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Plumbing Question - Residential Well
As I mentioned previously, a tree branch took out the plumbing at my well tank. Today, I repaired it, but I also made some changes.
Previously, the tank was connected nearest to the well head, and the pressure switch was right there also. There is also a whole-house filter which was between the tank and the house. I moved the filter to upstream of the tank because I figured I might as well filter the water going to the tank. Tank is less than a year old.
When I opened the valve to the house (which is far away), the pumped started short-cycling really bad. Bouncing on-off every 2 seconds. Checked tank pressure and bled pipes in house, but still happening.
I'm guessing maybe the problem is that pressure switch needs to be at the tank (which is after the filter)?
Previously, the tank was connected nearest to the well head, and the pressure switch was right there also. There is also a whole-house filter which was between the tank and the house. I moved the filter to upstream of the tank because I figured I might as well filter the water going to the tank. Tank is less than a year old.
When I opened the valve to the house (which is far away), the pumped started short-cycling really bad. Bouncing on-off every 2 seconds. Checked tank pressure and bled pipes in house, but still happening.
I'm guessing maybe the problem is that pressure switch needs to be at the tank (which is after the filter)?
Replies
The filter before the tank could also be causing your problems depending on the type. Untreated water will not hurt the tank. The system won't backwash ( I assume you are using a backwash system that cleans the media) properly with the filter before the tank.
I just installed an Iron and sulfur filter for my brother and replaced his pressure tank and switch just last month.
my 2c
Former Mini Mart Magnate
I am just here for my amusement.
This. Replumb.
It matters much if there is a filter in between. Big nono. Nothing, not even a shut off, between the wellhead/ pressure switch/ bladder tank.
After you remove the filter from between the well and pressure tank/ switch:
Cut the power off to the pump and depressurize the water piping.
Your badder tank should be pressurized to 2# less than the power on rating of your pressure switch. Ex: 40-60# switch= 38# air pressure in bladder tank. Again: This must be measured with water/ line pressure at ZERO.
If you still have problems short cycling, you may have a bad bladder tank or pressure switch.
Keep your pressure switch and pressure tank together.
Installed new tank - not tested yet because it started raining (a lot).
You still need to move the filter, it won't backflush correctly.
Former Mini Mart Magnate
I am just here for my amusement.
Backflush? No idea what you mean. It is a filter, not a softener.
A sediment filter? That is even worse to put in front of the tank and pressure switch.
Most whole house iron, sulfur, mineral filters use a media to filter the contaminates and then back flush to clean the media.
A sediment filter is worthless and might as well just remove it.
Former Mini Mart Magnate
I am just here for my amusement.
Sediment filter worthless??? I guess you're right - after all, it only keeps out the sediment. Wait - that's what it's for. It works good too!!! I can see how you might not want one though - if you like sand in your ice cubes and rust flakes in your washing machine. Cleaning those faucet strainers weekly is also lots of fun! My sediment is mostly rust specks - the well guy said it was due to someone putting bleach down there at some point. I remember one time before I had a filter - the carpenter ants made nest in the control box, and dead ants were coming out of the faucet.
Water is clear, odorless, and very tasty!!!!!!