Had two of my recessed lights out. They had those evil incandescent 120W flood lights in them. Well in an effort to get a Sunday hall pass, I replaced a garbage disposal, fixed a shower and replaced those bulbs. Figured I could get everything I needed at a big box store. Much to my amazement, they DO NOT STOCK 120W indoor flood lights.
So, I paid $45 for three bulbs that light the room like pure hell. So ******* irritating. Of course these LEDs will last longer, which is great! The traditional bulbs had only been in place since I finished the house in April of 2008.
Terrible feel to them. Just terrible. I had actually kind of gotten over it until watching the news just now and learning that the 40W and 60W will join the phase out schedule on January 1.
It sure was nice to have a choice and a home that didn't feel like a freakin' hospital.
"Whatcha doin' in my waters?"
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At least she has delayed the govt oppression for years for us.
"Today is MINE"
Whatever, the lights aren't the end of the world, but it sure is annoying and more importantly, I'm just so sick and tired of constantly learning that I have less and less choice.
Hahahaha.... yeah, that's it.
I like it a lot, and use programmable dimmers to have complete control for any lighting need.
My kind of woman. I stocked up on enough that I can probably leave a few to my kids.
Original member number 3640 - September 2001.
NRA Endowment Member
you are doing it wrong
set the bar lower
Your green light is blinking.
I installed a new ceiling fan in the bedroom a few months ago, and the light kit came with compact fluorescent bulbs. The fan is hooked to a previously installed dimmer switch, which I have told the wife to always leave in 100% power as we control the fan and fan light from a remote control hooked to the fan. The bulbs, when turned off, will still have a slight flicker which is noticeable when the room is dark. Is there a special dimmer switch made for these bulbs to prevent this?
from who?
Here's something I just read on the Popular Mechanics website:
"The complex circuitry in these new bulbs makes them difficult to dim. In many cases, a typical dimmer switch (now called a legacy dimmer in the electrical industry) won't work properly, if at all, with CFL or LED bulbs.
Legacy dimmers were designed to work with incandescents, and CFL and LED bulbs bear no electrical resemblance to these types of bulbs. Comparing them is like equating an electric heating element and a television set. Both use electricity and both give off light, but that's where the similarity ends.
The solution is to buy a dimmer switch rated for both CFL and LED bulbs. Two reputable manufacturers of CFL/LED dimmers are Leviton and Lutron; both provide lists of bulbs they've verified will work with their dimmers. Next, buy dimmable CFL and LED bulbs that you know will function with your switch. Though these bulbs may also work with the older legacy dimmers, it's likely you'll experience some of the problems you mentioned. It's worth noting that in 2011 the National Electrical Code was changed specifically to require a neutral wire at all switch locations. But don't worry—you can install most new switches in an older house so long as you carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions. If you have any questions about whether a specific switch is compatible with your wiring or a specific bulb or light fixture, contact the manufacturer's technical service department. "
I'm headed to HD this afternoon to buy some new Cree bulbs for the kitchen ceiling. I wonder if I should also get new dimmers.
I don't have any LED bulbs other then the lighting over my reef tank and my outdoor low voltage landscape lights. Cree makes very good LED's though.
Im banned from PMs web site, I think for six more months
Makes me want to spend more time at PM. :grin
Since your first post, I have done a little research and it appears they do indeed need a special dimmer to work properly. Something I would not have thought about.
You have to buy dimmable bulbs too on the cfl's I don't know about the led's. :shrug
--Abraham Lincoln
I read the LCD's might not work at all, or at best, not properly with the regular dimming fixtures we current use.
In general, LED bulbs that are not specifically designed to dim should not be
connected to a dimmer. Even the bulbs that are designed to dim aren’t always
compatible with every dimmer. Through extensive testing, the engineers at
Environmental Lights have developed a compatibility chart that can help you select
the best dimmer for your bulb.
My small kitchen has the 40 watt T12 Fluorescents where the old ballast was going bad to where it was dimmed out to where you could barely see with out the other indirect lights. Long short went to HD decided to replace the ballast with the new electronic one for $14 and **** the bright. Haven't found any 30 watt but a 40 watt cool which help but it's still like an operating room.
Seen someone loading up on 40 and 60 watt incandescents in which I proceeded to do the same.
Done.
Sure! Modular cabinets, spec house contractor and lumber liquidators come to mind. My point was simply that I took two years blinding my house, in large part by hand, and the focal point is the kitchen as it makes up roughly half of my downstairs. It was nice to see the cabinets I designed, had built of actual wood, and I hand painted to a **** near spray finish... It was nice to see them and my other hard work in a bright but more natural light.
Then there are some antique fixtures I have that due up size and shape of available bulbs, are going to look awful.
Is this Obama's way of stimulating the economy? Purposely making obsolete all of your old stuff?
They were out of 75 watt bulbs but plenty of 60 watt left.