The best dressed new 31 Cape Horn on the water..... step by step!

BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
I know you all love boat build/mod threads as much as I do, and its been a while since I contributed one, so here goes! This is a brand new 31 Cape Horn rigged with twin 300's, and I'll give you all the details soon! The owner wanted to deck her out with the very best, so I'm going to show you the process with tips along the way for you do-it-yourselfers. She's getting an incredible Garmin package, consisting of two 5212's, radio, autopilot, XM weather, sonar, radar, gps, and a 1000w Airmar tilted element transducer. She's also getting a Clarion waterproof DVD player to watch on the large screens, complete with the latest amp/speaker offerings from JL Audio so it sounds like real thunder while watching movies and jamming on the way to the gulf stream. She's also getting an under gunnel LED package to light up the night, a deep cycle battery complete with an automatic charging relay system, and a three bank charger. And a tracking/alarm system, though obviously I wont share too many details about that part. I'm probably skipping something, but you get the point.
We'll start from the bottom up with the transducer install. Here she is up on the hill, getting her bottom painted. This is a view before cutting. The cockpit had a perfect place for install, just ahead of the water pick-ups to avoid turbulance.
P8160616.jpg

And a view from the inside of the reserved spot-
P8160619.jpg

Heres a look after I've cut the hole with a standard hole saw, routing the cable into the boat.
P8160620.jpg

I should have taken more pics of the entire process, but here it is in the hull from the top, after tightening down and smoothing the 5200, and cleaning up the excess. 5200 is actuall pretty forgiving to work with, and cures slow so clean up is easy making this the result every time.
P8160621.jpg

Have some acetone handy! But do not touch the face of the ducer with your acetone rag, its bad for it. Use a good old fashioned water wet caulking finger, and you should come up with this-
P8160623.jpg

Here is a view from the front looking back, so you can see how flush this transducer really is. It should read all the way to top speed in this position.
P8160625.jpg

Tomorrow I'll dive into the boat, and show you some tips along the way through the wiring process, stay tuned! Hopefully I will have the time to post up my progress in daily increments, hope you enjoy!
Tony Eden-
Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
Boattronics.net
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Replies

  • EricLEricL Posts: 322 Officer
    Mine points strait down with a fairing block between the hull and ducer. Won't this give him a reading off to 1 side of the boat?
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    Thats the beauty of an Airmar tilted element transducer..... the element is tilted inside the transducer housing to match the hull angle. It shoots perfectly straight down, and is nearly perfectly flush with the bottom, which creates nearly zero drag, no turbulance for high speed readings, and no worries of getting hit by the boat trailer or lift. It's the best availible transducer option in every way!
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • EricLEricL Posts: 322 Officer
    gotcha
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    Interesting to see if that keeps bottom over the 30knotts airmar says it will keep bottom at. Seems to me the best option is a recessed transducer pocket. Mine doesn't stick down at all and is directly in the keel. Mine thru hull is only 600 watts but holds bottom to about 6-800' while running. My humminbird will hold bottom in up to about 3000' but it's a transom mount so won't do it at high speed.
    When I redo the electronics I might use a splitter and put that 1kw tilted airmar for the down on the humminbird and take out the furuno. Garmin says the 1Kw tilted only takes them 1800' though. :(
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    They usually do hold faster than 30knts! I love the recessed deal, we've been paid some good money to do those in the past. We did one 2000w thru-hull recess, it will never loose the bottom under any conditions, any depth and this Everglades has been all over the Bahamas. We would build plugs so they would be removable if wanted..... but the tited element is phasing that out now. I'll definately post some seatrial video, maybe we'll get to test it out deep too, if so I'll post up our findings.
    Gotta make this as quick as possible tonight, but I got some tips for you all!
    Today I started out my morning tackling the t-top rigging. This Cape Horn has a really thought out fiberglass top, with pipes and hollow spots for rigging. It was my chance to do some slick stuff and I'll show ya how......
    Shot of the top facing aft-
    P8240638.jpg

    Looking into the upper box, you can see one of the rigging tubes that runs down the center-
    P8240640.jpg

    I was kinda bummed looking into the down pipes when I found no pull ropes, (whats up with that Horn?)
    P8240645.jpg

    So instead of wasting time fishing a pull, I quickly disconnected the most convienant wire from the switch it was on down below in the helm. There was plenty of wire so that I could just put on new connectors.
    Then, I tapped up two pull ropes, one for me to use, and one to leave in the pipe for the future.
    P8240646.jpg

    Now that I had a pull, it was time to begin rigging all my cables. Here you can see how I put two plugs in line to make them as streamlined as possible.
    P8240648.jpg

    Now all taped up ready to slide down the pipe, sometimes you need to add a little soap.
    P8240649.jpg

    Think angles, and don't try to make wires do sharp bends by pulling hard. Push a bit into the pipe, pull a bit at the other end. Depending on how much care the t-top fabricator took to open and smooth out the joints as much as possible, the easier your life will be. This one was good, and soon I had all my cables pulled through the top. Here is a shot of the radar cables.-
    P8240650.jpg

    The vhf antenna, a shakespear 5225-xt which has been proved the best in class, started out like this-
    P8240651.jpg

    I pulled the wire out through the bottom instead, and filled with white silicone for a clean look, more pics of that install soon.-
    P8240652.jpg

    I had drilled from the top down right into the rigging tube, so I could litterally make the cables dissapear. In this next pic, you can see how I arranged the silicone to make a perfect seal when I laid down the radar. I arranged the service loop to fit into the recess of the dome, so when I laid it down there would not be a sharp bend in the cables which could eventually cause fatigue.
    P8240653.jpg

    The small dome was the only thing I suggested an upgrade for, but I like to chase birds for mahi and such..... the owner only wanted it for close range target detection at night or fog. He got the XM system to watch the weather. The next shots show how the cables are completely hidden from site from both the top and the underside, you can not see the cables at all.-
    P8240656.jpg

    P8240654.jpg
    Completely rigged, no cables! This top design is sweet.

    I'll be back soon, to show the finished helm and post rotozip video, and the slick new way I installed the xm and gps ant's for the ultimate clean look, and then we'll move on to wiring tips, stereo tips, etc. Hope you are enjoying!
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
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  • SEARUNNERSEARUNNER Posts: 285 Deckhand
    That's a work of art right there buddy! I now know who I will recommend if I ever hear of anybody needing an electronics install or wiring clean-up!
  • schmaltz~herringschmaltz~herring Posts: 206 Officer
    Very Nice! The thru hulls should be double clamped.
  • DunkDunk Posts: 107 Officer
    Boattronics,

    You cut a hole thur the bottom of a Cape Horn... A cored hull boat. You installed a thru hull... When you do that you should dig the foam/balsa coring back 3-4" from around the hole. Then clean the inner hull surfaces by either sanding or at least washing well with acetone. After that you fill the void around the hole with an EPOXY putty. Then you mount the TD with 5200. Failure to do this will let water soak into the hull coring.


    This is as I see it a complete screw up done by someone who has no experience with cored fiberglass.
    Marine Surveyor
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    SEARUNNER wrote: »
    That's a work of art right there buddy! I now know who I will recommend if I ever hear of anybody needing an electronics install or wiring clean-up!

    Thank you very much for the kind words!
    Very Nice! The thru hulls should be double clamped.

    Good eye! I agree, I'll inform the owner we should adress his other thru-hulls. Maybe there is some good reason for this? Or maybe they just got in a hurry at the factory?
    Dunk wrote: »
    Boattronics,

    You cut a hole thur the bottom of a Cape Horn... A cored hull boat. You installed a thru hull... When you do that you should dig the foam/balsa coring back 3-4" from around the hole. Then clean the inner hull surfaces by either sanding or at least washing well with acetone. After that you fill the void around the hole with an EPOXY putty. Then you mount the TD with 5200. Failure to do this will let water soak into the hull coring.


    This is as I see it a complete screw up done by someone who has no experience with cored fiberglass.

    Dunk, I know you've been helpfull around here in the past, and that's great, but it does'nt give you the right to make offensive comments when you have no clue what the hell you are talking about. Perhaps you should do a little more research before you act as though you know everything.(Taken directly from the Cape Horn website)-

    "The hull bottom can be over an inch thick of solid laminate on some models."

    Do you think this is my first rodeo? While you may be my senior, nearly every day of my last 15 years has been spent installing marine electronics. I assure you, I am very familair and aware of cored hulls and the proper processes involved. While others have cut holes and filled in around ducers with resin, we were installing custom built plugs that flush mount the ducer on the bottom, while leaving it removable incase something where to ever happen. There are some pics on my website, including some installs with cored hulls if you take a minute and check it out. Some links are under construction, as my site is being overhauled at the moment, but soon I will have referance of every transducer install type you can imagine on my site.

    If you would like I will send you the plug of solid fiberglass at your exspense.
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • DunkDunk Posts: 107 Officer
    A cored hull is a cored hull. you posted the third pic in this thread. and I know how Cape Horns are built.. That's a foam coring material we are all looking at.... Then you did not mount the thru hull correctly for cored hull boat.. End this now, pull that guys boat and do it right... If you don't know how to do it right...I'd find out real quick..

    With your monster signature at the bottom of every post you make... that's why I asked if Fl Sp was taking money to advertise.
    Marine Surveyor
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    I figured as much.....why the attack? It was solid fiberglass, and it was completely sealed with marine tex and 5200. Why are you being a jerk?
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • DunkDunk Posts: 107 Officer
    A jerk that has to deal boats years from now that people made major mistakes with and turned them in to junk. A guy that deals with buyer who think they found the boat of their dreams until I tell them half the foam coring in them is wet because something was done wrong 10 yrs before.

    Trust me, you are not singled out. I'll go after anyone I see doing or saying something wrong when it comes to boats. Too many on here respect what I say because I care about both new and old boaters.. Before this new format I had over 14,000 posts on this board in 9-10yrs on here. Normally when I see something wrong I just state the right way without mentioning the poster, but there was no other way in this case because you started the thread with pictures.
    Marine Surveyor
  • PopeyePopeye Posts: 14,296 Officer
    I figured as much.....why the attack? It was solid fiberglass, and it was completely sealed with marine tex and 5200. Why are you being a jerk?
    Tony, GREAT work. Dont worry bout the haters. You do great work! We know your not endorsed by FS. Ill have ya do my upgrade, anytime. PM, please.
    When I was younger, I could remember anything...

    whether it had happened or not.

    Mark Twain
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    But you are wrong. The hull was a solid as a rock, but regardless, it was surely sealed when I coated all the edges and smoothed out with marine tex and some sanding, followed by being completely filled from the top and bottom and sides with 5200. The third pic you see is me doing a dry fit to see where I needed to fair the edges. What you dont see, is several steps in between that I didn't have time to photo, where I insured that the surface was perfectly level and faired out. I covered a few chips that happened with the hole saw as well, so it would look perfect on completion.

    Call the factory if you like. That boat, in that location, is solid glass. But all surface areas were sealed anyway, to insure a pefect install. I have no more time to argue with a person who was not there and wants to be MR. Know-it-all. I'm here to help, and I'm going to show some new ideas and tips to help others, sorry if you don't like my signature.
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    Popeye wrote: »
    Tony, GREAT work. Dont worry bout the haters. You do great work! We know your not endorsed by FS. Ill have ya do my upgrade, anytime. PM, please.

    Thank you very much! In every boat build or boat mod thread, there is always someone who doesn't like something, thinks they can do it better, it shoulda been done differently, or whatever. A hater in every crowd. For whatever reason, Dunk is really sweet on me now and I can't help that.

    From here forward, I will continue the thread being as helpfull as possible and ignore negativity. Next up.... rotozip lessons, and some trick install methods.....
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • PopeyePopeye Posts: 14,296 Officer
    Dunk wrote: »
    A jerk that has to deal boats years from now that people made major mistakes with and turned them in to junk. A guy that deals with buyer who think they found the boat of their dreams until I tell them half the foam coring in them is wet because something was done wrong 10 yrs before.

    Trust me, you are not singled out. I'll go after anyone I see doing or saying something wrong when it comes to boats. Too many on here respect what I say because I care about both new and old boaters.. Before this new format I had over 14,000 posts on this board in 9-10yrs on here. Normally when I see something wrong I just state the right way without mentioning the poster, but there was no other way in this case because you started the thread with pictures.
    Dunk, what was yer name?
    When I was younger, I could remember anything...

    whether it had happened or not.

    Mark Twain
  • OReelyOReely Posts: 38 Deckhand
    Dunk,

    For all your self anointed genius, you obviously need glasses. That picture clearly shows a solid glass laminate. Perhaps you should just suggest fixing what you think you see as wrong instead of attacking the OP. I've read many of your posts, sometimes I agree, sometimes I don't. "Your way" is not absolute. There are often different ways to solve problems. And before you attack my "lack of expertise", know that I have almost thirty years in the business of boat building and repair, from low tech to high tech and everything in between.


    Boattronics,

    You don't get off the hook that easy either. :icon10

    It looks like you removed the bottom paint in way of the T/D but you didn't mention it so I thought I'd throw that in. Also, in the picture with the wires coming out of the hole where the top is mounted, I would chamfer the edges of the hole to help prevent chafing of the wire.

    My big tip of the day: If you use mineral spirits instead of acetone to clean up 5200, your life will be much easier. And the mineral spirits won't hurt the T/D potting material.
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    Thank you for the constructive critisism! This is how I wish more folks could be, we dont have to agree with everything, there is no need for personal attacks and foul language.

    I wish I would have taken more pics of every step of the ducer install, but I didnt. You should always have a good clean paint and oil free surface to bond to, which I did with a bit of sanding and a thourough acetone scrubbing.
    The wires in the top were secured in place by filling the hole with silicone.
    The acetone has always worked great, so I stick with what works. Im carefull not to ever touch plastics, rubber, etc., but thank you for your suggestions! Im always looking for tips and new ways to tweak my game!
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • OReelyOReely Posts: 38 Deckhand
    I try to remain positive at all times but every once in a while...

    The picture I was referring to was in your post #6. The third picture in the series. The one with the wire cable tied to the bolt. I'm not sure if that is in the radio box or the console. Do you fill that with silicone or were you referring to the radar install picture?

    Looking forward to the next post.
  • TheCaptainsTableTheCaptainsTable Posts: 557 Officer
    Tony, generic pledge also works very well for lubing up the wires for a pull through a chase and is easier to use than dish soap
  • fish_stixfish_stix Posts: 1,290 Officer
    He may be referring to electrician's soap which is specifically made for pulling wire.
  • Capt M BrennanCapt M Brennan Posts: 488 Officer
    I've drilled many hulls and from the photos I see looks solid glass to me. Not all cores hulls are cored all the way.
    Captain Mike Brennan
  • F1D2F1D2 Posts: 331 Deckhand
    OReely wrote: »
    I try to remain positive at all times but every once in a while...

    The picture I was referring to was in your post #6. The third picture in the series. The one with the wire cable tied to the bolt. I'm not sure if that is in the radio box or the console. Do you fill that with silicone or were you referring to the radar install picture?

    Looking forward to the next post.

    I don't know Tony but from what I have seen of his work, the wire is being temporarily held in place during the install.

    P8240645.jpg
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    F1D2 wrote: »
    I don't know Tony but from what I have seen of his work, the wire is being temporarily held in place during the install.

    P8240645.jpg

    This photo, if you read my post, was me showing my dissapointment that Cape Horn had not provided a pull rope when they rigged the boat. These two wires are light wires installed at the factory, from inside the electronics box going down, rigged at the factory. Again, I was showing the fact that there was no pull wire. I disconnected one of these factory wires and used to pull a rope through as explained in my post.
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • F1D2F1D2 Posts: 331 Deckhand
    I was kinda bummed looking into the down pipes when I found no pull ropes, (whats up with that Horn?)
    P8240645.jpg

    I guess you kinda left this part out.

    "This photo was me showing my dissapointment that Cape Horn had not provided a pull rope when they rigged the boat", and you should have added the tie strap holding that the wire against the bolt and the hole can cause chaffing.

    Some of us don't do this for a living so we can't read between the lines.

    Sorry for my mistake in cyphering the pics and headings.
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    No worries at all bro! I realise I'll have some explaining to do here.
    I'll come back to this thread, but some of you may find this interesting. I just busted a thief red handed at my facility! Im glad he did'nt make any sudden offensive moves, I would hate to have to shoot a man. Check out the story I just posted in our local section-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?13325-I-just-busted-a-thief!!!!!-I-just-busted-a-thief!!!!
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • CaptTaterCaptTater Posts: 20,096 AG
    That's awesome on the thief catch, how old was he? Hopefully they are tougher on them up there than down here. Don't let them steal any coring out of that solid bottom Cape Horn either. Tell the Fabro fellas they don't know how to build a boat. They're new place is about 5 miles from where I grew up and my mother still lives, the old place was buy the dump.. pew. I can have my mother go tell them for you.
    I did not read the story but if you take tax payers money maybe you should be held to some standards.-Cyclist
    when we say the same thing about welfare recipients, you cry like a wounded buffalo Sopchoppy
    It's their money, they spend it how they like. Truth and honesty have nothing to do with it. - Mr Jr
    "“A radical is one who advocates sweeping changes in the existing laws and methods of government.” "
  • BoattronicsBoattronics Posts: 5,135 Admiral
    Hilarious Capt.Tater!

    Just so everyone knows, and if you would like to check for yourself, a quick call to Cape Horn, 1-850-626-2211, they will quickly answer and most likely the first person to pick up the phone will verify this-

    THERE IS NO FOAM OR CORING OF ANY KIND ON ANY CAPE HORN MODEL IN THE HULL BOTTOM, AND THERE HASN'T BEEN FOR OVER 12 YEARS!

    They are all solid fiberglass. So mutch for Dunk "Knowing exactly how Cape Horn boats are built" and "Jumping on my ***". I think an apology is in order big man.

    I'll be back this evening with more tips, and updates on the outfit!
    Tony Eden-
    Certified, licsensed and insured, Marine Electronics and rigging master, and "Dream boat" build winner with 20 years of professional experience.
    Boattronics.net
    Over 80 seperate, recent reviews from captains on this forum-
    http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?5295-Recent-Boattronics-reviews!
    Please call with any questions or a free estimate for the lowest price/best work available!
    904-545-1270
  • larrywittlarrywitt Posts: 2,628 Moderator
    Boatronics thanks again for a very interesting and informative post..
    better ask a question about the install procedure before we judge..
    let verbal diplomacy be the norm..
    larrywitt
  • chucks21capehorn+chucks21capehorn+ Posts: 518 Officer
    All I know the holes I have drilled into my 21'8" Capehorn Hull went into some of the hardest fiberglass I have ever Pre drilled. To sink the screws in I had to
    go in a ways and back out and go in a little deeper and back out. Then throw away the screw and start with a fresh one and repeat the process.
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