure when I retire and actually spend more time on the water, I will have mastered the knots! And if my hook was too close to my snap, then it's time to switch out to a new leader anyways. I do use the smallest swivel possible without risking breakage.
  • capeanglercapeangler Posts: 586 Officer
    Trevfishin wrote: »
    No, really, tell us how you really feel Capeangler ;). Yep, like I said, I grasp the theory of it all, however, it is easier for me while sitting in my yak to just snap change and continue fishing. As far as casting goes, you learn how to handle that extra bit of leader. When using the longer leaders I'm generally float fishing or slow trolling, so I don't have to worry about casting. However, I am all to familiar with the massive tangle the bait has caused swiming in slow circles around the yak. Quite frankly I'm still learning about how to make sure that doesn't happen! Like you said, it's a personal preference and I"m sure when I retire and actually spend more time on the water, I will have mastered the knots! And if my hook was too close to my snap, then it's time to switch out to a new leader anyways. I do use the smallest swivel possible without risking breakage.

    You are absolutely correct, it's a matter of preference. Personally, I don't think I could cast anything out of a Yak using a 4-6-8' leader.
  • LcmaglichLcmaglich Posts: 19 Greenhorn
    Keep it simple, 50lb suffix braid will allow you to cast much further than mono tied directly to 60-80lb flouro leader depending on water clarity uni to uni knot...IMO with circle hooks braid helps get a stronger hookset as there is no stretch...once again just my opinion
  • CalusaCalusa Posts: 11,881 Officer
    Elvis Presley once caught a Tarpon on a cane pole, 30' of dacron and a diaper pin. :)
    FS Forum member since January 4, 2003
    Member #12478
    Not a Jew
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