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ckeene9
Posts: 159 Deckhand
Time to upgrade body?
ckeene9
Posts: 159 Deckhand
I know this has been covered time and time again. I currently have a Nikon D40 (since Mid-2007) and would like to upgrade to something more. Really been getting outdoors a lot more recently and playing with time lapse (GoPro). My current lenses are:
AF-S Nikkor 55-300mm 1:4.5-5.6
AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1:4.5-5.6
AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1:1.8 (my favorite lens more recently)
Would like something that would allow me to grow some more but not break the bank too bad. I don't currently do any software editing but is something I would like to learn and start doing as well.
Here's some of my recent shots from Shenandoah National Park over Memorial Day weekend. These were taken with the 35mm lens.
AF-S Nikkor 55-300mm 1:4.5-5.6
AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1:4.5-5.6
AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1:1.8 (my favorite lens more recently)
Would like something that would allow me to grow some more but not break the bank too bad. I don't currently do any software editing but is something I would like to learn and start doing as well.
Here's some of my recent shots from Shenandoah National Park over Memorial Day weekend. These were taken with the 35mm lens.
Replies
We need a little more information.
My brother is not into cameras and owns a D40 that he shoves in my hand occasionally. There are some things about that camera I still love. Somehow Nikon hit a little sweet spot with that camera.
FYI: a couple of free editing software packages: ****, Zoner Photo Suite, Photoscape. I would suggest learning an editing package and learning to shoot in RAW (NEF) file format as a huge improvement in any photographer's life.
Also, If it were me I would buy glass until the body gave up or didn't do what I want it to do anymore.
Again, give us some more information and I am confident we can be helpful.
What glass would you recommend I add?
For some reason intervalometer implementation on the D40 is complex and clunky at best.
I have nearly worn out a D90 doing interval work with one of these >>>>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Opteka-Intervalometer-for-Nikon-D90-D3100-D5000-D7000-Digital-SLR-Cameras-/370620801262
I expect by the end of the year I wil have about 120K actuations through the D90 and it will be worn out. I won't fix it, I will just toss it.
There are still new D90's around that are a screaming deal. Also, the D7K had the intervalometer imbedded in the firmware. Personally, I do not like its implementation thus I use the intervalometer at the link above on my D7K, also.
IIRC the D3*** and, D5*** series cameras do not have firmware implemented intervalometer logic so an external unit is needed.
Further, the lower level bodies will not drive older Nikkor (or Nikon-compatible) lenses because there is no AF motor in the body.
Thus for this reason alone, I strongly urge people to step to the plate and purchase the D90, or D7*** series cameras, at a minimum.
Looking at your current lenses, it appears you are weak (OK, non existent) on the wide end. Something like the Tokina 12-24mm f/4 lens is fantastic. I use it all the time for video, star trails, landscape, time lapse............ Also, getting better glass to trade out for the focal lengths (the zooms) you already have would be a good step as neither is great. Personally, I wouldn't own either, but that is just me. Your 35mm f/1.8 should be close to superb ob your existing body. You will want to keep it, for sure.
Bottomline, get the D7K. However, if you can stretch just a touch more do the D7100. The IQ coming off the D7100 sensor and the high(er) ISO noise response is much better than the D7000. They D7100 has some decided short comings especially for the wildlife and sports shooter but from the little you have given me it seems to be a good fit for you (or the D90, D7000.)
One last option you may want to thing about is trying to find a D300, if you don't care about video. They are cheap now, and you can find deals on low actuation count bodies.
Also, if you want a few pointers on time lapse shoot me a PM.
Outdoor and wildlife are what I like to shoot. And now want to expand to time lapses and long exposures at night. Speaking of which what is the method to focus on the subject at night for long exposures?
How do the D300 compare to a D7000 or D7100 since video is not one of the things I'm interested in?
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
As far as focusing at night. Because of the subject matter I am interested in I MF to infinity and start shooting. Learn about zone focusing.
The 12-24 I talk about above and the 35mm you already have are both good night time lenses. FYI - most star trails you see today are done from dozens to hundreds of shots then assembled in a stacking software application. One shot star trails are a bit trickier.
Also, you will want a body with very good high ISO response, around ISO = 2000. Thus, I would get on of the most recent bodies meaning one of the D7*** bodies. The D300 is a fine to superb pro level body in DX format, but the firmware sort of falls apart above ISO = 1000-ish.
The photo below was shot on a D7K, 1600 ISO 7.25 minute exposure, f/11 fl = 16mm. Looking east from the ICW at MacArthur S.P., Palm Beach County. As you will see, the sensor got a little hot at 7 minutes so the image is a little noisy. If you can afford the D7100 is it reported clean to 3200-ish.
Also, I have looked around and saw that most of today's star trails are stacked images. Is there an easy to learn software for that or is more along the lines of Photoshop style of software?
You can lock the shutter open for long exposure. What was known as "Blub" in film days. When you are finished with the exposure, you jut close the shutter.
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
Bulb mode = you set the time on a remote intervalometer that you want. You need to learn the correct exposure on "some" exposure then (back calculate in your head) the exposure you want - double and double again.....until you get a good exposure. In bulb mode the exposure can be set for whatever you want.
Tripods and ball heads
On the "budget" end of tripods I would look at an Induro something like this. I used these tripod legs, hard, for five years, traveling all over Europe, the US and the Carribean with no issues until one of the legs snapped about four weeks ago. I could get it in a duffel, easy - trains, planes, backpack, blah, blah. >>>>>>>> http://www.indurogear.com/products/induro-adventure-akb-series-tripod-kits-akb1.aspx
You will want to change out the ball head at some point down the road.
If your budget is such try for a four piece leg - to pack smaller - but not as sturdy due to more pieces to deal with here for legs - but you will need a ball head >>>>>> http://www.indurogear.com/products/induro-alloy-at-series-8m-tripods-at114.aspx#specifications
Manfrotto makes decent legs you might look at those, too.
Buy more ball head than you think you will need. Nothing worse than the camera/lens moving during tightening or after you think it is set. I have "experimented" with lots of ball heads over the years and it has been a costly experiment. Ball heads cost money, at least the ones worth owning. My belief is that companies over report the loading a given ball head will "carry."
Thus, I have decided to own over-engineered ball heads stated to carry more load that reported. An example: if a ball head is reported to carry 22 lbs, buy one that carries 33 lbs. A decent ball head is highly machined to a fine tolerance and are thus expensive.
If you want to purchase once and be done with it, buy one of these. It will handle a pro body and a 300mm prime or 70-200.
Sit down before you click the link >>>>> http://www.markinsamerica.com/MA5/Q3E.php?req=Q3ELK
Here is a more moderately priced one that I trust, used for a while back and now hold in reserve as a back up, because I upgraded again >>> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/666436-REG/Vanguard_SBH_250_SBH_250_Ballhead.html
I am looking at one of these to handle the big bazooka lens on a big heavy tripod because I HATE using a gimbel >>>>>> http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=BH-55-LR&type=3&eq=&desc=BH-55-LR%3a-Full-sized-ballhead-with-LR&key=it
Stacking Software
Use this software and pay the man his $17. >>>>>> http://www.tawbaware.com/imgstack.htm
Also, anything against Nikon refurbished units? http://www.adorama.com/INKD7000R.html
Yep. Scientists and engineers don't use Macs. My suggestion is buy a PC.
I am sure you can install windows on your Mac.
That is a good deal on the refurb. Do that deal and get a lens, too since you are stealing the body......that 12-24 I talked about above.
Here is a 2 minute exposure I did, last week.
My first DSLR was refurbished and is still going strong. Check out Cameta Auctions on eBay for some buys. I have never had any problems with anything bought from them.
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
Grabbed the AKB1 tripod (will upgrade the ball head in a few months) and getting the refurbed D7000. Have to hold off on the lens for a month or two though.
Couple of questions. For the D7K what class SD card is recommended? I have a few class 10's in 16GB laying around, sufficient? And on the Tokina 12-24 would it be beneficial to get a 'II' version in case I wanted to use it on the D40?
Version II will focus on your D40, so yes, that is the right way to go. It is probably easier to find a II at this late date, also.
Which one would you rather have/use? The aperture on on the 11-16 looks appealing but will the more limited zoom be something to be concerned with?
Thanks, ordered the 12-24 today. Another question/problem I ran into tonight is, how do you capture the vibrant sky colors of a sunset/sunrise but still have good lighting in the foreground? Such as this picture I took tonight.
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield
Played with it some tonight and learning some of the different features.
Going up to DC for the 4th. Not sure which lens to bring for walking around the National Mall and doing fireworks pictures. I'm afraid the 12-24 will but too wide for some of the daytime stuff. Any insight?
Never seem more learned than the people you are with. Wear your learning like a pocket watch and keep it hidden. Do not pull it out to count the hours, but give the time when you are asked. --- Lord Chesterfield