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Egret powder coated rod holders

seavee05seavee05 Posts: 42 Greenhorn
Ok, it's time to update the plastic rod holders on my 1999 c/k. I ordered a pair of the anodized ones I've been seeing on the moccasins, but when they arrived they were brushed not polished and didn't match the poling tower.

So I sent them back and now I'm thinking about the white powder coated ones that Frank puts on the new boats.
Does anyone have any thoughts on these. I also saw very nice individual anodized ones made by Bluepoint marine fabricators. I like them too.

2nd question:

I purchased gas hatch lifts that I have yet to install. These new friction hinges look like a better option for the forward hatches. Any thoughts? I will need to use the gas lifts for my helm seat for sure. But I like the idea of just changing the hinges on the light weight hatches.

Pete,
Could you tell me if I'll be able to access all the screws on the forward deck to replace the hinges?
Or would I need to cut an access port in the anchor locker.

Oh, and hey, Congratulations to the new Egret family members!
The more you use these boats and put them through some challenging situations, The more you will love them!



Thanks and best regards to All.
5l8lqw.jpg
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Replies

  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    The new console rod holders have angled reel slots for the rods so that they sit better. You've probably seen that feature on the 189 walk through video. The Moccasin ones don't have this. I wanted the Moccasin ones too for the same reason you did, to match my poling platform which will be just anodized aluminum. I've decided to go with the new white ones because of the angles which is a nice feature. Now I'm extra glad I did because you are saying they don't match well.

    I fished a 7 year old C/K in Duck Key that had the new ones. Not sure if he had them put on later (he is Frank's buddy) or if they too were 7 years old. They had some minor chipping on the white part down to the underlying metal. Nothing too major.
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    seavee05 wrote: »
    Ok, it's time to update the plastic rod holders on my 1999 c/k. I ordered a pair of the anodized ones I've been seeing on the moccasins, but when they arrived they were brushed not polished and didn't match the poling tower.

    So I sent them back and now I'm thinking about the white powder coated ones that Frank puts on the new boats.
    Does anyone have any thoughts on these. I also saw very nice individual anodized ones made by Bluepoint marine fabricators. I like them too.

    2nd question:

    I purchased gas hatch lifts that I have yet to install. These new friction hinges look like a better option for the forward hatches. Any thoughts? I will need to use the gas lifts for my helm seat for sure. But I like the idea of just changing the hinges on the light weight hatches.

    Pete,
    Could you tell me if I'll be able to access all the screws on the forward deck to replace the hinges?
    Or would I need to cut an access port in the anchor locker.

    Oh, and hey, Congratulations to the new Egret family members!
    The more you use these boats and put them through some challenging situations, The more you will love them!



    Thanks and best regards to All.

    Don't change the hinges on your boat. The old ones aren't broken so don't fix them. I don't know anybody with a Florida boat that has bad or broken hinges.

    The new ones may not match up and they will most likely not last 15 years!...Pete
  • Bad behaviorBad behavior Posts: 1,162 Officer
    Not discounting what Pete said because he certainly knows better than me. I love the friction hinges on my 2011. That being said, I've not even had my boat a month yet, reiterating what I said about Pete. He has a lifetime of knowledge on these boats from what I can deduct and his opinion certainly would have more weight than mine. Also, I have the friction hinges on all hatches other than the rod lockers, seat, and live well. I called Frank today and asked him to send me a shock for the front dry storage hatch. I had it open this weekend and was bent over getting some things put of a tackle tray. A 10mph or so wind slammed it back down, smacking me on the noggin. That hatch lid is a little too heavy for the hinges but for the rest, they're awesome.
    Need a little time off...For Bad Behavior....

    2014 Egret 2011 /Yamaha 250 SHO - sold
    2019 Pathfinder 2500 hybrid 350 Verado
  • cairotroutcairotrout Georgia Posts: 159 Deckhand
    Here is how the white powder coat looks
  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    I've heard really, really good things about the hinges too. Captain John Skidmore took me on a sea trial when I was considering buying and the friction hinges were something he raved about, even though he didn't have them on his boat. I do agree with Pete, they may not match up, but ask Frank, if they are compatible, they might be a nice upgrade. Worth looking into at least.
  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    cairotrout wrote: »
    Here is how the white powder coat looks

    Cairotrout your boat is sweet. making me rethink the ice blue!! Nice rig my man.
  • seavee05seavee05 Posts: 42 Greenhorn
    Don't change the hinges on your boat. The old ones aren't broken so don't fix them. I don't know anybody with a Florida boat that has bad or broken hinges.

    The new ones may not match up and they will most likely not last 15 years!...Pete

    Well, it's either that or I'll go ahead with the hatch lifts. I do love the simplicity of the hatches as they are but,
    trying to get things out of the hatches one handed is getting kinda old.
    5l8lqw.jpg
  • polepositionpoleposition Posts: 1,053 Officer
    Just know that the powder coated rod holders will corrode and the coating flake off over time. It would appear that stainless fasteners are used and the holders aluminum (I assume). You all know the rest. If I had it to do again, I would go with polished holders even though they are special order.
  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    Just know that the powder coated rod holders will corrode and the coating flake off over time. It would appear that stainless fasteners are used and the holders aluminum (I assume). You all know the rest. If I had it to do again, I would go with polished holders even though they are special order.

    Anyone have any pics of the polished ones?
  • rbtbryanrbtbryan Posts: 99 Deckhand
    I made these holders up out of aluminum anodized tubing, and they are not hard to make if you are at all handy. Not near the boat, out of town, but I believe it was 2.25" 5/32 wall, with the PVC inserts adhered inside with 5200. Angled for reel separation, and supported inside the console with additional aluminum backing plate for rigidity.
    Anyone have any pics of the polished ones?
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    seavee05 wrote: »
    Well, it's either that or I'll go ahead with the hatch lifts. I do love the simplicity of the hatches as they are but,
    trying to get things out of the hatches one handed is getting kinda old.

    The hatches on your boat are like the ones on my boat. They open all the way to lay flat on the deck. You can install a spring, a cord or a gas shock. they will all work. I don't care for the gas shock because it's always pushing and limits the amount of travel on the hatch as do the spring and cord. I can't stick anything large in the hole because the hatch is in the way. If you ever go camping on your boat you'll understand what I mean.

    If I need two hands, I sit on the hatch that I'm not going to use, open the other one all the way. Do whatever I need to do and close it. The new boats only have one hatch. I don't think Egret uses the layflat hinges anymore, so the hatch only goes so far. That's why the guys are using the gas shocks or click sticks.

    Tight Lines... Pete
  • kerleekerlee Posts: 66 Greenhorn
    rbtbryan is that a yeti 50 in the picture with the rod holders?
  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    rbtbryan wrote: »
    I made these holders up out of aluminum anodized tubing, and they are not hard to make if you are at all handy. Not near the boat, out of town, but I believe it was 2.25" 5/32 wall, with the PVC inserts adhered inside with 5200. Angled for reel separation, and supported inside the console with additional aluminum backing plate for rigidity.

    Wow that is a sharp boat! I have the same question what size yeti? How is the backrest? How do you like the wrap on the steering and grab rails?
  • seavee05seavee05 Posts: 42 Greenhorn
    rbtbryan wrote: »
    I made these holders up out of aluminum anodized tubing, and they are not hard to make if you are at all handy. Not near the boat, out of town, but I believe it was 2.25" 5/32 wall, with the PVC inserts adhered inside with 5200. Angled for reel separation, and supported inside the console with additional aluminum backing plate for rigidity.

    Hi Bryan,

    Nice to hear from you again. Your console looks very nice. The rope work is stella. I actually have thought of exactly what you've done with the existing rod rack, and I like it. I may do the same. Do you have a source for the materials?

    Pete,

    You always have a well thought out answer and you back it up too. You gave me an idea, I think I'll try a piece of heavy mono, ya know like 200lb or coated SS cable with crimped loops and a couple of pad eyes to allow it open like 120°. Then I could add a snap swivel for opening it 180° flat.

    Brgrds,
    Dan
    5l8lqw.jpg
  • seavee05seavee05 Posts: 42 Greenhorn
    Wow that is a sharp boat! I have the same question what size yeti? How is the backrest? How do you like the wrap on the steering and grab rails?

    I believe that is the same Yeti I have. It's a 60 quart made of fiberglass, it's been discontinued, but it does fit the Egret perfect.
    5l8lqw.jpg
  • Renagade69Renagade69 Posts: 1,234 Officer
    That is a fiberglass Yeti 60 quart. I have one in new condition with a pearl grey Egret Pad on it if someone is interested.The glass Yeti is the best looking one and not available anymore. They started making them cheaply out of plastic and charge the same.
    Hells Bay Estero Bay Boat and Hells Bay Marquesas
  • Saltwater JunkieSaltwater Junkie Posts: 1,086 Officer
    Renagade69 wrote: »
    That is a fiberglass Yeti 60 quart. I have one in new condition with a pearl grey Egret Pad on it if someone is interested.The glass Yeti is the best looking one and not available anymore. They started making them cheaply out of plastic and charge the same.

    This is what I have for a cooler:

    http://www.boatpartheadquarters.com/EvaKool-Fiberglass-Ice-Box-63-5-Quart-E060-p/e060.htm?gclid=COHXkLPq2b8CFZJr7AodJkIATg
  • Renagade69Renagade69 Posts: 1,234 Officer
    Pete. Great cooler!! I like a glass cooler in a custom boat. I can not understand why anyone will pay a huge amount of money for the best boat and stick a plastic cooler in it. The roto molded coolers always get black stains in them that do not remove.
    Hells Bay Estero Bay Boat and Hells Bay Marquesas
  • silverdreamssilverdreams Posts: 234 Deckhand
    Or this EvaKool......it's similar shape to the fiberglass Yeti. They are distributed from Jupiter and for those in S. Florida, you can stop in and they often have demo's, etc. if you want to save a buck.

    http://www.evakool.com/products?sprod=32
  • rbtbryanrbtbryan Posts: 99 Deckhand
    The Yeti is a 60 quart fiberglass, discontinued for some time. Easier to keep clean, fits the boat perfectly height and width wise, and has a finer finish that more easily matches the boat.Had the cushion and backrest made for me.
    I didn't like the stock backrest, which, by the way, does not work well anyway on the older hulls as the bulkhead deck area between the locker and the live wells is too narrow. But I don't like the rigid posts anyway. I had the aluminum flatbar made for me at Bluepoint, which gives me a spring loaded backrest, which gives slightly when in a chop. Much more comfortable.
    The cox-coaming and turks head work on the wheel and grab rails I did myself, and although time consuming, is quite easy. I made a jig for the wheel, which allowed me to take the wheel off and stick it in the vise on the jig. Very comfortable on cold mornings in the winter.
    If anyone in Florida would like to use the jig, you're more than welcome to use it. Saves a great deal of time, and makes the knotting that much tighter and neater.
    Wow that is a sharp boat! I have the same question what size yeti? How is the backrest? How do you like the wrap on the steering and grab rails?
  • rbtbryanrbtbryan Posts: 99 Deckhand
    With my background in weld engineering and Lean Manufacturing, I'm in and out of all kinds of manufacturers every week. So I'm able to get my hands on materials like this. I thought about titanium, but too over the top, and anyway, doesn't match the rest of the aluminum tubing. LOL
    These materials came out of Quality T Tops in Tarpon Springs, but there are lots of tuna tower manufacturers that have end cuts that will work perfectly for the rod holders.
    seavee05 wrote: »
    Hi Bryan,

    Nice to hear from you again. Your console looks very nice. The rope work is stella. I actually have thought of exactly what you've done with the existing rod rack, and I like it. I may do the same. Do you have a source for the materials?

    Pete,

    You always have a well thought out answer and you back it up too. You gave me an idea, I think I'll try a piece of heavy mono, ya know like 200lb or coated SS cable with crimped loops and a couple of pad eyes to allow it open like 120°. Then I could add a snap swivel for opening it 180° flat.

    Brgrds,
    Dan
  • HeartNShoalHeartNShoal Posts: 937 Officer
    rbtbryan wrote: »
    The Yeti is a 60 quart fiberglass, discontinued for some time. Easier to keep clean, fits the boat perfectly height and width wise, and has a finer finish that more easily matches the boat.Had the cushion and backrest made for me.
    I didn't like the stock backrest, which, by the way, does not work well anyway on the older hulls as the bulkhead deck area between the locker and the live wells is too narrow. But I don't like the rigid posts anyway. I had the aluminum flatbar made for me at Bluepoint, which gives me a spring loaded backrest, which gives slightly when in a chop. Much more comfortable.
    The cox-coaming and turks head work on the wheel and grab rails I did myself, and although time consuming, is quite easy. I made a jig for the wheel, which allowed me to take the wheel off and stick it in the vise on the jig. Very comfortable on cold mornings in the winter.
    If anyone in Florida would like to use the jig, you're more than welcome to use it. Saves a great deal of time, and makes the knotting that much tighter and neater.

    Very nice cooler. The first Egret I went on with Captain Blake Matherly in Ft. Myers had a Frigid Rigid on it and I like the fiberglass look.

    Are they a little heavier though? I want to be able to move my cooler up as a casting platform.
  • rbtbryanrbtbryan Posts: 99 Deckhand
    Not sure of the weight difference between the root molded and the glass. I've never considered it a heavy cooler though!
    Very nice cooler. The first Egret I went on with Captain Blake Matherly in Ft. Myers had a Frigid Rigid on it and I like the fiberglass look.

    Are they a little heavier though? I want to be able to move my cooler up as a casting platform.
  • 91tiger91tiger Posts: 555 Officer
    I've had both the frigid rigid fiberglass and a 65 quart yeti. The Yeti seems a good bit heavier but the frigid rigid was a little smaller but it did have a folding seat on top of the fiberglass cooler. The thing I hated about the fiberglass cooler is it slid around all over the cockpit. Even turnbuckled down it seemed to move more than it should. I never bother securing my Yeti, it doesn't move. I wouldn't recommend standing on a fiberglass cooler a lot either.
  • Bad behaviorBad behavior Posts: 1,162 Officer
    As I was sitting here reading This up until your post, I was contemplating on ordering a glass cooler. You've got a good point. Not sure about how good the lid will last on a glass cooler with 270lbs standing on top all the time.
    Need a little time off...For Bad Behavior....

    2014 Egret 2011 /Yamaha 250 SHO - sold
    2019 Pathfinder 2500 hybrid 350 Verado
  • Renagade69Renagade69 Posts: 1,234 Officer
    Its stronger than a plastic one.
    Hells Bay Estero Bay Boat and Hells Bay Marquesas
  • Bad behaviorBad behavior Posts: 1,162 Officer
    I would think so but after a while in the sun, will it delaminate or the top begin to warp? I'm asking because I've not personally handled an all glass cooler and I'm trying to visualize!
    Need a little time off...For Bad Behavior....

    2014 Egret 2011 /Yamaha 250 SHO - sold
    2019 Pathfinder 2500 hybrid 350 Verado
  • Renagade69Renagade69 Posts: 1,234 Officer
    I had a large guy that weighed 300# plus cast from it for a week that owned a Roto-molded Yeti and he could not believe how much more stable it was. Fiberglass is less prone to warping than plastic is. There is a chance if a cooler is not built right one could bubble or de-laminate. When Yeti announced they were not making them any more Frank bought all the glass 60 quart coolers they made. I got the last one Frank had. It still has a lifetime warranty. They just hand you a plastic one. I always dried mine out after use and store it with the plug out. I have seen blisters in glass coolers that are left with water in them over a years time.
    Hells Bay Estero Bay Boat and Hells Bay Marquesas
  • cairotroutcairotrout Georgia Posts: 159 Deckhand
    Yeti will not warranty that cooler any more and doesn't stock parts for it anymore.
  • Bad behaviorBad behavior Posts: 1,162 Officer
    The glass coolers are sweet looking!
    Need a little time off...For Bad Behavior....

    2014 Egret 2011 /Yamaha 250 SHO - sold
    2019 Pathfinder 2500 hybrid 350 Verado
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