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Signaturestrike
Posts: 457 Deckhand
Deleting bow rail off a dusky!!
Signaturestrike
Posts: 457 Deckhand
Hey guys was looking through my pictures and found another project i did where we deleted the bow rail off of a dusky. What I'm going to show you and explain is how we would in a professional shop setting repair screw holes and make it look as if it never existed.
First off let's take a look at the area in which the bow rail was
So if you look you can see the 3 holes which were the mounting points for the bow rail pads.
At this stage I took a grinder and ground out just a little outside the screw holes.
Now some may argue that all you need to do is slap some filler in the holes. Or you could just dish the holes out and wipe those with fillers etc. That is not that "proper" way to do it. And here's why..... If you just pack the hole with filler the filler WILL SHRINK over time and you will be left with the prints of those 3 holes in your newly painted deck. Or you could dish out each individual hole and pack and fill the holes and pull a wipe of glazing putty to block but again it will shrink and print through.
So I make a thickened epoxy mixture with cabosil added to a consistency of peanut butter and I pack the holes and pulled a extremely tight wipe into the groove. You'll notice the stir stick in the picture. That's actually my straight edge I used for dishing out the holes so I would know i could lay 3 pieces of glass in there.
Which is what I did next and this was done before the thickened epoxy kicked off(hardened). I wetted out the fiberglass and laid them smallest first, then medium followed by the 3rd piece which should be just inside your grind edge so you dont have to grind as much glass off and do less bodywork
Glass is laid. Pretty much smooth with original gelcoat so not much grinding. All I will have to do is pull a wipe to block my bodywork which I will use guide coat and start my blocking at 80 grit just to cut the initial filler. Then guide coat between each grit going 80-220-320 then primer
After the blocking we shoot primer and it looks like it never had a bow rail. Nor will our repair ever print through and show.
Then once done it was nonskidded with griptex and came out pretty darn nice.
First off let's take a look at the area in which the bow rail was
So if you look you can see the 3 holes which were the mounting points for the bow rail pads.
At this stage I took a grinder and ground out just a little outside the screw holes.
Now some may argue that all you need to do is slap some filler in the holes. Or you could just dish the holes out and wipe those with fillers etc. That is not that "proper" way to do it. And here's why..... If you just pack the hole with filler the filler WILL SHRINK over time and you will be left with the prints of those 3 holes in your newly painted deck. Or you could dish out each individual hole and pack and fill the holes and pull a wipe of glazing putty to block but again it will shrink and print through.
So I make a thickened epoxy mixture with cabosil added to a consistency of peanut butter and I pack the holes and pulled a extremely tight wipe into the groove. You'll notice the stir stick in the picture. That's actually my straight edge I used for dishing out the holes so I would know i could lay 3 pieces of glass in there.
Which is what I did next and this was done before the thickened epoxy kicked off(hardened). I wetted out the fiberglass and laid them smallest first, then medium followed by the 3rd piece which should be just inside your grind edge so you dont have to grind as much glass off and do less bodywork
Glass is laid. Pretty much smooth with original gelcoat so not much grinding. All I will have to do is pull a wipe to block my bodywork which I will use guide coat and start my blocking at 80 grit just to cut the initial filler. Then guide coat between each grit going 80-220-320 then primer
After the blocking we shoot primer and it looks like it never had a bow rail. Nor will our repair ever print through and show.
Then once done it was nonskidded with griptex and came out pretty darn nice.
