I am going to move off my Olympus platform.
I can chose from a number of cameras as a retirement gift from my company. They gave 40-50 selections across all manufacturers but I have decided to go Nikon. I have narrowed it down to the following packages, what I can select based on years of service.
What do you think regarding these packages?
Nikon - D7200 DSLR Camera (Body Only) - Black
Nikon - D7100 DSLR Camera with 18-55mm VR II and 55-300mm VR Lenses - Black
Nikon - J5 Mirrorless Camera with NIKKOR 10-100mm f/4-5.6 VR Lens - White
B&H has each of these listed at just over $1K.
Use will be outdoors mainly, cruising on our own boat.
Maybe if we tell people that the brain is an App, they will start using it.
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****, that piece of glass ain't cheap!! :hairraiser
Wondering if I should get the 7200 and then just bite the bullet and get the fuller range lens at an extra $200 or so?
Only downside I see on reviews in the weight, since you would always be carrying this around.
2. dont waste your time with the kit 18-55 or 55-300.
Both are probably no better than your Olympus gear. These two do have advantages of being really light, if that's an issue...
3. $496 for a lens (18-140) is not a lot!
4. spend the grand and get the 16-300. It will be the only lens you ever need, no switching lenses, no big cases, just one small pelican case and your good for anywhere. I dont know anything about it, but you usually get what you pay for with Nikon. I use a 28-300 on my FX bodies quite a bit these days, looks like the same lens, same cost, and I've been getting pro results most of the time. The 18-200 would save you $350, and some weight, but not get you as close to birds and such.
5. Get the 7200 for sure! Any DX below that is not worth much in my opinion.
OR, step up to full frame, D610, $1500, and get the 28-300. If had your deep pockets, I sure would.
Shop KEH used to save some bucks. You could get the 18-105 VR which will be a good deal less expensive. It's pretty good glass for what it is. If you are shooting early or late faster glass is your friend but the price to play is higher.
Nope. Never had my hands on one.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/872407-REG/Nikon_AF_S_DX_18_300mm_f_3_5_5_6G.html
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/18-300mm.htm
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1045736-REG/nikon_2216_af_s_dx_18_300mm_f_3_5_5_6g.html
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/18-300mm-vr.htm
Camera is really good without a lot of $$$.
One more question on this - any way of defining the impact to light with that 0.7 aperture difference, understanding that this is the max at 300 zoom.
https://pixelpeeper.com/adv/?lens=13620&camera=2005&perpage=12&focal_min=none&focal_max=none&aperture_min=none&aperture_max=none&iso_min=none&iso_max=none&exp_min=none&exp_max=none&res=3
FWIW:
The on board flash may be blocked with the lens zoomed out.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/750015-REG/Vello_RW_N2_FreeWave_Wireless_Remote_Shutter.html
Will do that this evening.
And the manual -390 pages! :hairraiser
I am going to get a 18-300 3.5-5.6, plus look for a prime lens as well,
Thanks.
Just read the summary on that. Not sure I am quite ready for that, but will think about it! Maybe for now I need to play a bit with it.
after that point, they get really soft on focus at 1/2 zoom, outward...
if you can find a "MTF" graph for that lens, and compare it to 4:1 glass you'll see what I mean...
18mm-300 is absurd if you want sharp images with good contrast...
the best piece of "walking around" glass I have is a canon EF-L 24mm-105mm f4 IS USM glass.....
I can get really good images at 200% crop on a FF body with it, if need be...
on my FF body, I have the 24-105, and carry my EF-L 100mm-400mm IS around and it covers just about anything I want to shoot, and they are tack sharp images...
The Real White Dog
if you can't catch a fish...catch a buzz....
#12976, joined 8-17-2002
Thanks. I am going to get something much lighter than the 18-300, it really is a weight.
I am looking at the 24-85 f2.8. I would like the 24-120 but it is really up there in cost and I am already 2K in this past week!
The 80-200 2.8 is one of their best. Find the two ring not the slide. Mine is not VR but it does a whale of a job. See the first base shot done with my old 6 meg D50
http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?239059-Canon-or-Nikon
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
You should be good to go!
Remember, shutter speed is king! in other words keep it real high, don't be afraid of high ISO. Never use auto ISO. At a minimum, shutter speed should be twice the focal length you're shooting.
I shoot everything in P mode. For Professional...well, actually program. then I use the +/- exposure compensation for back lit or bright highlights.
Post up, and not tiny little images. Go big. Good luck, welcome to the team.
tim
The Real White Dog
if you can't catch a fish...catch a buzz....
#12976, joined 8-17-2002
I do shoot all manual for concert and sports. And any flash photography. TTL metering
Although, renting is a far more practical approach if the lens is deathly expensive and will have limited actual use.
There is a shop up your way, www.lensfly.com
Good luck!