Compound Bow Fitting & general questions

hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
Since it's not a firearm, I figured asking questions about my bow here would be appropriate. I have a Pearson Spoiler compound and needs to be restrung. It only has one cord on it, and it's heavy plastic (?) that doesn't stretch much or attach to the pulleys so I'm guessing there's some missing. I'm in St Lucie and was wondering if there was a place I could go, say Vero to Stuart and have it strung up and dialed in for me.

I am new to hunting in Florida, have only been in NJ and NY and that was 5 years ago and this is my first using a bow.

Also, I want to find some optics, what is effective and not too expensive? As for arrows, I plan on hunting deer and hog and want to invest in arrows and tips. Any to stay away from as far as brands or what to stockpile as for types of tips?

Any help is greatly appreciated :thumbsup
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Replies

  • wilburzwilburz Posts: 985 Officer
    go to www.archerytalk.com. you will find anything and everything you ever wanted to know about bow and arrow.

    Happiness is a belt fed weapon!

  • thinfisherthinfisher Posts: 326 Officer
    Welcome to the world of Bowhunting.....You need to see a local shop!! There are two near you in Melbourne 1) All About Archery (321) 622-6888 or 2) Action Gun & Archery (321) 622-6969

    They should be able to get you set-up properly and provide the right advice on what gear you need. Stay away from mechanical broadheads when shooting hogs as you don't want to worry as to whether it will deploy or not.

    My $0.02
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Family, Friends and the Outdoors - Obama = PRICELESS
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    Sounds to me like you only have the bus cable on the bow and need a string. The Pearson Spoiler was a great bow in it's day. By today's standards they're heavy and slow. There were some problems with the design of the bow back when it was popular, especially with limb cracking. Make sure you have the bow properly checked out for stress fractures on the limbs, especially near the yokes and limb pockets.

    Second, make sure they check to see that the bow is a proper fit in draw length for you. Too long and you'll be slapping your forearm all the time. Too short and you won't get a good anchor. Either way, an ill-fitted bow results in crappy consistency and poor shooting performance.

    If it all checks out, restringing it is inexpensive and easy to accomplish. Make sure you get a dacron string for it as the newer 450 plus and 452 low stretch strings are not good for the older bows. Also, you want to stay away from plastic nylon serving on the string as it will develop flat spots from knock wear and will eventually break and unravel on you (probably when you least want it to.)

    Good luck!
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
    huntmstr wrote: »
    Sounds to me like you only have the bus cable on the bow and need a string. The Pearson Spoiler was a great bow in it's day. By today's standards they're heavy and slow. There were some problems with the design of the bow back when it was popular, especially with limb cracking. Make sure you have the bow properly checked out for stress fractures on the limbs, especially near the yokes and limb pockets.

    Second, make sure they check to see that the bow is a proper fit in draw length for you. Too long and you'll be slapping your forearm all the time. Too short and you won't get a good anchor. Either way, an ill-fitted bow results in crappy consistency and poor shooting performance.

    If it all checks out, restringing it is inexpensive and easy to accomplish. Make sure you get a dacron string for it as the newer 450 plus and 452 low stretch strings are not good for the older bows. Also, you want to stay away from plastic nylon serving on the string as it will develop flat spots from knock wear and will eventually break and unravel on you (probably when you least want it to.)

    Good luck!

    Thank you very much, you hit the nail on the head. When I first got it, that's exactly what happened, the string was flat in spots and frayed. Playing around in the yard one afternoon and POP there it went. The bow is in great shape, was only used a couple times by a family member and it sat for a long time in the garage. The frame doesn't have any noticeable wear or fractures but I am interested in having it checked out and fixed up for me.
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  • FloridaBoyFloridaBoy Posts: 284 Officer
    White's Tackle Shop in Ft Pierce, Thats my local shop.
    Whitestackle.com
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    As for your set up on arrows, broadheads, sights and rest...KISS. The more intricate the design, the more likely crap will go wrong on you. You're hunting, not target shooting so keep it simple and affordable.

    SIGHTS:
    I recommend a fixed position fiber optic pin sight like the Truglow Bright-Site Extreme (about $35) which has 5 pins and comes with a light kit. Easy to adjust, durable, visible in low light and affordable.

    REST:
    Go with what works and keeps your arrow on the bow with little to no noise. Use either a Whisker Biscuit or an APA Ultimate. Both have no moving parts and offer containment to your arrow. I prefer the APA over the WB because it will not slow your arrow flight as much. Both run about $40.

    ARROWS:
    Go with crabon shafts spined and weighted for your specific draw weight and length. Both Gold Tip Hunter in 55/75 and Carbon Express CXS 350 are good, affordable and dependable. Try and keep your total arrow weight above 8 grains per inch and under 12 grains per inch and you should have good results. You can expect optimum performance (arrow flight trajectory combined with penetration and kinetic energy retention down range) with either of these arrows. They are also good on consistent straightness and uniformity of arrow weight from one shaft to the next.

    BROADHEADS:
    Fixed position is really your best choice. You don't need a real aggressive broadhead if you are making good, clean shots. I like the Muzzy 4 blade 100gr best. No tuning required. No fancy bells & whistles... just clean cutting, durable & dependable.
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
    I appreciate all the info very much, thank you for breaking it down :thumbsup I'm going to do a little shopping and check out some stuff. I'll try Whites, I've probably passed the shop at least 5 times a week too.

    I'm getting excited about getting all set up with this and maybe get on some land soon :beer
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  • ruskinredneckruskinredneck Posts: 1,121 Officer
    huntmstr wrote: »
    As for your set up on arrows, broadheads, sights and rest...KISS. The more intricate the design, the more likely crap will go wrong on you. You're hunting, not target shooting so keep it simple and affordable.

    SIGHTS:
    I recommend a fixed position fiber optic pin sight like the Truglow Bright-Site Extreme (about $35) which has 5 pins and comes with a light kit. Easy to adjust, durable, visible in low light and affordable.

    REST:
    Go with what works and keeps your arrow on the bow with little to no noise. Use either a Whisker Biscuit or an APA Ultimate. Both have no moving parts and offer containment to your arrow. I prefer the APA over the WB because it will not slow your arrow flight as much. Both run about $40.

    ARROWS:
    Go with crabon shafts spined and weighted for your specific draw weight and length. Both Gold Tip Hunter in 55/75 and Carbon Express CXS 350 are good, affordable and dependable. Try and keep your total arrow weight above 8 grains per inch and under 12 grains per inch and you should have good results. You can expect optimum performance (arrow flight trajectory combined with penetration and kinetic energy retention down range) with either of these arrows. They are also good on consistent straightness and uniformity of arrow weight from one shaft to the next.

    BROADHEADS:
    Fixed position is really your best choice. You don't need a real aggressive broadhead if you are making good, clean shots. I like the Muzzy 4 blade 100gr best. No tuning required. No fancy bells & whistles... just clean cutting, durable & dependable.

    I have known huntmstr for going on 30 years and I wish I had asked him the same questions 25 years ago. After many years of trial and error and many, many hours at the Arrowhead shops around Tampa, I agree with everything he wrote with one exception; I prefer the the Muzzy 3 blade. I think there is less side to side windage effect. Ask me how I came to this conclussion! But the 4 blade adds more cutting effect. Just a personal preference. Defer to Chuck's more informed opinion!
  • hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
    I'm acting as a sponge right now, any info/recommendations I'm listening to, because I don't know squat right now.

    Once I get this thing strung up I'll start ordering goodies... I'm looking at and learning about sights now, Truglow has very good reviews
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  • ruskinredneckruskinredneck Posts: 1,121 Officer
    hewes18 wrote: »
    I'm acting as a sponge right now, any info/recommendations I'm listening to, because I don't know squat right now.

    Once I get this thing strung up I'll start ordering goodies... I'm looking at and learning about sights now, Truglow has very good reviews
    I have used the Truglows before and liked them. But, again, if I were setting up a new, or old, bow from scratch, I would listen to huntmstr. I am sure if you PM'd him, he would be happy answer specific questions. He is a wealth of knowledge.
  • FLDXTFLDXT Posts: 2,521 Captain
    Depending on how much money you want to spend, hands down the best sights I have ever owned and the last one I ever bought would be a SpotHogg, light, tough, you can order custom pin packages, customer service is great, and they give military discounts. They aren't cheap, but you will not have to buy another sight again. As far as a rest get anything but a whisker bisquit, there are hundreds of rests out there, comes down to preference, but the less contact your rest has with the arrow the better.
  • hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
    I was going over rests and I noticed this one... http://www.outdoorsexperience.com/muzzyxcelerator.html

    It seems like a good design in theory, any thoughts?
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  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    hewes18 wrote: »
    I was going over rests and I noticed this one... http://www.outdoorsexperience.com/muzzyxcelerator.html

    It seems like a good design in theory, any thoughts?

    There is no doubt that the Muzzy rest works. I put one on my dad's bow 12 years ago when they came out. Back then it was called a Muzzy Zero Effect rest. the only problem with them is that the arrow is not encased and contained within the rest like it is in the APA or the Whisker Biscuit. If you decide to get it, you will be happy with it...just make sure you have it professionally installed. The drawing arm has to be cut with an arrow saw to fit the bow. Cut it too short and the thing is useless.
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • flhunterflhunter Posts: 37 Deckhand
    Second on the www.archerytalk.com for any and everything you ever wanted to know about a bow. I have been a member forseveral years and have bout and sold everything with from accessories to bows on there and had great luck there.
  • FLDXTFLDXT Posts: 2,521 Captain
    Look at a QAD rest
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    While I agree that the QAD Ultra Rest is an excellent rest, I don't think it's what he needs. He's new to archery. He has an older bow. He wants to keep it affordable. I wouldn't suggest stuff that require more knowledge to install and maintain than he has or costs more than the bow he's putting it on. In this case, simple is better and certainly more economical.
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • bonebone Posts: 1,139 Officer
    Very good advice. Keep it simple. If the bow shop is trying to sell you a bunch of overpriced stuff go elsewhere. Also there are lots of good used bows already set up. Even 10 year old bows are often in excellent condition with new string. I Always think back 25-30 years ago about how cool that bear whitetail 2 was. I missed only 1 deer out of 10 with it. No sights or release. It all about shot presentation and knowing the distance.
  • FLDXTFLDXT Posts: 2,521 Captain
    huntmstr wrote: »
    While I agree that the QAD Ultra Rest is an excellent rest, I don't think it's what he needs. He's new to archery. He has an older bow. He wants to keep it affordable. I wouldn't suggest stuff that require more knowledge to install and maintain than he has or costs more than the bow he's putting it on. In this case, simple is better and certainly more economical.

    Can't believe I;m about to say this...I agree!
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    See. We don't have to be at odds all the time. I agree with you on many things and can admit it when I do. It's okay for you to know & admit when you're wrong. :wink

    If Rich & I can do it, I know you can. :grin
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • LivinTDreamLivinTDream Posts: 36 Deckhand
    I just moved down here from northern Michigan. The consensus on broad heads up there is the rage. I switched from the muzzy 3 blade about 3 years ago due to all the talk about the damage the 2 blade rage does. It was confirmed with my hunting. Huge entrance and exit wounds.

    I also have seen many poorly shot deer go down in a short distance with the rage. It shoots exactly like a field point. I shot a deer last year at over 60 yards with my matthews bow, Arrow hit exactly where I had aimed. If you watch the hunting shows you will see that nearly all the shows recommend the RAGE. in fact I saw a show where they promoted a different head but in the actual hunting clip the guy was using a rage.

    Lastly, some personal friends of mine who host a hunting show, Back Country Quest, use the rage for all animals from rabbits to moose. They swear by it. I was thinking of trying some others on my recent trip to michigan. I never got to the store so i just used the RAGE that i already had. Shot a doe at 35 yards. The arrow went through the shoulder bone and still passed through the other side and the deer went 40 yards and piled up.

    I found that muzzy's, 3 and 4 blade, plane off using my matthews. it shoots just over 300fps. I have heard similar reports from others who shoot fast bows. Plus it s fun to shout "rage in the cage" when you shoot one! Just my thoughts.

    And don't get me wrong. Muzzys are still great broad heads and I know many who still use them. I used them for 12 years before switching over.
  • ShineShine Posts: 821 Officer
    I found that muzzy's, 3 and 4 blade, plane off using my matthews. it shoots just over 300fps. I have heard similar reports from others who shoot fast bows.

    Generally this will be the result of an arrow tuning or arrow spine problem. The faster you shoot, the more tuning/spine problems will present themselves. One reason I think mechanicals have become so popular is the increasing speed of modern bows makes tuning mcuh more of a chore. And, I have found some bows and some arrows will just not tune out a problem making a mechanical almost a necessity.

    But, if you have ever seen a mechanical open in flight, and Rage is notorious for this, the arrow will spin off, or right into the ground. A one inch, non-wedged style broadhead will eliminate this problem and will have less planning/tuning issues. It may look small, but a one inch cut is a one inch cut. With four edges, the total cut tissue is equal to the rage’s two edges – although the rage will likely be somewhat more effective in blood loss.

    This year, I went to the SlickTrick -- its simple and very effective. Most of all, it really will shoot in my bow (Destroyer 340) as perfect as a field point. One has hit two deer and the ground once - sharpened, it still holds an edge and still shoots like a field point.
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    X2 on the Slick Tricks. Excellent broadhead.
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • LivinTDreamLivinTDream Posts: 36 Deckhand
    I have heard people talk about the slick tricks and they have only said good things.

    I have never had a rage open in flight. Although I have heard about it... I have shot over 10 animals with them and I must say that even on poor shots the blood trail is amazing. I have tried many other broad heads and the most important thing to me is the blood trail. With the rage I have noticed that the animals don't go far and the blood trails are great. I have lost deer with muzzy's and other smaller cutting broad heads that I know i hit decently.

    Last year i hit a doe poorly trying to take and awkwardly positioned shot. (had a cameraman in the tree and it was my only chance) I was amazed with the blood trail to the deer. I had a buddy who shot a doe and his arrow hit a branch and deflected. He hit her in the backstraps. Above the spine. The cut was big enough to completely sever the back muscles. The deer was not mortally wounded but we had a good blood trail and found her only 50 yards away. Fully alive but unable to run due to severed back muscles. I was amazed. The butcher was also amazed that the spine and everything was fully intact.

    Also, not everyone is able to tune their broad heads and arrows to each other... I am, and I still had trouble with the fixed blades. But for ease and less hassle collapsable heads are great.

    The only flaw that I have seen with the rage is that you have to replace the blades after shooting them at an animal. They are usually pretty messed up after retrieving the arrow. They also sell a 3 pack of titanium rages for $90. they are virtually indestructible. I have seen the tests and they use them over and over shooting through soup cans and they are still sharp. If i had the $ I would try them myself.
  • huntmstrhuntmstr Posts: 6,290 Admiral
    The problem is not tuning with his bow (Pearson Spoiler). The problem is the bow is older and will not likely give him the kE he needs to open and get full penetration with an exandable broadhead unless he shoots a very heavy arrow, which of course will affect his trajectory and his arrow speed. He would be better served to shoot a fixed blade like a Muzzy or the Slick Tricks and maintain better penetration and optimal arrow performance and speed without sacrificing accuracy or arrow trajectory.
    Bushnell, Primos and Final Approach Pro Staff. Proud member of the Fab Five, Big Leaugers and Bobble Head 4.

    I had you pissed off at hello.
  • hewes18hewes18 Posts: 757 Officer
    Thank you so much for all the info guys, this is awesome and appreciated so much you have no idea :thumbsup :thumbsup

    So I'll be dropping the bow off tomorrow, ordering the Muzzy Zero rest, the Truglow 5 pin sight with light kit, and a good supply of different broad heads. It's cool to know what these specs mean now when I look at parts..it's starting to make sense. When the parts come in, they will be installing the stuff too.

    huntmstr, I know what you mean.. I've been looking at many arrow shafts raw and fletched, and can't really find an arrow around 11-12g/in like you suggested except the ones $80+ a dozen. I'm just going to bite the bullet and order two dozen carbons. For tips, I figure since they're sold in 3 packs usually, I'll get a dozen broadheads at least, plus some target tips and maybe try a mechanical tip so essentially I'll have two dozen arrows with a variety of heads.

    Gotta say this is more fun than building my AR15 :p
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