now its the Stator

Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
so... if you followed myprevious thread you know that my rectifier went out. well i ordered a replacement and it made it here. so i pull the flywheel to find the top of the rectifier has popped. no biggy, then i see more bad news, my stator has black crap running out of it from all 3 elements. so im told that the stator being bad is what fried the rectifier? guess im in for another several hundred! @$%

Replies

  • T TopT Top Posts: 3,706 Captain
    Ain't this whole owning a boat thing fun?:grin:cry

    Seriously though I hope you get this worked out.
  • reelpleasurereelpleasure Posts: 754 Officer
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    What motor?

    1989 johnson 150STLCEM
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    T Top wrote: »
    Ain't this whole owning a boat thing fun?:grin:cry

    Seriously though I hope you get this worked out.

    wouldnt trade it for ....well?
    this is my 13th boat so.......im addicted to the fun
  • DudeDude Posts: 1,789 Officer
    Well ya are getting those issues out of the way...
    DUDE!
    2meanfish1.gif
  • T TopT Top Posts: 3,706 Captain
    wouldnt trade it for ....well?
    another hole in my head

    fify

    yea I know, its great torture ain't it?:beer
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    Not sure where my post went but stators are very reliable and don't usually just go bad. They are just coils over laminated steel rings and potted in varnish and such. Be sure your flywheel is okay and magnets are touching the stator.
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    CaptTater wrote: »
    Not sure where my post went but stators are very reliable and don't usually just go bad. They are just coils over laminated steel rings and potted in varnish and such. Be sure your flywheel is okay and magnets are touching the stator.
    sent you a om Tater.
  • dhadleydhadley Posts: 53 Deckhand
    There are a couple of things that can contribute to those things going out. Wing nuts on the battery posts are one thing. The other thing is to remember is that the rectifier / regulator on that motor is water cooled. If for any reason the block is trapping air or not filling up completely the reg / rec will not cool properly.
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    so bad battery connections can fry stators? the boat runs fine, how can the stator be bad if the motor runs,starts, idles and does everything perfect except run the tach?
  • latitudeajustmentlatitudeajustment Posts: 2,039 Captain
    I had a similar situation this past year where my trim motor seized up on my 98 Johnson 225. As I was running the boat I went to trim up and noticed it moved a bit and then stopped. I kept pressing the trim switch at the helm and the motor did not move. Within a few seconds of this I now notice my battery voltage levels climbing up to near 17 volts or so! Thankfully turned around and headed back to dock. I initially thought it was possibly a short somewhere and checked, cleaned and re-tightened all obvious battery connections, battery switch connections, grounds on the engine block, etc. This did not solve the problem. I then went and bought a brand new battery and installed it which of course did not fix the issue. Then I ordered and installed a new but non-OEM voltage regulator/rectifier -- you guessed it, still no go. Thinking it may be defective I returned it to the company I purchased it from in Ohio and bought a OEM regulator/rectifier. Still have voltage spikes so took it back to test and it tested fine. Finally decided it must be the stator although there was no obvious drippings or issues with the magnets. Took off the stator and could finally see a single problem coil that was slightly black. Installed new stator and everything works great! I believe when I kept pressing the trim switch the voltage spiked at that particular coil on the stator and caused the coil to fail. All along the motor would start, run, idle and roar if you wanted it to....however, the battery would have eventually fried and possibly caught fire or exploded due to the voltage rising as the RPMs increased.

    Sounds like yes you may have a bad stator from your description.
  • Plane Fish nPlane Fish n Posts: 6,439 Admiral
    Patrick,

    Boy, I remember the debacle with your engine. :banghead

    Glad it is working out! :thumbsup

    Cheers

    Eric
    PLANE FISH N
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    so bad battery connections can fry stators? the boat runs fine, how can the stator be bad if the motor runs,starts, idles and does everything perfect except run the tach?
    Not sure about bad connections frying the stator but a bad stator causes all sorts of problems. You could have one of 2 charge coils out which do run the tach in most motors. I don't know the coil configuration for that motor but one or more of the coils can go out causing all sorts of odd stuff. If the stator is oozing then it needs to be replaced and while at it see if the flywheel caused it to go bad.
    magnetor_strator.jpg
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    I had a similar situation this past year where my trim motor seized up on my 98 Johnson 225. As I was running the boat I went to trim up and noticed it moved a bit and then stopped. I kept pressing the trim switch at the helm and the motor did not move. Within a few seconds of this I now notice my battery voltage levels climbing up to near 17 volts or so! Thankfully turned around and headed back to dock. I initially thought it was possibly a short somewhere and checked, cleaned and re-tightened all obvious battery connections, battery switch connections, grounds on the engine block, etc. This did not solve the problem. I then went and bought a brand new battery and installed it which of course did not fix the issue. Then I ordered and installed a new but non-OEM voltage regulator/rectifier -- you guessed it, still no go. Thinking it may be defective I returned it to the company I purchased it from in Ohio and bought a OEM regulator/rectifier. Still have voltage spikes so took it back to test and it tested fine. Finally decided it must be the stator although there was no obvious drippings or issues with the magnets. Took off the stator and could finally see a single problem coil that was slightly black. Installed new stator and everything works great! I believe when I kept pressing the trim switch the voltage spiked at that particular coil on the stator and caused the coil to fail. All along the motor would start, run, idle and roar if you wanted it to....however, the battery would have eventually fried and possibly caught fire or exploded due to the voltage rising as the RPMs increased.

    Sounds like yes you may have a bad stator from your description.


    well.................guess i better start getting some overtime at work
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    its gonna get tested this week when i get a break at work
  • reelpleasurereelpleasure Posts: 754 Officer
    Just a thought. Check all your bolts holding the top main bearing, also check for any play in the crank. I had an Evinrude with similar issues. It was still under warranty, but the bolts backed out that hold the top main bearing in. The play in the crank ended up with them replacing the entire power head. I complained several times, and they could never find anything wrong with it until it was too late. I think 3 of the 8 bolts were broke off and the others were lose.
  • latitudeajustmentlatitudeajustment Posts: 2,039 Captain
    Eric, you said it....debacle....oh what a headache and costly repair. I never would have guessed it was the stator to begin with. Naturally I forgot to mention the fact I could not get the engine off the boat without a forklift to fix the initial main problem--that of replacing the trim unit! Then of course had to hunt down a used part to replace the corroded manual release screw...figured if this has problems again I want to hopefully be able to manually release the motor to lower or raise it!
  • Fish HaidFish Haid Posts: 8,417 Admiral
    Very common to have a bad stator that is defective when hot, and then tests OK when cool. Very aggravating.

    Stators used to always be sealed with that "goo" (potting compound?). Some manufacturers now reccommend not potting the coils. I think it's to keep them cooler.
    23895.gif
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    Got it tested today. everything checked out good. mechanic said the rectifier going out could have caused the stator to get warm and "goo" and that was prolly do to the horrific connection on my cranking battery. new rec should be in by thursday. gonna put it back together and see what happens
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    You're playing with a cascading problem set. USUALLY on a motor with a stator and regulator they stator puts out full power all the time and the regulator dumps the excess as heat.. On some etecs that heat goes to a water cooling passage. I don't think a rectifier going out will kill a stator very often.
    But a bad connection to your battery will absolutely kill a regulator/rectifier. THat was in my post that ain't here anymore...?


    As you see above a stator can test good and be bad when warm.
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • bobg56bobg56 Posts: 14 Greenhorn
    Just been through this with my 250 Johnson Ocean Pro. My rectifier/regulator burned up, not from stators but I had corroded battery cables. The neg. wire looked ok but broke off when I wiggled on it, and my pos. wire from bat.#1 was bent in a tight loop causing the 10yr old insulation to crack letting the wire badly corrode. My stator windings looked ok except for a small amount of black tackey ouze. I replace regulator and cables, engine runs fine, voltage about 13.5/14 volts. Look at your cables, connections carefully, they may look ok but you need to tug at them to make sure they are not loose or corroded.
  • bobg56bobg56 Posts: 14 Greenhorn
    just a follow up on my other reply, the gray wire on the regulator is for the tach. a good mech told me that if your tach goes out it MAY be the regulator getting ready to crap out, if of course the tach is good...good luck
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    bobg56 wrote: »
    just a follow up on my other reply, the gray wire on the regulator is for the tach. a good mech told me that if your tach goes out it MAY be the regulator getting ready to crap out, if of course the tach is good...good luck

    true story. looks like you and i have delt with the samr mess. my batt connection on the ground was toast. havnt had theboat long so got a few details to iron out. my tach is fine. the onl reason i knew the rec went out is cuz the tach quit
  • ReelhootReelhoot Posts: 251 Officer
    Just my .02 worth. ALWAYS have a good battery! The stator/regulator are ONLY meant to maqintain charge in a battery;not charge when in a low state of charge or when the battery is on it's last legs! Too many people that had to get jump started to get going are overheating the stator/regulator which leads to an early death!
    Yes, make sure the connections are TIGHT!
    Matter of fact,Interstate Battery no longer uses wing nuts;only a hex nut that you can/should tighten with a wrench due to the fact that vibrationand insufficient tightening has lead to some of the adjustment problems they've experienced over the years.
    http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p341728

    FOR RENT: Beautiful 2 bed 2 bath condo in Hunter Springs, Crystal River
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    i changed my leads form the old wingnut style to real battery leads. they are dual post battries, might as well use the best style with the most contact. trolling motor leads as well
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    new rectifier is in,stator tests good, still no signal to the tach!
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    switched the gray wire to the num 3 post and all is good. ran it for a good bit.
    IM WATER WORTHY AGAIN YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE:fishing:grin:Rockon

    RIPN' LIPS THIS WEEKEND!!!
  • BoatelectronicguyBoatelectronicguy Posts: 48 Deckhand
    Glad to hear that things worked out for you. On your stator, the three black coils that are oozing are the charge coils that create the primary current for the ignition system. They have nothing to do with the 12 volt charging system. The open windings on the stator are for the battery charging system. These are the two similar but seperate functions of the stator.

    It is very common to see those ignition charge coils leak. As the insulation leaks out it allows some of the coil windings to short out to each other, effectively reducing the number of wire windings contributing to the production of electrical current. As there are hundreds if not thousands of windings in each coil, it takes a while for this to become an issue. Sooner or later you'll loose enough power output on the ignition side of the stator to have ignition problems.
  • Travis GTravis G Kentucky😢Posts: 500 Deckhand
    Glad to hear that things worked out for you. On your stator, the three black coils that are oozing are the charge coils that create the primary current for the ignition system. They have nothing to do with the 12 volt charging system. The open windings on the stator are for the battery charging system. These are the two similar but seperate functions of the stator.

    It is very common to see those ignition charge coils leak. As the insulation leaks out it allows some of the coil windings to short out to each other, effectively reducing the number of wire windings contributing to the production of electrical current. As there are hundreds if not thousands of windings in each coil, it takes a while for this to become an issue. Sooner or later you'll loose enough power output on the ignition side of the stator to have ignition problems.

    makes sense to me,,,,,,,thanks for the input
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