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OK, I replaced those ignition parts in my '89 F250
Put in a new coil and TFI module. When I got done she cranked right up. I ran it for about a minute and switched it off. Cranked the key again and nothing. No click, rechecked my connections, etc.
I did have to loosen and rotate the distributor a little to get to the TFI, but I marked the location beforehand and made sure it was exactly there when I tightened it.
Somebody help me here. What have I done wrong?
I did have to loosen and rotate the distributor a little to get to the TFI, but I marked the location beforehand and made sure it was exactly there when I tightened it.
Somebody help me here. What have I done wrong?
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Sent from my Venue Pro using Board Express
when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
"“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
Have you done any research about common problems for that year vehicle?
That's an easy check you should have a pin hole on the steering column.
Push that in and turn the key it should pop right out.
This not it but in this pic the tab that is on top is what broke off on mine, that was lots of fun too get out.
I also tried moving the shift lever to neutral and back to park with no results. Where's the neutral safety switch located?
I am not positive, but the last ford I had to mess with the neutral safety switch was a 92 or 93 f150, and it was on the lower left hand side (drivers side) of the trans. where the shifting linkage meets the trans.
Is the neutral switch something that would go bad after the repairs I did? Is the switch something I can manually adjust at the ****?
A way to check if it is out of adjustment is to try to start it with the shifter in different positions. Make sure you have room in case it does start in gear.
That would just be checking the adjustment, but not if your switch is good or not.
Ya a tad redneck but it only takes a min.
America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.
Abraham Lincoln
Your battery connections are the only thing u touched that could cause it.
The ignition module and coil wouldnt effect the starter.Any thing else is coincidental.
Snit happens! Start at the beginning,charge the battery,check all connections and check the solonoid wire.EZPZ
Oh and yes the nuetral switch is adjustable.
U can get a 12v test light at any parts house as well as a cheap volt/ohm meter
when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
"“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
Thanks for all the great advise guys. I'll take a look at it when I get home from work.
Ford, how do you know if it is the starter or the solenoid?
I have had many, and once it is found it's like OMG that was easy.:banghead
Ok I'll tell ya and it works on other cars and trucks also.
If your solenoid is making a clicking sound chances are it is not the solenoid, but that is still not ruled out.:banghead
Cross the power to ground on the solenoid if the starter turns your starter is not bad.
After that move on, yup a bit more shade tree mechanic.
Original member number 3640 - September 2001.
NRA Endowment Member
You can bypass (jump) the solenoid, but I would not ground it unless you are trying to let the smoke out.