Stator peak voltages (using DVA) as follows at stbd connector at power pack.
Brown - Brown/Yellow = 160v
Brown/White - Brown/Black = 129v
Orange - Orange/Black = 60v
Looks like one of the charge coils is toast...yes?
Would a low charge coil stop her from firing, or would it only affect the spark on one bank?
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
What are the service manual output specs? One weak charge coil can affect a bank of cylinders.
*****************************************
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat"
--- Travis McGee
According to the manual:
The power coil is within spec.
One charge coil is within spec and the other charge coil is not.
My expectation would be fire on one bank only, but I have no fire at all.
Update:
Ohmmeter test showed .553 K-Ohms on the charge coils and 55 Ohms on the power coil. Once I brushed up on my metric it's clear those readings are good for both charge coils and the power coil. So, can anything else, maybe the regulator/rectifier cause the low voltage output on the charge coil?
Last edited by loose_cannon; 01-11-2012 at 11:27 AM.
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
Aggggh, this thing is kicking my butt. Seems like everything I test gives me an out of spec reading, then I re-test it and I get a good, in spec reading.
I re-read the manual on the stator output tests and did them over, making sure my test leads are right where they are supposed to be and lo and behold I get good output readings from the stator. I'm going to pronounce the stator "good" and save myself $300 worth of cursing over a non-returnable electrical part.
I also tested the shift interrupter. It is open..no continuity when I press the plunger. The switch is bad. However, this should not prevent spark at start up...only during shifting when it shuts down one bank of cylinders. This switch is indeed bad, but it's not causing a no-spark condition on all six cylinders.
What about the optical eye. No test for this sensor, but it seems to be the only path left.
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
The eye and/or the pack could be the culprit. If it is the pack, replace the eye also.
The tester for the eye is over $400 to check a $75 electric eye part. The quickest test is just put in a new one.
Don't overlook a problem in the black/yellow "kill" circuit. When the key is turned off or the safety switch (kill switch) lanyard pulled, the black/yellow grounds out the capacitor inside the pack to stop the motor. That wire "contains" around 300-400 volts when the motor is running and can short out easily, especially in saltwater.
*****************************************
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat"
--- Travis McGee
I disconnected the port side power pack connector and still did not have spark. I then set my voltmeter to Ohms and checked the black/yellow to see if it was shorted to ground. It's not.
Power pack is new. Yeah, I jumped a little early on that.
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
Fixed.
I replaced the optical sensor this morning and the motor fired...on one bank only. Cylinders 1, 3 and 5 still had no spark. I checked the stop circuit and the shift interrupter and those were good. I then checked the stator output for the charge coil that powers the odd cylinders and that was good. I had already installed a brand new CDI power pack the day before yesterday, so I'm proceeding on the assumption that it is a good unit. Finally, I reinstall the original, 14-year-old power pack and "bam", she lights off instantly.
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
From your description the CDI pack is faulty or there is a connector problem. Call the 800# for CDI, they are great people with good support and warrany policies.
IF you get a rep named Clark Beard on the phone, tell him you know Bluewater Bill. He is a very sharp good-ole-boy from AL that has been with CDI almost since it first came about.
*****************************************
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat"
--- Travis McGee
She runs good with the old pack, so I have to believe the root cause was the optical sensor. I'll ship CDI the pack and let them repair, exhange or otherwise handle it under warranty. I like some of the features of the CDI, so I'd like to use it.
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
just when I thought this issue was resolved...
I sent the CDI pack back to the manufacturer and they said it tested “good”. CDI even went so far as to install in on an outboard just to make sure. They said it might be a charge coil on the stator going bad or perhaps a loose terminal at the stator-to-power pack connector. I measured good voltage coming off the stator’s charge coils, so I am reasonably certain it is working as designed. I will also check the integrity of the connector.
Why would the motor run fine with the original, 15-year-old pack, but only runs on the even cylinders with a brand new CDI pack?
Join Date: March 2001
Member #813
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