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Action Shots?

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  • GuidenetGuidenet Senior Member OrlandoPosts: 239 Officer
    bmarkey wrote: »
    I rule I was taught was that your shutter speed should be twice (or close to it) the focus length of the lens. So, a 200 mm lens should be used at 1/400 shutter speed or greater. Of course, that can't always happen and was set before IS.

    Indoors for sports such as basketball, 1/400 is barely enough to stop action.

    http://www.diyphotography.net/shutter-speed

    Yeah, there are so many various rules floating around about this. I was taught the reciprocal but some taught one and a half or twice like you. I think it's just some general rule to give some new person an idea on where they need to be. I can hand hold way slower and for action often go way higher. I think it all depends on the situation. :-)
    Nikon D800, D3S, D700, D300, Canon G1X, Sigma 15 f/2.8 Fisheye, Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6, Nikon 16-35 f/4 VR, Nikon 28 f/1.8G AFS, Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 AFS VR, Nikon 35 f/2, Nikon 50 f/1.8 G, Nikon 60 f/2.8 G Micro, Nikon 85 f/1.4 AFS G, Nikon 105 f/2.5 AI, Sigma 150 f/2.8 APO Macro, Nikon 300 f/2.8 AFS VR, Nikon 500 f/4 -P, Interfit Stellar X complete six light studio
  • GermGerm Senior Member Tampa, FLPosts: 1,704 Captain
    It does depend on the look you are going for too
  • mississippi macmississippi mac Senior Member Ocean Springs, Ms. (da coast)Posts: 4,222 Captain
    Craig...
    Guidenet wrote: »
    Yeah, there are so many various rules floating around about this. I was taught the reciprocal but some taught one and a half or twice like you. I think it's just some general rule to give some new person an idea on where they need to be. I can hand hold way slower and for action often go way higher. I think it all depends on the situation. :-)

    i was taught the same as you were....

    however, with the advent of IS lenses and bodies some of that goes out the window...
    i can say that i stay pretty close to the reciprocal of the lens, even with IS but sometimes have to modify to fit the conditions...

    tim
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    The Real White Dog

    if you can't catch a fish...catch a buzz....
    #12976, joined 8-17-2002
  • GuidenetGuidenet Senior Member OrlandoPosts: 239 Officer
    Craig...



    i was taught the same as you were....

    however, with the advent of IS lenses and bodies some of that goes out the window...
    i can say that i stay pretty close to the reciprocal of the lens, even with IS but sometimes have to modify to fit the conditions...

    tim

    Me too, Tim. For example, most birding I do at 1250th of a second just because I find I get a slight blur to the wing tips and the rest is sharp which I sort of like to show motion. When perched the whole bird is frozen at 1250th. I know that's a weird mid-stop speed, but I like it. At a full stop speed like 1000th, I get a little too much blur and at the next stop of 2000th, I don't get much if any. Anyway, I don't really pay much attention so long as it's up there and that's way more than the reciprocal like you and I were taught. It's even more than twice than the reciprocal.

    Even without IS/VR, I've often hand held successfully at a tenth of a second with my 85 f/1.4 on full frame. I just have to be careful and use good hand holding technique. It sometimes can reward you.

    I think any of these rules are good for starting off. It gives us all a good reference point to make us remember that as we move to a longer telephoto, we have to be more careful and as we move to a wider angle, we can shoot slower. Not a bad rule in the least. :-)
    Nikon D800, D3S, D700, D300, Canon G1X, Sigma 15 f/2.8 Fisheye, Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6, Nikon 16-35 f/4 VR, Nikon 28 f/1.8G AFS, Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 AFS VR, Nikon 35 f/2, Nikon 50 f/1.8 G, Nikon 60 f/2.8 G Micro, Nikon 85 f/1.4 AFS G, Nikon 105 f/2.5 AI, Sigma 150 f/2.8 APO Macro, Nikon 300 f/2.8 AFS VR, Nikon 500 f/4 -P, Interfit Stellar X complete six light studio
  • WaterEngineerWaterEngineer Senior Member Posts: 24,412 AG
    Guidenet wrote: »
    I don't really pay much attention so long as it's up there and that's way more than the reciprocal like you and I were taught.

    This.
  • mississippi macmississippi mac Senior Member Ocean Springs, Ms. (da coast)Posts: 4,222 Captain
    Craigs...

    I was out at horn island (one of our barrier islands) yesterday....
    the place was eat up with ducks and common mergansers...
    i got a few decent images and i usually stay a bump or two over 1000th for the same reasons...
    i also shoot most birds at iso 400 unless they are wading birds or perching that pause for seconds at a time...
    then i'll drop down to iso 200...
    don't often get a chance to drop down to iso 100....

    tim
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    The Real White Dog

    if you can't catch a fish...catch a buzz....
    #12976, joined 8-17-2002
  • GuidenetGuidenet Senior Member OrlandoPosts: 239 Officer
    You know, looking at Dave's (Flash) kids sport pictures and having him coach me a little really did make a difference in my style. He told me the key was making sure I caught a great expression on the kid's face and try to get the ball in the shot. Both these concepts are absolutely on the money and has made a fairly big difference in my kid's sports technique.
    Nikon D800, D3S, D700, D300, Canon G1X, Sigma 15 f/2.8 Fisheye, Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6, Nikon 16-35 f/4 VR, Nikon 28 f/1.8G AFS, Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 AFD, Nikon 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 AFS VR, Nikon 35 f/2, Nikon 50 f/1.8 G, Nikon 60 f/2.8 G Micro, Nikon 85 f/1.4 AFS G, Nikon 105 f/2.5 AI, Sigma 150 f/2.8 APO Macro, Nikon 300 f/2.8 AFS VR, Nikon 500 f/4 -P, Interfit Stellar X complete six light studio
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