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Mag-Hytec Differential cover

MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
My truck has a chrysler 9.25 rearend with 3.93 gears. It has been boiling the fluid in a matter of months. Last change, I tried adding a quart of Hyperlube and it made a world of difference. Now I'm thinking of adding this aluminum cover. It doubles the oil capacity, is better at conducting heat and has a drain for easy fluid changes.

This bad boy cost $260 so before I drop the coin, I thought I'd see if any one on here has had a good experience with one?

http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_11&products_id=26&zenid=49c71f90fdc6fcfd0031efbaf03241bd

Replies

  • screamin seamanscreamin seaman Posts: 1,492 Officer
    Are you sure there isn't an underlying issue? A quick search doesn't come up with any issues such as yours....

    Has this been happening since it was "rebuilt"?
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  • coldaircoldair Posts: 11,498 Officer
    mine work great, but you have something very wrong
    169304.GIF
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    Lifted?
    Sent from my Venue Pro using Board Express
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
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  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    I've never rebuilt a rear end, so I don't know much about it. From what I've read, the chrysler 9.25 has a tendency to eat bearings and that is consistent with my experience, 3 sets in 100K. Two main complaints I read are C-Clips and compression sleeves (not shims).

    Anyways, the hyperlube seems to have quieted it down for now, I hope that means I can get more time before it fails. I guess the long term solution, like Coldy suggested in another thread, is to put a compatible Dana rear end in it.
  • ChuckcChuckc Posts: 4,398 Captain
    3 sets of bearings in 100k? Shouldn't be more like 300k before a bearing replacement is needed?

    I've never, ever had to go into a differential in 25 years of driving hard.
  • gandrfabgandrfab Posts: 21,685 AG
    Chuckc wrote: »
    3 sets of bearings in 100k? Shouldn't be more like 300k before a bearing replacement is needed?

    I've never, ever had to go into a differential in 25 years of driving hard.

    He did say chrysler 9.25 if it was a ford 9.00 this thread would never have started.
  • coldaircoldair Posts: 11,498 Officer
    I destroyed 4 Ford 10.5 rear axles before I went to a Dana 80, but that was all too much HP and torque and too much sticky tire. Something has got to give, Like ring and pinon gears
    169304.GIF
  • Gator-BaitGator-Bait Posts: 291 Officer
    I'd go for it, I'll be replacing my front and rear diffs, as well as my **** pan all with Mag-Hytec. I know it'll be pricey but the longevity should outweigh the upfront cost. I know of a few truck owners who are very happy!
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    To put a DANA in, should I expect around $400-$600+ labor?
  • APEAPE Posts: 973 Officer
    You should be able to find a complete rear end from a junked dodge with an Dana 80 for less than 600 and all you have to do is unbolt the drive shaft, remove U-bolts, and the brakes. I have a 2002 3/4 ton 4x4 with 3.55 gears and it has disc brakes which are great for towing.
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    I guess if I get a same body style, that the shock mounts and speed sensor mount will be identical?
  • acarbacarb Posts: 2,357 Captain
    To put a DANA in, should I expect around $400-$600+ labor?
    The amount of retro work will dictate the labor time for a dana.The labor time for a 03 Dodge 2500 pick up with the 9.25 is 6 hours straight swap. 03 was the 1st year for the 9.25 and they were and are still junk! Increasing the gear dope volume will help make it last longer by keeping the temp down.The aluminum will help some to.
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    acarb wrote: »
    03 was the 1st year for the 9.25

    What do you mean here?

    Mine is a 98 and the sticker under the hood says Chrysler 9.25
  • acarbacarb Posts: 2,357 Captain
    What do you mean here?

    Mine is a 98 and the sticker under the hood says Chrysler 9.25
    is it a 2500 or 1500 2wd or 4wd
  • acarbacarb Posts: 2,357 Captain
    What do you mean here?

    Mine is a 98 and the sticker under the hood says Chrysler 9.25
    MY bad mad there was a 9.25 chrysler rear diff in the 1990s.The 9.25 american axle came out in 03 and that is the one i was refering to.Sorry about that! The spicer/dana from the same year will interchange with the chrysler but you may have to swap
    u joints or yokes.
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    Thanks for the info! It sounds like a project I can handle with 1 helper. I guess the main thing will be getting the correct axle assembly.

    How do you know if the one you are getting is not toast already? Any recommendations for a salvage yard?

    My local LKQ is not answering the phone today and their website says they don't have one.
  • APEAPE Posts: 973 Officer
    Thanks for the info! It sounds like a project I can handle with 1 helper. I guess the main thing will be getting the correct axle assembly.

    How do you know if the one you are getting is not toast already? Any recommendations for a salvage yard?

    My local LKQ is not answering the phone today and their website says they don't have one.

    MAD, LKQ moved to Lake City and they can get the correct ratio for you with all of the info that you require. What size truck do you have currently 1500 or 2500 2x4 or 4x4, auto or manual transmission. The parts are easy to come by and the swapping out is not too bad if you leave the wheels and tires on, and if you have a 3/4 ton it will have 8 lug wheels which I happen to have a spare set of wheels and tires for if you need to use them to roll the axle out/in with.
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    I have a 1500 2x4. I called Lake City, but also no answer, I'll keep trying.

    Thanks
  • acarbacarb Posts: 2,357 Captain
    I have a 1500 2x4. I called Lake City, but also no answer, I'll keep trying.

    Thanks

    1-800-775-2710 ext 5071 James
    Tell him Jimmy from A-Carburetor told u to call.
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    Got through to LKQ. They have one in Texas, its a 4.10 for ~$850. Yikes.

    Thanks a-carb, I'll give that a try
  • gandrfabgandrfab Posts: 21,685 AG
    And if it doesn't have a magnetic drain plug get one.
  • jad1097jad1097 Posts: 9,611 Admiral
    coldair wrote: »
    I destroyed 4 Ford 10.5 rear axles before I went to a Dana 80, but that was all too much HP and torque and too much sticky tire. Something has got to give, Like ring and pinon gears
    HAd a buddy who ran a car that would snap an axle every 2nd or 3rd run. He put a ton of money into the car but was too cheap to buy good axles.
  • coldaircoldair Posts: 11,498 Officer
    I spent about 4k doing mine, I was going to do a dynatrack 80 but that would have been $7700.00 plus the grand for my ladder bars
    169304.GIF
  • MadScientistMadScientist Posts: 3,402 Officer
    GoAuto in Jax has a 3.55 for $700 out the door (after core).

    I'm thinking I'll just give the Mag-Hytec a try and if everything looks OK when I take the cover off, I'll use 2qts of Hyperlube and 3qts of regular. If it looks wrecked inside, I'll return the Mag-Hytec and get a Dana.
  • coldaircoldair Posts: 11,498 Officer
    setting up a rear axle is a art form. you may have a bad housing or something bent to be eating bearings
    169304.GIF
  • APEAPE Posts: 973 Officer
    I have 200K miles on my Dana and I haven't had any issues.
    In Gainesville on 23rd near Waldo Rd there is a place that sells parts and out in Dixie County on Hwy 19 they Dixie Auto Salvage and in Trenton they have Beyers Salvage they had a dodge parts truck that was a 3/4 ton 8 lug a couple of weeks ago.
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