Home Rod Building and Reel Repair

shimano roller clutch rebuild

johnDjohnD WC FLPosts: 6,419 Admiral
Credit for this goes to MattK of the 2CoolFishing Forum.

He did the write up and the pics. I am just copying and pasting.

I figured I'd post it here so we could have it on this forum for reference. It does come in handy but , I'd recommend not taking it apart unless it's your only option. It is somewhat tedious and is best preformed with tweezers and good lighting.

The springs go on the posts as seen in pic 1. The long arm of the spring should be placed inward and towards the bottom. Rotate them counter clockwise until the long arm is against the roller support (a word I made up for the semi-square shaped thing). Disregard the spring at 7 o'clock, it is out of position but all the rest are where they need to be.


Place the rollers back into position as seen in pic2. Make sure they are not on top of the spring arm.


Place the roller cage (yet another word I made up for the round metal thing) in position as seen in pic 3. Take notice that it will only fit one way.


Place the black felt ring back in.


Now it's time to place the top back on. First, take a look at pic 5 and 6. You will notice the top is in a different position. Place the top back on like you see in pic 5.


Now rotate the top clockwise until it looks like pic 6. This tucks the short arm of the spring in (which rotates the spring, coils it, transfers pressure to the long arm which pushes the roller against the roller support, which keeps the roller in place, and make the bearing work blah blah blah...).


Find the home of the bearing screw, only one place for it to go, and you're done re-assembling the bearing.


A few more pics of reinstalling the bearing. When you place the bearing back on the frame make sure everything is lined up properly. The anti-reverse switch should fit in the little notch on the bearing as seen in these pics.



Also the clutch tube should be placed with the ...... just look at the pic you will figure it out.




  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,844 Captain
    I only took apart one of those roller clutches on one occasion - and made a point of never doing that again.... Seriously, all that's needed to restore one to proper functioning is to immerse it in a de-greaser (my choice is mineral spirits -called paint thinner in most stores), clean the bearing surfaces with a toothbrush, then thoroughly dry it as much as possible. All you do then is re-install it with no lube whatsoever and it will work like a new part.... I've done this dozens of times on my own and on customer's Stradics (starting back in 1997 when I bought my first four (two 4000, two 2000FE's). Maybe one out of ten can't be brought back this way and if it fails to hold then it gets tossed and a new roller clutch assembly is used...

    Now if you really need a puzzle to work on -good luck with taking one apart....
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • johnDjohnD WC FLPosts: 6,419 Admiral
    Thanks for the insight , Bob. Like I said , only recommended if it's your last option. I just got done working on a friend of mines reel , he got hit by a few waves fishing in the surf and let it sit for a month in his garage. With some elbow grease I was able to get it working again. Luckily those rollers are stainless.
  • jcanracerjcanracer Posts: 4,344 Moderator
    I also took one apart...and I didn't know you weren't supposed to lubricate it, so it didn't work. I bought a new clutch assembly instead. expensive lesson.
    I am hesitant to buy another Shimano spinning reel for fear of this part going bad again.
    Hobie Kayak angler for life!
  • johnDjohnD WC FLPosts: 6,419 Admiral
    Shimano reels work just fine if you keep the saltwater out of them..If you get splashed , sprayed , hit by a wave or the reel gets dunked your reel needs to be serviced that night. Totally stripped down cleaned in solvent dried and re lubed. It pays to know how to do this on your own ,so you're not dependent on a tackle shop.

    If you are you doing any of the above on a regular basis you might want to look into something like the penn torque , van staal , zeebaas or daiwa isla.

    Just tips for someone that may have less experience reading this thread.
  • jcanracerjcanracer Posts: 4,344 Moderator
    I agree John, BTW I fish out of a kayak, so saltwater intrusion is inevitable. I love my stradic ci4, but I am more confident servicing my Penn conflict/battle/SSV reels.
    But kudos for finding this article!
    Hobie Kayak angler for life!
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,844 Captain
    The funny thing about roller clutches is that the only thing I've ever found that messed one up is for any oil or grease to get onto those nice rollers (and that's just what happens if you get carried away with greasing the pinion bearing or the spool shaft..). I actually repaired one of my own (a 4000FH) today that had just that problem. In less than 15 minutes start to finish it was all sorted out, back together and ready for my next booking (my standard load on the skiff is 8 rods... so I get a bit of practice sorting out one reel or other).

    As far as a dunked Stradic, or any other reel without a very carefully sealed case (and good ones are a bunch of money -VanStal for instance...) is that modern reels have lots of bearings and they'll go bad very quickly if the reel was dunked in the salt. That's the main reason for quickly tearing down, cleaning, and re-lubing a reel that's gotten "salted". Even with that kind of response -some or all of your bearings will probably have a greatly shortened life once the reel gets dunked. Been there more than once....
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • Pescatoral PursuitPescatoral Pursuit Posts: 5,065 Admiral
    Gosh, I take them apart as routine service. Most of it is redundant.
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