OK, I replaced those ignition parts in my '89 F250

Calusa

Johnny - I loosened the battery terminal and lifted it off.

gandrfab

ReelingFandy wrote: »

You can bypass (jump) the solenoid, but I would not ground it unless you are trying to let the smoke out.

Sorry power to power on the solenoid.

Calusa

gandrfab wrote: »

Sorry power to power on the solenoid.

Please explain further, so I don't **** up the electrical, or so Mrs. Calusa don't have to call 911 to put myass out.

gandrfab

Calusa wrote: »

Please explain further, so I don't **** up the electrical, or so Mrs. Calusa don't have to call 911 to put myass out.

It is only 12 volts, if you don't have other health problems all it will do is surprise you if you get zapped.
(do not touch a power and a ground with your body or hands at the same time)


Large lug to large lug. The solenoid is just a switch that gets turned on from low power it clicks contacts together and the starter turns. Going lug to lug just checks if the switch is bad or not.

Calusa

Is there a chance the engine will start when I do this?

gandrfab

Calusa wrote: »

Is there a chance the engine will start when I do this?

With the key on it should, but you haven't fixed that problem yet.

gandrfab

with the key off or out, it should just crank.

acarb

Calusa wrote: »

Is there a chance the engine will start when I do this?

12 volts to the s terminal will spin the engine over but it should only crank if the key is in the run position. You can see the s marked on the solonoid.You can jump it with a srewdriver from the terminal to the pos side of the solonoid.

Calusa

OK. Acid test tonight. I'll report the results here.

johnnyb

wear your sunglasses...

CaptTater

lol.
GOod signature JB, just saw it.

Hey Calusa did you try a computer reset? Undo the ground for a few minutes and reconnect?

I had posted that i think Pup hacked Calusa's account but that's gone..?

Calusa

I turned the key in the ON position, and started it right up with a screwdriver jumping the solenoid pointsw.

What next?

CaptTater

You jumped the starter solenoid or the relay one as shown above. If the one above you need to know if it is getting 12V when the key is turned OR just replace it and see if it works.

Calusa

It's the one in the photo, on the fender well. How do I test it for 12v? It's a brand new battery btw.

CaptTater

The test light as described earlier while your husband turns the key. OR make a test light out of any 12V anything. Light, motor, adult toy, whatever you have on hand.

Calusa

LMAO!!!!!

So, I make a 12v thingy. Where do I touch the solenoid, and should the key be ON?

CaptTater

The little post on the solenoid that doesn't go to the ground. OR one part of the light to one post and one to the other. ONLY the little posts. That thing is a coil and makes a magnet when the key is START(that's the clicky spring loaded position that makes the truck go vroom vroom when you hold it). If it lights up the coil/magnet part is bad. If not it's before that such as the key or lockout.

CaptTater

Do you have any male neighbors?

johnnyb

:Spittingcoffee

CaptTater wrote: »

Do you have any male neighbors?

CaptTater

johnnyb wrote: »

:Spittingcoffee

I hear they are rare in the retirement communities.

Calusa

Ok ****. I tested the solenoid using my 12v trolling motor. I touched both bolts, the big ones, and Mrs. Calusa tried to start the truck. The prop turned with the key/start.

CaptTater

solenoid/relay, replace it. EZPZ.. I guess I should have mentioned don't put a motor that can draw 50 amps through the key switch. :rotflmao

Calusa

I touched the big bolts, not the small ones - does that matter?

If the prop turned when the key was in START - this means the part is shot?

CaptTater

Wait, where did you have the wires from the motor? If you had the + on one terminal of the relay and the - on the other big one and the trolling motor started you gots issues.
Spell out where you put the wires and what you did with the key.

CaptTater

Calusa

I touched one terminal from the trollong motor to one big bolt, the other terminal to the other big bolt. When my wife tried to start the truck the prop turned on.

Calusa

OOOOOPS!

Correction: Just tested it again with better lighting. Connected the troller just as above, to the big bolts, and the prop turned even with the key out of the ignition switch.

CaptTater

seriously? When you turn the key those two are connected together. That's the whole purpose. Take a low amperage load, the coil that the little bolts energize and have the key switch operate that the inside that relay a big heavy washer connects the big bolts together.
Here is one from a HOW IT WORKS thread I did way back.


The coil on the right is the little bolts


It pulls that big washer into contact with those big bolts. THose black contacts are what usually go out.



If you have + to one side of that relay and - to the other when you turn the key switch you got something wrong.

In the mean time put something to the + and - on the small bolts and see if it works. Maybe something is backfeeding when you do what you did. If it works the RIGHT WAY then your key and in gear switch is working and the relay is bad, if not then it's the key or switch.

Calusa

My solenoid only has one small bolt, not two.

Still, I tested again touching the two big bolts and the troller turned on whether the key was turned or in the off position. ****?

I also touched the one small bolt and one big bolt (one at a time), and got no power to the troller.

CaptTater

Then the ground is the equivalent of the second bolt instead of 2 bolts, that's not uncommon. THat starter's sidemounted solenoid must backfeeding type.

SO
Hook the + of the troller to the one little bolt and the - on the troller to the - on the battery. It should NOT run until the key is turned like you are cranking it. If it then does NOT then you have a problem the key switch or similar and NOT the relay/solenoid.