Help!!! Welded Loop Issue...???

Capt No SlackCapt No Slack Posts: 41 Greenhorn

I still consider myself a beginner at fly fishing!

Most of my fly fishing is with a full sinking head attached to an intermediate running line. I am often fishing in stained, murky, muddy water.

With the species I target and my style of fishing I like to use leaders that are approximately 4ft to 5ft long

I like the knotless tapered leaders, However its hard to find any under 6 ft. They are expensive and since Im fishing sub-surface, blind casting I don't think Im getting my moneys worth from the knotless tapered leader. Plus I get wind knots or overhand knots in my leader from poor casting skills. Inevitably, I will get a wind knot pulled so tight by a fish I cant untangle it. The over hand knot/wind knot in the leader weakens it substantially....so Im taking it off and putting on a new one.

What I have been doing I take a piece of 30# mono 1.5 ft long with a perfection loop on each end. I attach the 30# mono perfection loop the the Welded loop of my fly line and then I attach another piece of 10 to 15 pound fluorocarbon about 3 foot long with a perfection loop in on end and lure on the other.

I am happy with the loop to loop connection (hand shake connection) where the 30# pound mono connects to the fly line.

However I am not Satisfied with the loop to loop connection of the 10# to the 30#, it always seems to hing...It will not stay connected in the text book "Hand Shake" position.

I would like to simply connect my 10/15# leader directly to my factory welded loop and do away with the 30# altogether. But when I have done this in the past the thin diameter of the 10/15# cuts through the fly line coating. This really bothers me because the Rio lines I use cost $100 each.

I do not want to cut of the factory welded loop off and simply nail knot my 10/15# direct to the fly line. I often fish spawning runs of fish and can catch 100 fish per day, leaders gets worn and needs to be replaced frequently so the nail knot directly to fly line would not work because I would eventually cut away all of my fly line tip by replacing the leader and nail knot. I really do not like the thought gradually cutting away inch by inch a $100 fly line!

So....has anyone figured out how to attach a shot piece of thin diameter leader to the factory welded loop and not have it cut through the fly line coating under the pressure of a fish???

Some kind of chaff protection on the thin diameter leader loop?
Some kind of chaff protection the the Factory Welded loop?

Any advice will be appreciated

Thanks

Replies

  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,239 Captain

    Options are:

    1- braided mono loop to replace your factory welded loop.
    2- tie your own tapered leaders.
    3- use a short section of 50lb as a buffer between your line and your class #.

    I spend a lot of time drifting type IV density compensated lines, typically 400gr or more. I use a nail knot because I have to break fish off frequently, and the habitat requires 40/50lb leaders (No taper, just 6-7' of 50lb flouro).
    That being said, you don't fish here, and I doubt I've ever been where you're at. You seem to understand that the smaller diameter materials are damaging your line, to me it seems really obvious what you need to do. Is there any particular reason why you're not building your own tapered leaders?

  • Capt No SlackCapt No Slack Posts: 41 Greenhorn

    thanks for the advice....

    I will try some of your suggestion including building my own tapered leaders

  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 2,866 Captain

    One other possibility that many salt anglers have been using for years... is to double up your line before making a loop in the end of a bit of leader. Two strands compared to one strand and your loop will survive a lot of pressure. I normally do a bimini twist to double my line - then do a surgeon's loop with the doubled end - works like a charm (if you haven't learned the bimini - a spider hitch will produce almost the same results (but not as strong as the bimini...).

    Here's a pic of one of the loops I'm talking about....
    [img]https://i.imgur.com/3UiTmwv.jpg[/img]

    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • TgrassTgrass Posts: 204 Deckhand
    When I read your post you said you like a 6 ft tapered leader and then I looked at what you said you did to make your own. Unless I missed something your math doesn't add up. You said you use 1.5 feet of 30# with perfection loops  and then connect to the fly line and then you add 3 ft of 10 to 15# to that for you fly. That add up to 4.5 ft. 

    I think if you want a 6 foot leader all you need to do is 1.5 ft of 30# with a nail knot to 1.5 ft of 20# then then a perfection loop for you 10 or 15# tippet. I think that would solve your problem.
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,239 Captain
    Tgrass said:
    When I read your post you said you like a 6 ft tapered leader and then I looked at what you said you did to make your own. Unless I missed something your math doesn't add up. You said you use 1.5 feet of 30# with perfection loops  and then connect to the fly line and then you add 3 ft of 10 to 15# to that for you fly. That add up to 4.5 ft. 

    I think if you want a 6 foot leader all you need to do is 1.5 ft of 30# with a nail knot to 1.5 ft of 20# then then a perfection loop for you 10 or 15# tippet. I think that would solve your problem.
     He said "approximately 4-5 feet", and that he had issues finding tapered leaders under 6'. And he never said he was building his own leaders. 
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