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My Reel Is Better Than Yours

flagoldflagold AlabamaPosts: 321 Deckhand


Some of you saw this in the rod sect: https://youtu.be/uXvaJAdS5Dk (Quality Or Just Costly) and were left hanging (I was too, frankly) as to what I did so I put this post up because as you saw we found reel after reel (actually there were many more) "quality" salt water reels with plastic gears inside (beautiful on the outside though) and I needed to update my Dad's 1944 Service reel since he didn't use the drag system at all and had removed the drag washers. I also watched Dennis' film (links in the above) on the new Penn reels (Chinese) and simply lost confidence in the new stuff after that. So this is what I did: went down to the hardware store and looked through the furniture (handle) parts for felt washers and then the lamp section (found the size for mine there) (the usual factory drag washer stacks were metal-leather-metal-leather or metal-felt or stainless- brass (or copper) arrangements. I chose felt because it soaks up grease and will keep everything else in there greased for a long time and greased, dissipates heat well. I could have done any of the above and could have ordered carbon sheets (or washers from the links in the description (movie above). You can do anything you want with these old reels to make them new again - as long as the result is a smooth drag. Smooth is the key.

I would strongly suggest if you are using a new reel for big fish - look in it! Plastic (dogs, gears)? Some of these reels you would never suspect since they are beefy (on the outside). It's a case by case thing - you'll just have to look.

Here is what I did: https://youtu.be/HTv4p8SP0dA
Title: How To Upgrade Modify Lube Any Star Drag Fishing Reel To New - All Conventional Reels

Then I made another video on how to set the drag to line weight and be able to return to that weight when on the boat (and your buddy invariably messes with the drag - now you don't know what it's set to). Critical to know for trolling - because the speed of the boat, weight of the lure + poundage and speed of the fish will pop a line if not set right. Happens so fast many never realize why they lost the fish at all - they assume it was bigger than the line would hold (and of course we get a "one that got away" story). Basic: once you know the setting - use the rod to set it if on the boat (tie off to a rail - whatever). Those of you chasing big stuff have other ways of doing it with a scale, etc., that's just how I did it.  Now, with a lever, I probably would use the scale.  My fish were typically 120 & <.  Bigger and I'd hire you - (you know who you are).

Here is how I did it: https://youtu.be/Rx9dpvDO3-E
Title: Minnow To Marlin: How To Set Star Drag For Solid Hookups Trolling Or Jigging Fish

Good luck with your fishing.
Matt Mattson
100 ton lisc. C.G. Capt.
Rebuild Grandpa's Zebco: https://youtu.be/_4BTSEVcbQ4
Quality Zebco 33 Buying Guide: https://youtu.be/Tg917tVFrM8
Basic Fishing Reel Maintenance: https://youtu.be/HTv4p8SP0dA
Bomb Holes, Wrecks, Reefs How To ID & GPS: https://youtu.be/b5ljdWyLR5I
Fish Attractor That Works: https://youtu.be/ushkhZUxUWg 
Big Fish Small Boat: https://youtu.be/i32IgXKWZuA
Big sheepshead With Dock Snails: https://youtu.be/gqE0az7WqH4

Replies

  • flagoldflagold AlabamaPosts: 321 Deckhand
    I guess nobody figured out what the above was about . . .  This is what it's about: what's inside that "series" reel you've bought (series reels are reels sold from $65 to $650 & up, have the same name series name (Millionaire, Calcutta, whatever) and as the size goes up you think they'll handle progressively bigger fish - and to some extent that is true).  On some of these reels you'll find old style sturdy brass gears and bushings (the side commonly opened first) - but on the other end you're not likely to see at the store: plastic gears.  Anyway - those vids detailed all that as I took them apart, and the fixes you can make to not lose your fish of a lifetime.

    Daiwa (Millionaire series):



    Shimano: Unusual that the plastic gears are on the bridge side (the side you readily see) - on most these would be brass/stainless and that gives the illusion all the gears are brass/stainless.





    Hard to argue with the outside though.

    Flea Market reel (commonly 5-$20): stainless/brass gearing/bushings throughout.  Since the softer metal wears the harder metal (and stainless is pretty much impervious - you have a reel that will last - as it already has).


    Rebuild Grandpa's Zebco: https://youtu.be/_4BTSEVcbQ4
    Quality Zebco 33 Buying Guide: https://youtu.be/Tg917tVFrM8
    Basic Fishing Reel Maintenance: https://youtu.be/HTv4p8SP0dA
    Bomb Holes, Wrecks, Reefs How To ID & GPS: https://youtu.be/b5ljdWyLR5I
    Fish Attractor That Works: https://youtu.be/ushkhZUxUWg 
    Big Fish Small Boat: https://youtu.be/i32IgXKWZuA
    Big sheepshead With Dock Snails: https://youtu.be/gqE0az7WqH4

  • gogittumgogittum SW New MexicoPosts: 153 Deckhand
    That's really upsetting.  My only experience with plastic gears so far was with a small Craftsman band saw.  It was given to me - the motor ran but blade didn't move - so I pulled it apart and found a stripped plastic gear.  Replaced it and used it for several years, but always took it easy on it.

    That doesn't always work with reels - they've gotta take some heavy punishment with a good sized fish.  Can anyone - or everyone - give a list of reels they know for sure have plastic gears ??  Can't quite picture myself in a tackle shop pulling reels apart before buying.
  • gogittumgogittum SW New MexicoPosts: 153 Deckhand
    Thinking on that - seems like the heaviest stress would be cranking down on a fish, where strain on gears would be highest.  Wonder if those plastic gears would hold up better if a guy was to do strictly pump and wind ??  Lift the fish with the rod, drop the tip and crank in the slack then repeat ??  Think I'd prefer to stick with metal gears.
  • conchydongconchydong Pompano BeachPosts: 5,741 Admiral
    Generally level wind reels have plastic gears that drive the level wind mechanism as a "safety" feature. Should you get a finger caught in the level wind, the theory is the gear will fail before your finger fails. I won't test the theory though.

    “Everyone behaves badly--given the chance.”
    ― Ernest Hemingway

  • flagoldflagold AlabamaPosts: 321 Deckhand
    gogittum said:
    Thinking on that - seems like the heaviest stress would be cranking down on a fish, where strain on gears would be highest.  Wonder if those plastic gears would hold up better if a guy was to do strictly pump and wind ??  Lift the fish with the rod, drop the tip and crank in the slack then repeat ??  Think I'd prefer to stick with metal gears.
    That might work - but the best thing is to stay away from them altogether.  No quality reel with have them.  Just the ones I know off the top - Shimano Calcutta series, Abu Garcia "USA" series, Daiwa "Millionaire" series.  Watch for a plastic bridge as well (plastic now holding the plastic gears).  Having the sales people take it down is good - because you would have to know how to do this anyway to lube it - so ask them to show you how to take the spool out to lube and look for plastic.  The older conventional reels (Penn, Ocean City, Shakespeare, etc.) do not have it anywhere up to 1975 at least.
    Rebuild Grandpa's Zebco: https://youtu.be/_4BTSEVcbQ4
    Quality Zebco 33 Buying Guide: https://youtu.be/Tg917tVFrM8
    Basic Fishing Reel Maintenance: https://youtu.be/HTv4p8SP0dA
    Bomb Holes, Wrecks, Reefs How To ID & GPS: https://youtu.be/b5ljdWyLR5I
    Fish Attractor That Works: https://youtu.be/ushkhZUxUWg 
    Big Fish Small Boat: https://youtu.be/i32IgXKWZuA
    Big sheepshead With Dock Snails: https://youtu.be/gqE0az7WqH4

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