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What have you been tying (pt. 2)

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  • backwatertechbackwatertech Posts: 21 Greenhorn
    Snookslayer772, what are the materials for the last fly you posted and technique you used on the head. Very nice flies!
  • backwatertechbackwatertech Posts: 21 Greenhorn
    Some recent ties

    The last fly in these images. Thought it would help if i quoted it.
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
    Having fun with some smallmouth flies.
  • Snookslayer772Snookslayer772 Posts: 170 Officer
    Thanks backwatertech! It's just Ep Minnow Head brush palmered and trimmed up.
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
  • BendMenderBendMender Posts: 36 Deckhand
    For Quebec.

    Hey ODC - What eyes are those on you're all-white mullet looking fly? They look like EP doll eys, but only better. What glue do you use for those?

    Thanks!
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
    BendMender wrote: »
    Hey ODC - What eyes are those on you're all-white mullet looking fly? They look like EP doll eys, but only better. What glue do you use for those?

    Thanks!


    They're actually identical to the ones Enrico sells, but less than half what he charges. I think these are distributed by wapsi, I break the stems off and use zap goo/amazing goop to tack them down. I use a very light bead of liquid fusion around the front if I think they'll be taking big hits (more concerned about docks and sea walls than fish).
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,967 Captain
    In most catalogues they're listed as hard plastic doll eyes. You can find them much cheaper (by the hundred or the thousand in any craft shop -or on E-Bay)... You'll find they're sold by diameter in millimeter sizes. As noted by ODC, clip off
    the stem and you're ready to glue them in place....
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • BuzflyBuzfly Posts: 23 Greenhorn
    Decided to go back to some old school Popovics flies. This is one of my favorite shrimp patterns. The Jig Hook version is the one I like when I am fishing from the beach and in the back bays.
  • BendMenderBendMender Posts: 36 Deckhand
    ODC & Mr. Lemay - Good stuff. Thanks!
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
    Buzfly wrote: »
    Decided to go back to some old school Popovics flies. This is one of my favorite shrimp patterns. The Jig Hook version is the one I like when I am fishing from the beach and in the back bays.


    Very cool. I always hated that pattern because they never track straight, it would appear that you solved that problem.
  • BuzflyBuzfly Posts: 23 Greenhorn
    Flounder_3Up_zpsxarbypni.jpg
    Very simple flounder tied on a Jig Hook with some led wrapped around the shank to help get it down. This was tied with Baitfish Emulator. It is based on Steve Farrars Flounder fly.
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
  • dogman58dogman58 Hobe sound flPosts: 31 Deckhand
    what is the body material
    dk
  • Limp ShrimpLimp Shrimp Posts: 14 Greenhorn
    ODC,, how was the trip.... Did your pike flies make it through the grass?
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
    dogman58 wrote: »
    what is the body material
    dk

    Seal fur & a couple strands of chopped Angel hair.
    ODC,, how was the trip.... Did your pike flies make it through the grass?

    Did pretty good, but the majority of the fish were in open water. Totally different from what I'm seeing in the fall.
  • jakejake Posts: 326 Deckhand
    This is the first fly i could even remotely imagine sharing with y'all. I stopped at Bill Jackson's today and got some EP fibers to play with: Here's my first try at a baitfish.

    poX0vRp.jpg

    Those synthetics go a lot farther than bucktail so i tied some more a little sparser.

    Any tips with EP Fiber is appreciated!!
  • Ol'DirtyCasterOl'DirtyCaster Posts: 2,401 Captain
    When working with EP, you can tie it in thick or sparse as long as you trim it accordingly. That fly will fish better if you trim it up a little more around the head. Next time you go fishing, bring a brush and some scissors and you can tune it up until it tracks right. Do that a few times and you'll have a better idea of how you'll want to trim those before filling a fly box.
  • jakejake Posts: 326 Deckhand
    good call. I stuck that on a few feet of mono and tried it in my lake, just fake stripping to get an idea of the action. It stayed straight up and down, but i couldn't believe how nose-heavy it was. It moved like a clouser! Definitely going to give it a haircut. Thanks for the tips.

    I see people brush the EP fibers - what is the goal there? changing the way the fibers lie around the hook?

    Edit: by the way i wanted to share where i learned this fly:
    https://vimeo.com/67536962 good quality film with no nonsense. Some people tying flies on YouTube tell their whole life story.
  • DitchratDitchrat Posts: 56 Greenhorn
    Buzfly wrote: »
    Flounder_3Up_zpsxarbypni.jpg
    Very simple flounder tied on a Jig Hook with some led wrapped around the shank to help get it down. This was tied with Baitfish Emulator. It is based on Steve Farrars Flounder fly.

    You might want to skip the lead wrap and use tungsten putty on the bottom, with a little epoxy to secure it. It makes a big difference on how it presents.
  • BuzflyBuzfly Posts: 23 Greenhorn
    Ditchrat - Tungsten works well. Steve and I have talked about it. Tungsten is now very expensive and harder to get unless you search the internet. Loon distributes it but for way to much money. The golf store sell it and so do dog training houses. About 10-12 years ago, our local fly shop started to sell the Tungsten powder. We all liked it but never had any great practical applications for it. Fast forward about 8-10 years when he was tying it he opened up his draw and found the bottle of it and decided to use it as the weight. The lead works fine and if you build up some light cured acrylic on the front third of the belly you will have plenty of weight to get down. Also, you can mix it into your light cured acrylic and then set it with a high powered light.
  • DitchratDitchrat Posts: 56 Greenhorn
    Buzfly wrote: »
    Ditchrat - Tungsten works well. Steve and I have talked about it. Tungsten is now very expensive and harder to get unless you search the internet. Loon distributes it but for way to much money. The golf store sell it and so do dog training houses. About 10-12 years ago, our local fly shop started to sell the Tungsten powder. We all liked it but never had any great practical applications for it. Fast forward about 8-10 years when he was tying it he opened up his draw and found the bottle of it and decided to use it as the weight. The lead works fine and if you build up some light cured acrylic on the front third of the belly you will have plenty of weight to get down. Also, you can mix it into your light cured acrylic and then set it with a high powered light.

    Im sorry, and I don't mean to be argumentative, but how exactly is $3.25 an oz expensive when we pay $80.00 for a fly line?
  • BuzflyBuzfly Posts: 23 Greenhorn
    Ditchrat wrote: »
    Im sorry, and I don't mean to be argumentative, but how exactly is $3.25 an oz expensive when we pay $80.00 for a fly line?
    Steve only used Powder mixed in to Epoxy and not putty. I have never liked putty much because I could get a better result with mixing it into something because you can control where it went/flowed. The putties I have used in the past would not set up as nice as the power does mixed into liquid like epoxy, uv resin or something like Liquid Fusion. They also did not bond as well. If putty works for your then go for it.
    Brad
  • jakejake Posts: 326 Deckhand
    Ditchrat wrote: »
    Im sorry, and I don't mean to be argumentative, but how exactly is $3.25 an oz expensive when we pay $80.00 for a fly line?

    I hate putting money into lures and flies because they have the chance to get lost very easily. if i lose a fly line I'm probably going to have a bad *** story
  • lemaymiamilemaymiami Posts: 3,967 Captain
    Here's an alternate method of adding weight to a fly (and it comes with the benefit of having it function as a keel (depending which side you tie onto). I long ago learned that you could buy square lead wire for tying and came to prefer .040 diameter (this is an item that few shops or suppliers even carry or know about....). Take a pair of small nippers and cut 1/2" lengths (or 1/4" lengths) on the diagonal so that the lead tapers underneath your thread. Lay them in one at a time (I've used as many as three, stacked one on top of the other - but mostly a single 1/2" of lead wire does just fine for my purposes...). Before you tie in any other materials you lay in that piece of wire and cover it with thread so that it won't bleed into any body that you tie over it. Done properly you'd had to look close to see any difference at all until you actually use the fly.... Here's a pic of the Big Eye Bendback in three colors - only one has the leaded keel and you'd be hard pressed to tell which one just by looking at them.... For a production tyer (commercial tyer) the added benefit is how quickly you can add an additional component without needing to use any epoxy or other adhesive to keep the weight where you want it.... Hope this helps, for anyone interested the last place I was able to get square lead wire by the spool was Cascade Crest....
    BigEyeBendbacks-threebasiccolors_zpsfce19ff3.jpg

    The one with the leaded keel is the middle one.....
    [img][/img][img][/img]
    Tight Lines
    Bob LeMay
    (954) 435-5666
  • JoeBCJoeBC Posts: 608 Officer
    New bonefish fly, passed field tests this weekend.
  • jakejake Posts: 326 Deckhand
    trying to get the basics down of each "staple" pattern, bought some craft store foam to try my hand at some gurglers.

    nobbLAo.jpg

    TKaEWIS.jpg

    5qaI8qn.jpg

    the purple one is deer hair the other two are EP fiber. Chenille for the body. still playing with the "lip"

    out of all of them, the purple is i think the best... i hope to stick it in a redfish in the near future

    please critique!
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