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Mercury Flush Port

FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
For all of you Mercury Engine guys running Egrets.Weather your trailer it or keep it on a lift. I found the best solution for using the flush port finally since my lower unit has the low water pick up the ear muffs won't work without buying the $40 attachment.I didn't want to use the ear muffs and start the motor every time i come back from fishing especially at night. The coastal flush port as Mercury calls it is much easier way and does the job better than the ear muffs according to Mercury.This will work on all 150, 175, 250 Pro XS motors. I went and bought a sprinkler **** 3/4 in. and cap installed them with a washer which should already be in the motor under the stock plug. Very easy to remove the cap now the **** stays in place, just make sure you install the **** tight so when you remove the cap it doesn't back out also. I just screw on the female quick disconnect connect turn the water on and flush away no more tools needed to remove that stupid square head cap!

I tried the TH Marine flush port connector but it leaks from there o ring check valve and would hate to see that get stuck open while running especially if the inline check valve doesn't work and passes water. This way the cap seals it off so no water can come out while running either way. Everything was purchased at home depot. I have tested this for several months now and works flawless! It set me back a big $5!

FlushAssembly_zps5c3f983d.jpg
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Replies

  • mbowersmbowers Posts: 496 Deckhand
    How does the flush port clear all the saltwater if the thermostats don't open because the engine isn't hot? Does the engine sense the flush port is in use and open everything up??
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
    So here is you answer from a Engineer at Mercury marine first hand. Please make your own decision on what works best for you. Now since I've been using the flush port since day one. When i go to pull my stats at 100 hours I will see first hand how the flush port has worked. I have used salt away also after every trip in my motor since day one. I will then decide to continue to use it solely or use the ear muffs!

    Using the Flush Port is about 98% efficient but doesn't flush through the thermostats. It's used to BACKFLUSH all the water SUPPLY passages, water tube, water pump, and the coolant DUMP circuits (in the adapter plate).

    Coastal flush port pushes water in two directions- through the DUMP circuit side of the system. Water is washed BACKWARDS through the supply side (water tube, water pump, gearcase inlets), and FORWARDS through the dump side (adapter plate/exhaust). Thermostats aren't open under this use... though the back side of them (head side) may get rinsed.

    So using the flush port back flushes the entire motor also when using the muffs the water only goes in one direction! Yes it does fill the entire Cylinder Heads in front and back of the thermostats but since the motor is not running and up to temperature where they open the water will not pass threw them but will be on either side to clean the areas so if 98% isn't good enough for some then do as you please!
  • FishinMcNutFishinMcNut Posts: 536 Officer
    I'll throw a wild card in the mix: have been using the TH Marine setup since new. I turn on the water and wait until steady stream is coming out of the pee hole before starting motor. I let it run at idle until motor reaches operating temp, thus insuring thermostats have opened. I know it is not recommended, but motor has 357 hours and the discarded impeller looks great for five straight years...
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
    I'll throw a wild card in the mix: have been using the TH Marine setup since new. I turn on the water and wait until steady stream is coming out of the pee hole before starting motor. I let it run at idle until motor reaches operating temp, thus insuring thermostats have opened. I know it is not recommended, but motor has 357 hours and the discarded impeller looks great for five straight years...

    Well i guess if you have started your motor then i say it's all good!
    That's real world data collected over 357 hours and five impeller changes. Works for me along with Mercury's engineers data! :grin

    How did the stats look after your annual maintenance?

    O by the way here were my thermostats after 100 hours on my 175 Pro XS. I did use the flush port also!

    DSCN6907_zps423316bd.jpg
    DSCN6908_zpsf305a759.jpg
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
    Well had the first 100 hour service. The Thermostats looked in great condition and there was no debris in the strainer. So using the flush port proved to be just as good as running the motor on the muff. Also my spark plugs looked great even after the break in for the first factory installed set. They were replaced. I highly recommend Mercury Quickleen & Quickare every time you add fuel for those with Mercury engines. Here is the proof the stuff works! No carbon build up and the plugs were burning right!

    https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/mercury-marine-products/fuel-care/


    plugs250xs100hours_zpsb31e4e08.jpg
  • FishinMcNutFishinMcNut Posts: 536 Officer
    Always being the salmon swimming against the current...I run Yamaha Ring Free in my Opti. It is concentrated Techron (Chevron patent), according to a well placed and respected source.

    Ps. I am convinced thermostats open when run on the port, as confirmed by temp gauge.
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
    Mercury Quickleen is a kerosene based product and contains no alcohol!
    Ring free is a great product also no doubt and contains no alcohol.
    The biggest thing to a great running motor is flushing it well and a little maintenance!
  • fishing_hippofishing_hippo CAPosts: 1 Greenhorn
    FlatsBoy said:
    So here is you answer from a Engineer at Mercury marine first hand. Please make your own decision on what works best for you. Now since I've been using the flush port since day one. When i go to pull my stats at 100 hours I will see first hand how the flush port has worked. I have used salt away also after every trip in my motor since day one. I will then decide to continue to use it solely or use the ear muffs!

    Using the Flush Port is about 98% efficient but doesn't flush through the thermostats. It's used to BACKFLUSH all the water SUPPLY passages, water tube, water pump, and the coolant DUMP circuits (in the adapter plate).

    Coastal flush port pushes water in two directions- through the DUMP circuit side of the system. Water is washed BACKWARDS through the supply side (water tube, water pump, gearcase inlets), and FORWARDS through the dump side (adapter plate/exhaust). Thermostats aren't open under this use... though the back side of them (head side) may get rinsed.

    So using the flush port back flushes the entire motor also when using the muffs the water only goes in one direction! Yes it does fill the entire Cylinder Heads in front and back of the thermostats but since the motor is not running and up to temperature where they open the water will not pass threw them but will be on either side to clean the areas so if 98% isn't good enough for some then do as you please!

    Do you get water coming out of the tail tell? My new 150hp has no water coming out of the pee hole when flushed through the flush port.  (no ear muff, engine off).
  • FlatsBoyFlatsBoy Posts: 1,386 Officer
    edited April 2019 #10
    I always had water coming out the pee hole on all the motors! Lol
    You have have a clogged inline strainer. It's the line going up to the compressor and towards the bottom of the side pans in the block. You need to remove and clean then back flush the moor with the hose to the flush port to clear then reinstall everything.

    The below link should help
    https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/319489-how-thread-w-pics-cleaning-your-optimax-compressor-cooling-water-strainer.html

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