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Battery - Long lead - recommendation for Daiwa Tanacom 1000

Dr. BDr. B Posts: 2 Greenhorn
I am in the process of upgrading my direct drive electric fishing reel.  I am going to purchase a Daiwa Tanacom 1000.  I will be using this on overnight and two day trips in the northern Gulf of Mexico.

1.  What battery / power supply do you recommend?  I will be going on trips with others so this will need to be portable power supply.  
2. What do you suggest in terms of getting a longer power cord, something in the neighborhood of 10 to 12 feet?

Advice and suggestions are welcome.


  • pottydocpottydoc The thriving metropolis of Umatilla Posts: 3,870 Captain
    go up a size on the wire used for the power cord. Less resistance if you do that. 10-12’ isn’t that long, though. How long is the 
    long is the one it comes with?

  • Dr. BDr. B Posts: 2 Greenhorn
    Thank you.     It had not arrived yet....the 8 ft I had with my direct drive was not enough.
    Any suggestions on the portable power?

  • XafXaf Posts: 1,097 Officer
    I use a deep cycle 12 volt marine battery with my Tanacom.  It will last at least two days before charging.  The cord that comes with the Tanacom is only 5' - 6' long.  They are not very reliable.  Most people i know carry a spare just in case it craps out. The cord flexes where the connector goes into the reel.  It tends to open or short out right at the connector.  I don't know where you can get the connectors to the reel to build your own cord.
    I bought a small Jump Starter/Instant Power unit as a back up to my battery.  I put a strap on it so I could wear it over my shoulder in case I need to move around but have never really needed to use it.   
  • demersalangelerdemersalangeler SE FLORIDA Posts: 349 Deckhand
     Buy a Diawa SLP WORKS SUPER POWER CORD 500. They are 5 meter. If you modify you're existing cord it will only last, so long because the daiwa wires are not tinded. Definitely bring 1 or even 2 spares & some butt connectors & crimpers. 
     I've got a MT1000, MT750, T1000 & have used them alot. I don't cut the ends & put a plug on. I connect right to a battery, or buss bar. 

     Also you would be doing yourself a great favor by installing some carbon drag washers. None of my reels had them factory, only Teflon & paper washers. The new seaborg mj has carbon washers & the mp motor. 
  • XafXaf Posts: 1,097 Officer
    demersalangler, Is the Diawa SLP WORKS SUPER POWER CORD 500 the blue cord? Do you know if it will fit the Seaborg MJ?   Where do you purchase the cords?

    Thanks, XAF
  • demersalangelerdemersalangeler SE FLORIDA Posts: 349 Deckhand
     Yes, the SLP 500 is the blue cord. I dont know for certain if it fits the MJ. I dont have a MJ yet, but to my knowledge all of the daiwa electrics use the same cord with the exception of the MP3000. I get them from Asia via Ebay, or a direct web site. 

     If you want to go with the tanacom. You can get a set of carbons off of Ebay in the $30 range. The Tan has good power, but not quite like the MT, or MJ. The Tan will swing a 3lb, or 4lb lead & a fish no problem. Especially with the carbons. 

     I highly recommend the carbons because the factory drag is very jerky. 

     Picture of the factory drag washers. 
  • XafXaf Posts: 1,097 Officer
    I've had the Tanacom 1000 for a number of years.  First thing I did was replace the drag washers. 

    The reason I asked was that I recently purchased a Seaborg 800MJ and the cords from my Tanacom will not fit. (Actually, I just looked up the Diawa SLP WORKS SUPER POWER CORD 500 and in the details it excludes the 800MJ.)
  • demersalangelerdemersalangeler SE FLORIDA Posts: 349 Deckhand
     It makes one wonder if the MJ is the same power cord as the MP3000? 

     The MJ should be nice.  How's the power? 
     Do you like the jog lever? 

     It sucks the MT cord dosent fit the MJ. As I've got a half-dozen of them. 
  • Jack HexterJack Hexter New Port RicheyPosts: 4,911 Moderator
    I've got the 800MJ and I carry 2 power cords.  First thing I do with the power cord is remove the clips and slip a piece of clear plastic tubing on the cord and work it down and over the base of the cord where it plugs into the reel.  I use a heat gun to soften ti to get it over the base.  Then i silicone the other end to keep water out.  When connected, I zip tie this to the rod at the back end of the reel seat.  his keeps the flex at the weak point at a minimum and have never had one fail.  But even if it does, I'm prepared with the second cord
  • demersalangelerdemersalangeler SE FLORIDA Posts: 349 Deckhand
    I've never had one fail at the reel. That may be because mine are always in the rod holder. Also I tend to make a loop in the cord to reduce the pressure point. Although my T100 is on a straight butt & I use it for spooling for mutton in the deep stuff, as a pink porgy rod, or as a shotgun rod. 

     Mine go bad where the clips are connected to the wire, or where I spliced in tined marine duplex cable. Its corrosion from salt intrusion. (Thats why I dont splice in to add lenght) 
     Also I've had a cable burn up in the middle. With a fish on in over 1k'. You could literally see where it melted the outside insulation. I cut it & found the wires had high residence due to oxidation. That particular time I did not have a spare & butt connected the wires. It did it 3 or 4 times. I eventually cut the + & - to different lengths & twisted the wires together. I was eventually able to retrieve my fish.  
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