Learned that Tracker has ZERO factory customer service. You get an 800 number call center that is happy to regurgitate what you find on their webpage, OR… You can call a dealer. Crazy.
Anyway… was just curious how the seat at motor is constructed. Just one sheet of aluminum skin and then foam filled, or maybe (and preferably) an aluminum sandwich with foam and then big cavity foam filled?
Trying to figure out best way to install a couple of these. If it’s just one aluminum skin then I’m not sure how I’ll go about this.
A few dollops of 5200 and self tapping screws, don’t remove any more foam than you have to( it just provides a little more support for the flimsy aluminum)
For they always bring me tears
I can't forgive the way they rob me
Of my childhood souvenirs"... John Prine
and then I guess some right screws and some adhesive. Ugh. I just don’t like it. My other thought was an inspection plate they get all the foam and have a pre-drilled backing plate. But then lost the support of the foam.
Another president put a man in the Lady's bathroom.
Any heavy duty pedestal seat bases you see on any size boat are probably fastened with Togglers. The package they come in (usually two bolts per package) has instructions on it but I'd recommend buying an extra pair and doing a bit of practice before your install (putting two or more materials sandwiched together -then using a Toggler to fasten them together...). If under your seat has foam - remove just enough to install that base tube -and for where the Toggler has to go - a small allen wrench key mounted on a hand drill can be inserted in the hole for each Togglers then used to wallow out the foam - allowing you to insert that Toggler...
The resulting installation will be rock solid for years. A few years back, when my center console came loose (for the second or third time...) I used Togglers for a permanent solution.. Note... Looking at your base I'd only use Togglers at each corner then sheet metal screws for additional holes...
Hope this helps and "Aren't boats fun?"
Another president put a man in the Lady's bathroom.
I know that at times it can get rough out there and that bar had to hold my full weight being slammed into it at times. It had to be rock solid. Sooo....I removed the seat - drilled out all the rivets and slid the foam out. Foam was bone dry and cut to fit instead of being foamed in place, which helped a lot.
I used heavy duty hinges and put backing plates behind them. Trimming the foam for clearance was easy with a sharp filet knife.
To put the seats back in, I used heavy 1/4" aluminum pop rivets with stainless steel shanks. Drilling the old rivets out was "interesting." Happily, Starcraft used 7/32" driven rivets, but they have domed heads and were a beast to center the drill on to get them out. Using a snap punch and 3/32" pilot drill helped, but still difficult to get the hole centered.
(Sometime later, I replaced 160 corroded rivets in the bottom of that boat and that centering problem drove me half way cross-eyed)
Going to a 1/4" rivet allowed for a bit of slop and gave a tight fit. You'll need the big 2 handed 17" rivet popper from Harbor Freight to pull the things with - the little sheet metal poppers in the kits will just bend under the heavy strain of these rivets - if you've got the forearms to do it. Ask me how I know.
On the rivets going thru the hull, I dipped each one in 5200, as per Bob LeMay's recommendation at the time and had no problem with leaks. Those pop rivets are Tough. I'd be willing to wager that they're stronger than the original driven rivets.
It's an older boat and I had problems later with original rivets shearing in stress areas - the worst was an oarlock shearing off when rowing home with a dead motor. Try kneeling on the bow seat of a very wide (63" beam) 16 ft boat and using an oar as a paddle for 1½ miles down a winding canal one time. It wasn't fun.
I was some disappointed in the quality of the build, esp. from a builder with Starcraft's reputation. Is that a common thing with riveted boats ??
Looked over options and posted the question here and someone (sorry, can't remember who it was) suggested gluing a stiff piece of aluminum over the ding to hold it in one position. He suggested gluing it with West Systems G-Flex 650.
OK, I found a suitable piece of aluminum and glued it in and....wal-lah, no more pop. That 650 is some really powerful adhesive, slightly flexible and easy to work with. Proper surface prep is essential. I published a picture story about that project here.
My thought - find a 3/16" or 1/4" piece of 6061 or similar at a scrap yard and glue it to the existing seat where you want your new seat and drill and tap it for bolts. 6061 isn't steel, but it's very hard and hold threads very well. Kind of like a surface mount backing plate. From my experience, you could prob'ly lift the entire boat from it.
For the aluminum, check out diamond plate. I used a piece of it to make a bow plate to mount a mooring cleat to. Mine was 3/16". I published a story with pictures about it at the time and showed/described what I went thru to put a curve into that stuff. It was like trying to bend granite. That stuff is "Tough." It's easy enuf to grind off the ridges in the diamond plate.
Aren't boats fun ?? (sorry, Bob. 😎😎)
If I ever write a book about the various little (and not so little...) things I've had to learn about boats of every size these past fifty years - that tag line would probably make a pretty good title....
Just to bring us up to date - yesterday running out of Flamingo on a charter, I'd run my anglers back to their campsite in the Everglades (we used their 24 footer since my small skiff could not fish four anglers..) and was halfway back to the ramp (only 11 or 12 miles to go...) when my water pump quit and shut me down.... This after just having a full 300 hour maintenance done by my dealer - which included a new water pump - less than five operating hours ago.... I limped along and was very lucky to get a tow from Midway all the way back to Flamingo - or I might still be out there -poling home... Just got the word from my dealer - my brand new water pump - had failed completely... Thank heavens the E-TEC's system automatically shut me down before the over-heating could damage my motor... When I finish writing this - it will be back to the dealer to pick up my skiff and get back on the road again... After all, it's spring time and that's when most guides are busiest...
"Aren't boats fun?"