We have ~20yo Kohlers & they still work, but replacement parts are expensive & can be hard to find. Depending on the 'level' of the other fixtures, I might recommend the ~$100 Glacier Bay (spend the savings on a nice reel)
Having read the responses after this I no longer recommend the GB, apparently it's CRAP
There should be NO Commercial Fishing for any fish species considered 'Over-fished' , 'Undergoing Overfishing' or Subject to Recreational Seasons, Limits, or Closures... Game Fish Status IS the Answer !!!
From someone who's been in the business a long time...
Just stick with the brand name manufacturers; they go from good enough to very good. And as we say in the trade: "Stay away from Glacier Bay." And Peerless Pottery. You get the idea.
Much of the range in prices that you are seeing in those particular models is due to them being part of a style ensemble. Meaning that the lines will match a basin and tub package of the same name with many also having a faucet and tub faucet kit that is also similar.
See the different shape of the Cimarron and Devonshire lines? If you look at sink basins in the Cimarron and Devonshire lines you will see that they are made to look like a matching set. That is where much of the cost difference comes from. They are for people who want a "designed" look.
The important things to consider in a toilet are the porcelain coating and where it stops in the bottom of the bowl, seat height and whether you want elongated or round. Also of consideration is the measurement from the water line to the top of the seat.
How far the porcelain coating extends into the bottom and along the throat will determine how slick the path is that the things you are flushing travel along. More is better as it will be easier to keep clean and the paper and whatever is more likely to slow down going past a rough path as it would be along a very smooth slick path. Check this out by putting your hand down the hole and feeling how far the smooth porcelain goes. Stick your hand down the cheapest, then down an expensive one and you will feel the difference.
Seat height has to do with comfort, if you are building an ADA bath, then there is a taller seat height available so a person can slide directly from a wheelchair to the seat. Also if you are taller than 6'2" this may be a more comfortable height to sit down on and get up off from.
Elongated toilets are oval shaped in the front, this allows more room for getting your hand down there to clean yourself when you are done with your business. Height from water line to the seat is how much room your hand will have to wipe yourself without touching the water that you have just dropped yesterdays dinner into.
Also of note in the toilets you have in your comparison is the "flush valve size". I think this is the size of the opening from the tank to the bowl, a bigger hole will release the metered amount (1.28 gallons) faster and provide more of a woosh, to get things moving faster.
One thing to be sure of before you buy anything is the rough in size, 10", 11", 12" or 14". That is the distance from the wall to the center of the closet bolts that hold the thing to the floor. This is important so that the back of the tank will be close to the wall and not have a big gap or not fit like if you try to put a 12" toilet on a 10" rough in size.
You may want to watch a few of these to get an idea of what you are buying.
Nothing like a question about (and the word toilet) to bring out obsessive-compulsive humor via the fringe replies from others on this forum.
Do though appreciate all the serious comments -- that have changed my thinking and prompt additional research.
:thumbsup
You act like you just got here......:rotflmao
I would stick with Kohler or American Standard.....
And I agree with the handicapped model if you are older. I put a Mansfield handicapped in my MIL place...and it is a "Cadillac" ...BUT...It is a super PIA to change the flushometer....you have to take the tank off!
There are many roads to travel
Many things to do.
Knots to be unraveled
'fore the darkness falls on you
If you are doing it yourself make sure you measure the thickness or width of the back of the back. I got a Cimarron and it works great but the back was much wider then the old toilet and I had to sweat and elbow to extend my water-line away for the toilet for it to fit.
"The test of a first-rate intelligence is the ability to hold two opposed ideas in the mind at the same time, and still retain the ability to function." F. Scott Fitzgerald
"Prediction is very difficult, especially if it's about the future." Niels Bohr
Handicap flushers, most of your life in the toilet... Let's set up a pinochle team in here
Not me....I've known when I need to $h!+ since I was 2 years old....I go into the bathroom and handle that chore and then leave.....there are more comfortable places to read.
There are many roads to travel
Many things to do.
Knots to be unraveled
'fore the darkness falls on you
The elongated toilets are elongated at the front of the bowl and unless there is an issue with how far the front is to the wall in front of it this is not an issue.
The issue is the distance from the wall in back of the toilet to the center of the bolts that hold the thing to the floor.
This is a factor of the bowl design where it curves up then down creating the water trap and the distance that the tank extends behind the bowl assembly. What I mentioned in my first post as being the "rough in size" or also called the setback.
It is set at initial construction of the home and 12" is most common, but distances of 10" and 14" are out there. Many models of a particular toilet are available in more than one setback size. Just be sure that the new toilet you get is the same as the old one you are getting rid of. You can measure this before removing the old toilet by simply measuring from the finished wall at the top of the tank with it's cover in place, (not the base or trim tile face) to the center of the existing bolts after taking off the bolt cap.
If you are going the whole show and installing new drain pipe for the toilet in the floor, 12" is the most common distance for the rough in. This is then measured from the wall, (remember to allow for the finish whether it is 5/8 greenboard or 1/2 durrock and tile or what ever) to the bolt holes in the flange. Also remember to account for the flange height to the finished floor, not the rough floor, although different wax rings and flange extenders can compensate for these mistakes.
I do agree that many toilets normal height without a seat of 16 1/2" is to low for many tall people, remember that there are also different seat heights available, meaning the thickness of the seat, some made for retrofitting are thicker but are not recommended unless it is a temporary fix. I once remodeled a bathroom for a man who stood 7'6", even the ADA toilet that was installed when he had the house built was not high enough. We installed a false floor that was 8" above the rest of the floor around the toilet so that his feet sat on the lower floor but the toilet was mounted on the raised floor. He loved it. Had to redo the drain pipe and flange and all, but expense was not that big of an issue for him.
Strap me in, tie me down and roll me a bone, I'm getting on an airplane and I'm flying home...
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Replies
Having read the responses after this I no longer recommend the GB, apparently it's CRAP
Go to the Plumbing supply ...
Fergusons house brand is pretty good (Just add two extra brass washers and nuts just under the tank ...
Or Go top of the line and get a TOTO
Just stick with the brand name manufacturers; they go from good enough to very good. And as we say in the trade: "Stay away from Glacier Bay." And Peerless Pottery. You get the idea.
Much of the range in prices that you are seeing in those particular models is due to them being part of a style ensemble. Meaning that the lines will match a basin and tub package of the same name with many also having a faucet and tub faucet kit that is also similar.
See the different shape of the Cimarron and Devonshire lines? If you look at sink basins in the Cimarron and Devonshire lines you will see that they are made to look like a matching set. That is where much of the cost difference comes from. They are for people who want a "designed" look.
The important things to consider in a toilet are the porcelain coating and where it stops in the bottom of the bowl, seat height and whether you want elongated or round. Also of consideration is the measurement from the water line to the top of the seat.
How far the porcelain coating extends into the bottom and along the throat will determine how slick the path is that the things you are flushing travel along. More is better as it will be easier to keep clean and the paper and whatever is more likely to slow down going past a rough path as it would be along a very smooth slick path. Check this out by putting your hand down the hole and feeling how far the smooth porcelain goes. Stick your hand down the cheapest, then down an expensive one and you will feel the difference.
Seat height has to do with comfort, if you are building an ADA bath, then there is a taller seat height available so a person can slide directly from a wheelchair to the seat. Also if you are taller than 6'2" this may be a more comfortable height to sit down on and get up off from.
Elongated toilets are oval shaped in the front, this allows more room for getting your hand down there to clean yourself when you are done with your business. Height from water line to the seat is how much room your hand will have to wipe yourself without touching the water that you have just dropped yesterdays dinner into.
Also of note in the toilets you have in your comparison is the "flush valve size". I think this is the size of the opening from the tank to the bowl, a bigger hole will release the metered amount (1.28 gallons) faster and provide more of a woosh, to get things moving faster.
I do not agree with the $100 Glacier Bay choice. I've tried GB products and have not been happy with any of them in any application. ( I was a remodeler and have several rental properties and an apartment house). I recommend more along the lines of the American Standard clean white with the adjustable flush. http://www.lowes.com/pd_84065-834-3381.216.020_4294737213__?productId=3306730&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=
Yes, TOTO is the best I have seen.
One thing to be sure of before you buy anything is the rough in size, 10", 11", 12" or 14". That is the distance from the wall to the center of the closet bolts that hold the thing to the floor. This is important so that the back of the tank will be close to the wall and not have a big gap or not fit like if you try to put a 12" toilet on a 10" rough in size.
You may want to watch a few of these to get an idea of what you are buying.
Keep posting all these .gifs and TTT is gonna get jealous.
I am impressed you Q-tips know what a .gif is
Yea. OK. Old guy.
Xeleventy
Nothing like a question about (and the word toilet) to bring out obsessive-compulsive humor via the fringe replies from others on this forum.
Do though appreciate all the serious comments -- that have changed my thinking and prompt additional research.
:thumbsup
A southeast Florida laid back beach bum and volunteer bikini assessor who lives on island time.
You act like you just got here......:rotflmao
I would stick with Kohler or American Standard.....
And I agree with the handicapped model if you are older. I put a Mansfield handicapped in my MIL place...and it is a "Cadillac" ...BUT...It is a super PIA to change the flushometer....you have to take the tank off!
Many things to do.
Knots to be unraveled
'fore the darkness falls on you
"Prediction is very difficult, especially if it's about the future." Niels Bohr
SIL put in the Handicap Toilet and his feet wouldn't touch the floor.
Not me....I've known when I need to $h!+ since I was 2 years old....I go into the bathroom and handle that chore and then leave.....there are more comfortable places to read.
Many things to do.
Knots to be unraveled
'fore the darkness falls on you
http://www.americanstandard-us.com/toilets/Cadet-PRO-Compact-Right-Height-Elongated-12-Rough-In-Toilet-5659/
$445 seems like a lot for a **** bucket..... but I haven't shopped for one in almost 10 years.
Many things to do.
Knots to be unraveled
'fore the darkness falls on you
Oops, I had the wrong model. Should have been the 1.6 gallon flush.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Cadet+PRO+Compact+Right+Height+Elongated+1.28+gpf+Toilet&tbm=shop
I watched the video in full screen with the sound turned way up. Does that count for anything?
Got two of these. Nice and easy to clean. Good flusher. Fine toilet. 170$
The issue is the distance from the wall in back of the toilet to the center of the bolts that hold the thing to the floor.
This is a factor of the bowl design where it curves up then down creating the water trap and the distance that the tank extends behind the bowl assembly. What I mentioned in my first post as being the "rough in size" or also called the setback.
It is set at initial construction of the home and 12" is most common, but distances of 10" and 14" are out there. Many models of a particular toilet are available in more than one setback size. Just be sure that the new toilet you get is the same as the old one you are getting rid of. You can measure this before removing the old toilet by simply measuring from the finished wall at the top of the tank with it's cover in place, (not the base or trim tile face) to the center of the existing bolts after taking off the bolt cap.
If you are going the whole show and installing new drain pipe for the toilet in the floor, 12" is the most common distance for the rough in. This is then measured from the wall, (remember to allow for the finish whether it is 5/8 greenboard or 1/2 durrock and tile or what ever) to the bolt holes in the flange. Also remember to account for the flange height to the finished floor, not the rough floor, although different wax rings and flange extenders can compensate for these mistakes.
I do agree that many toilets normal height without a seat of 16 1/2" is to low for many tall people, remember that there are also different seat heights available, meaning the thickness of the seat, some made for retrofitting are thicker but are not recommended unless it is a temporary fix. I once remodeled a bathroom for a man who stood 7'6", even the ADA toilet that was installed when he had the house built was not high enough. We installed a false floor that was 8" above the rest of the floor around the toilet so that his feet sat on the lower floor but the toilet was mounted on the raised floor. He loved it. Had to redo the drain pipe and flange and all, but expense was not that big of an issue for him.