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Snook Fly Leader?

Inshore OnlyInshore Only MemberPosts: 77 Greenhorn
I am new to fly fishing for snook and I was wondering what would be a good all around snook leader. I will be fishing mainly around dock lights but also along the beach on an eight weight rod.

Redfish 10'


  • dunflydunfly Member Posts: 54 Deckhand
    For beach snook, I use a 9 foot leader with a 10# tippet section and a 25# fluorocarbon bite tippet of about 1 foot. You can use tapered leaders but I tie my own. I use 4 foot 30# hard mono butt section, 3 foot 20# hard mono mid section and 2 foot 10# fluorocarbon tippet section, again with a 1 foot 25# fluorocarbon bite tippet. For docks you may want to shorten the leader a little and use all fluorocarbon with a 12# or greater tippet section and a 30# fluorocarbon bite tippet. Off the beach you can let them run, but around docks you what to pull them out a quickly as possible.
  • acesoveracesover Senior Member East Central Fl.Posts: 552 Officer
    What knot do you use to attach the bite tippet to the leader with?
  • fltsfshrfltsfshr Senior Member Naples FlPosts: 292 Officer
    I use a tapered leader with a surgeons knot and a little superglue for the tippet. The superglue beads on the knot and gives it a smooth finish. I'm too lazy to tie my own.

    I use superglue on every knot I tie.

  • mtd885mtd885 Senior Member Hallandale Beach/Cudjoe Key FlPosts: 1,159 Officer
    I use a Slim Beauty however you can use an Albright.
  • YakFlyYakFly Junior Member Kissimmee,FLPosts: 12 Deckhand
    I use blood knots on all the leader connections. I've never had an issue yet with that knot.
  • dunflydunfly Member Posts: 54 Deckhand
    I use Albrights for the step down (different diameter) connections. Blood knots if they are similar diameter lines.
  • Permit RatPermit Rat Senior Member Stuart, Fla., Veracruz, Mx.Posts: 2,283 Captain
    mtd885 wrote: »
    I use a Slim Beauty however you can use an Albright.

    This is just me, but I do not like the slim beauty and never did. (sorry Simon) First of all, the knot was designed to tie a heavy shock leader to a single strand of leader other words, a tapered leader as opposed to the big game quick-change leader system that almost everyone used, back in the heyday of tarpon fishing and for all other big game fish. It is tied with a single overhand knot in the leader material as opposed to the surgeon's knot used with the Huffnagel. Other than that I believe the knots are identical.

    The problem is that especially with heavy mono and flouro shock tippet materials, pliers are needed to properly tighten the overhand knot. When you have passed a single strand of 15 lb. tippet through that knot, it is possible to crimp the tippet material, reducing its diameter and therefore its breaking strength. The same could happen with a surgeon's knot and the Huffnagel.....but at least with this knot, that pressure is spread over a larger area (the figure-8), so it is harder to crimp the tippet material. I hope this all makes sense to everyone.

    BTW, you can minimize this effect by tightening the overhand knot or surgeon's knot over tippet material away from where you want it to end up. After the knot is tightened, you then draw the tippet material through the knot until there is "fresh" line inside the knot. This line will knot be crimped.

    I think superglue on these knots is a very good idea, especially if/when using flourocarbon for the shock tippet material.
  • deerflydeerfly Senior Member Posts: 818 Officer
    I rarely use a full tapered leader for anything except bonefish and permit. Otherwise, I use a 4'-6' straight or a one taper butt section and loop to loop big game leader setup for pretty much everything else, downsized accordingly for smaller stuff. In cases where I might need a small shock tippet attached to a tapered leader, I'd finish the tippet end with a bimini and then uni-uni or albright the shock to the doubled line. I usually tie the shock section on my "small game" loop to loop leaders the same way and generally don't bother with a Huffnagle until I need 40lb+ shock.

    Lately, on the lighter stuff I've been experimenting with my tippet to shock connection by forgoing the bimini and just doubling the tippet back over itself and tying a surgeons knot instead of a uni-uni or albright. It's much faster to tie, especially on the water and has been sufficiently strong every time I've scale tested it, but I'm an old dog learning new tricks and tend to take the longer more traveled path when ever I have the time to prepare.
    "impossibility cannot be concluded from a sample of failed efforts" - Edsger W. Dijkstra
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Senior Member Posts: 2,422 Captain
    I am new to fly fishing for snook and I was wondering what would be a good all around snook leader. I will be fishing mainly around dock lights but also along the beach on an eight weight rod.


    For the surf it's going to depend greatly on which coast you're on. The two coasts couldn't be more different. On the east coast most use intermediate lines or intermediate tip lines with a 5' leader consisting of 3 parts. I use flouro because of it's density, and start the leader with 2.5-3' of 30lb gamma/seaguar flouro, then connect 2' of 15-20lb flouro with an improved blood knot, then connect 10" of 30-50lb shock with a surgeons to bristol connection. Most of the flies used on the east coast are considerably larger than what's used in the gulf, the rips are stronger, the waves are higher, the water is darker, and we just can't do things the way gulf anglers can.
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Senior Member Posts: 4,799 Captain
    Inshore you didn't say which coast you were on.. but here's how I set my anglers up for fishing docklights down here in south Florida... As much as I'd like a shock tippet I don't use one unless I know we're in fish over 10lbs. I'd like to use a shock tippet but the fish bite much more often when your fly moves better... The best compromise I've found to date is just to use a straight section of 20lb fluoro, about four feet long, that's looped onto a heavier butt section (40lb Ande, 4' long for an 8 or 9wt, 50lb Ande, 4.5 to 5' long for a 10wt, you get the idea...) that's spliced directly to the fly line. It works out to be an 8 to 9' leader mostly and you'll lose an occasional fish that wears through the 20lb - but you'll get a lot more bites... If we're talking really spooky fish that require a #4 or smaller fly size, I'll even go down to straight 15 to get that bite - but it will cost us quite a few fish... The alternative is to use a shock tippet and a lot of refusals most nights... In the other direction, particularly if the water is stirred up or a bit murky we'll go to bigger flies and that shock tippet.... Hope this helps.
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • ShadowcastShadowcast Senior Member Posts: 1,064 Officer
    I get pretty simple with snook-at-night leaders......a wingspan of 40# FC, half a wingspan of 20# FC.....18" of 30# FC. Perfection loop to the fly line, nail knots on the rest of the leader, perfection loop connected to the fly.
    Capt. Jon Bull
    Sales Rep - Ankona Boats, Salt Marsh Skiffs, Tavernier Skiff Company
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